huntfisheat
Moderator
ok thanks for some off the info id like to see how u made the forend peace air u going to cheker the pistol grip
9.3X57 Mauser
- Thread starter Wyosmith
- Start date
I will get the checkering done someday soon I hope. The nose cap (if that's what you mean by forend piece) is made from 2 sheets of silver. The one that surrounds the muzzle is .062 thick and the semi-circle was cut out with a jewelers saw and fitted with a small 1/2 round file. I then bent a piece of .032 silver around in a U to come close to the bottom of the 1st piece and set it on a 3/8" steel plate. (Grease up the steel plate a bit with any grease over a coat of pencil lead.) So the "U" and the end piece were set in proper position. I dripped just enough soldering flux inside the "U" to let it run around the joint. Next take a piece of silver solder about 1/2" long and set it inside the 2 pieces to be joined so it's touching the joint.
Last just heat the steel from the bottom so the silver gets up to the flow point of the solider and when the solder melts it flows all around the joint.
Shut off the heat and go have a cup of coffee. Allow the steel and the nose cap to cool to room temp in about 15 minutes.
Shape the rear angle as you'd like and inlet it.
Secure with a small screw from the bottom.
Done!
Last just heat the steel from the bottom so the silver gets up to the flow point of the solider and when the solder melts it flows all around the joint.
Shut off the heat and go have a cup of coffee. Allow the steel and the nose cap to cool to room temp in about 15 minutes.
Shape the rear angle as you'd like and inlet it.
Secure with a small screw from the bottom.
Done!
Possum, I am about done with the wood finish now. I am going to do some modest engraving of the bottom metal tomorrow and then blue the rifle. I hope to have pictures of the finished rifle in about 5-7 days . I also will get checkering done on it but I have so much to do I probably will not get around to the checkering until mid winter. After I get it together I will zero the irons at 100 meters and then add the scope and zero it too. I hope to be ready to hunt with it in about a week. (I probably will not hunt with it until next year however. I think I'll use my 6.5 Mann/Scho and my 9.3X74R this year)
the possum
New member
Hurry up already! I want pics! 
Not 100% done. I still need to take it apart and do a trigger job, and I also lost the front locking screw, so I need to get a new one and put it in.
Then I must make an old style sliding buckle strap.
I will not likely get the checkering done until winter. But as of now it's ready to zero the sights at 100 meters and then the scope. I could have it ready to take hunting in a few days if I wish.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
Then I must make an old style sliding buckle strap.
I will not likely get the checkering done until winter. But as of now it's ready to zero the sights at 100 meters and then the scope. I could have it ready to take hunting in a few days if I wish.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickrhuntfisheat
Moderator
Looking nice wyo liberty tree have the slings you are looking for cheap like 10 bucks or so of go with a Montana for about 40
the possum
New member
Why did you choose to shape the stock so narrow behind the pistol grip? Just curious if there was a specific reason...
It's just a style that the Germans used now and then. The Brits used it a bit more, but you see it on some of the older guns now and then. I just like the look of it. Most times the toe line will run into the area at the back of the trigger guard but in this style it runs up through the center of the grip.
Other than the look of it, there is no advantage at all. It's just an older style. Rigby did this on some of their older guns, mostly single shots made on and some of the old Muzzleloaders too. There were some Sharps Rifles made in the 1880s here in the USA that used the same styling. It may lighten up the rifle, but only about 2 oz. so not enough to matter at all.
It makes for a very slender looking stock but the thin part where it meets the grip is actually about as thick than the grip itself. So it is not delicate. It just looks slim.
Other than the look of it, there is no advantage at all. It's just an older style. Rigby did this on some of their older guns, mostly single shots made on and some of the old Muzzleloaders too. There were some Sharps Rifles made in the 1880s here in the USA that used the same styling. It may lighten up the rifle, but only about 2 oz. so not enough to matter at all.
It makes for a very slender looking stock but the thin part where it meets the grip is actually about as thick than the grip itself. So it is not delicate. It just looks slim.
Dang.........at the end of this long dribbling thread, I still didn't get any reports from other hunters on kills with the 9.3X57
So I guess I'll have to go kill game and report back to you all.
May take me a few years to gather up enough critters to have an informed opinion however. I'll start making plans to have those reports ready as soon as I can.
So I guess I'll have to go kill game and report back to you all.
May take me a few years to gather up enough critters to have an informed opinion however. I'll start making plans to have those reports ready as soon as I can.
huntfisheat
Moderator
I have did very good on deer drops them quick like many cartridges bigger then 35 cal i also shot a 420 pound Russian boar at about 90 yards and was dead right there with i still have the rifle looking to build some in the future just in broke right now
huntfisheat
Moderator
Home loads made from 8x57 brass. Used old 300 grain hornady fn bullets i shoulder shoot all have exited all the way never recovered a bullet nice clean hole not much bigger then the bullet very little meat damage bones don't seem to stop it at all wish I still have the rifle was made by acky very early on i got it from John vanpatten before he died. He was po.ackeys shop forman when he was still in ny
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I am going to machine a sizing die to take .375" Bullets and bring them down to .366" in my press. I intend to try the Speer 235 grain bullets and see how well they work.
The Norma 232 grain bullets get very good reports, but are hard to find and quite expensive.
I expect if I don't like how the 235 Speer's do on game I can simply shoot them for fun and practice and kill game with the Norma's.
By taking a 7/8X14 grade 8 bolt and drilling a hole through it you can then ream about 3/4 of the hole to 375 and the last 1/4 to 366. You make a punch like a shell holder to push the bullets point upwards through the hole. The punch needs to be .364" The bullets are swedged down to .366" and pop out the top ready to load in any 9.3MM rifle.
250, 270 and 285 grain bullets are easily available now in .366, but the only "light weight" 9.3MM bullets I know of made today are the 232 Norma's and the 220 grain Fox bullets.
I have a 9.3X74R and I will soon have my own 9.3X62. I will use the 286 grain bullets in them. But for my 9.3X57 I was thinking the 220-235 grain range may be a bit better way to go. Nosler makes a 250 grain AccuBond too, but hard to get and expensive, so practice shooting can get costly.
The Norma 232 grain bullets get very good reports, but are hard to find and quite expensive.
I expect if I don't like how the 235 Speer's do on game I can simply shoot them for fun and practice and kill game with the Norma's.
By taking a 7/8X14 grade 8 bolt and drilling a hole through it you can then ream about 3/4 of the hole to 375 and the last 1/4 to 366. You make a punch like a shell holder to push the bullets point upwards through the hole. The punch needs to be .364" The bullets are swedged down to .366" and pop out the top ready to load in any 9.3MM rifle.
250, 270 and 285 grain bullets are easily available now in .366, but the only "light weight" 9.3MM bullets I know of made today are the 232 Norma's and the 220 grain Fox bullets.
I have a 9.3X74R and I will soon have my own 9.3X62. I will use the 286 grain bullets in them. But for my 9.3X57 I was thinking the 220-235 grain range may be a bit better way to go. Nosler makes a 250 grain AccuBond too, but hard to get and expensive, so practice shooting can get costly.
huntfisheat
Moderator
Hawk bullets make a 200 and a 235 he up to 320s very good bullets and can get custom jacket thickness for your x57 and go thicker for the x62 if needed