32 caliber bullets

M

Micro man

New member
I recently bought a 327 Federal mag. Revolver and want to reload for it. Bought some Starline brass in 32 Long and 32 H&R magnum and some MBC Hi- Tek bullets in 78 and 100 grains. Today when I consulted my reloading manuals I could not find any load data matching my bullet weight.

My question is, is there a rule of thumb that people use when loading bullets that are a little light or heavy for the published loading data? In my Lyman manual there is data for 75 grain bullets and 90 grain , which are both lighter than what I have.

Thank you for your time.

Micro man
 
R

rc

New member
https://www.handloadermagazine.com/32-h-r-magnum-pet-loads

I would not recommend using the 32 long brass in a 327 federal chamber. I've found 32 mag brass works fine in 327 but accuracy with the 32 long brass is much worse in my 327 federal GP100 compared with my 32 mag SP101.

327 is ear splitting and full power loads need something like AA#9, AA4100, W296, 2400 and other 410 shotshell class powders. I've never gotten factory speeds with the cannister powders I've tried but I don't really enjoy full power 327 Federal anyway.

Most of my 32 shooting is with much more moderate 32 mag loads using much faster powders.

The Lyman 115 grain 32-20 cast bullets are a good choice for heavy 32 magnum loads and light 327 level loads. Pushing loads faster than 1200fps I prefer jacketed bullets. I like the Hornady 100 grain XTP as best all around bullet for the caliber but anything with copper in it these days has gotten crazy expensive so cast is a good choice. 100 grains is a good weight.

W231 works great for target loads in 32 magnum but I load past book max. Even the data from the handloader link above is a bit conservative compared with my 231 loads so that data should be safe for you. A chronograph is very helpful when working up 32 mag and 327 loads since data is so limiting.

With the bullets you have, I would suggest starting with a powder like 231 or 700x. Unique or Universal Clays also works fine in many 32 loads. Let me know if you have any more specific questions.
 
4

44 AMP

Staff
I would suggest that in the future you change the order. Horse, then cart.

Find the data, THEN get the components listed in the data.

You might contact the people who made the bullets you have, and get their recommendations for data.

Good Luck.
 
F

FrankenMauser

New member
I don't know where I got the data for every load that I use, but if you check all of the sources, you should find what you're looking for, or close to it.
Accurate
Alliant
Hodgdon
Hornady
Speer
Sierra
Lyman (Did you check both books? Or just one? They have different data.)
Lee
And whatever else I am forgetting.

There are also dozens of threads on this forum and posted other places on the internet.
Be mindful and wary, but there is plenty of data to peruse and consider. The best stuff cites its original source.
 
R

rc

New member
In this market you get the cart when it is available and you wait for the horse to come along.
 
M

Marco Califo

New member
In this market you get the cart when it is available and you wait for the horse to come along.
Click to expand...
Then you have to buy the right cart to fit the horse you got sold.
I have 100 bottles of Instant Water to sell you. You just add water. $100.
 
R

rc

New member
Common Marco, how many times have you gotten a great deal on ammo or reloading components then buy the gun to use them:)
 
U

Unclenick

Staff
CAUTION: The following post (or a page linked to) includes or discusses loading data not covered by currently published sources of tested data for this cartridge (QuickLOAD or Gordon's Reloading Tool data is not professionally tested). USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The Firing Line, nor the staff of TFL assumes any liability for any damage or injury resulting from the use of this information.

Hodgdon's online data includes a 77-grain lead bullet in the 32 H&R magnum, and you can generally figure any bullet weight difference smaller than about 3 grains can be ignored so that data will all work with your coated 78-grain Hi-Tek. There is a lot of data for 98-grain wadcutters, but it will be light if that's not what your bullet is because the wadcutters take up so much space in the case, plus their loads are geared toward bull's-eye target shooting.

A rule of thumb is tough because of differences in bullet designs and seating depth locations. If you reduce the powder space by 10%, multiplying the powder charge by the square root of 0.9 will come close to keeping the pressure constant, but it won't be exact. It takes a little figuring to get that space difference right, but you can do it. But if the amount of added space taken up, plus the bullet weight being up by an equal percentage, then the powder charge reduction comes close to being inversely proportional to the weight difference, so multiply the charge by the 90-grain bullet's weight divided by the 100-grain bullet's weight.
 
M

Micro man

New member
Thanks to all concerning the proper order of carts and horses!
Also for the online reference information. Santa’s elf has been asking me for some more Christmas ideas so perhaps I’ll ask for more bullets AFTER consulting my reloading manuals. Happy holidays!
 
R

rc

New member
You likewise. I don't think you ever mentioned what gun and barrel length you are using? I would have loved a GP100 in 6 inch but Ruger never offered one in that length. I would love to have a single six 7.5.
 
M

Micro man

New member
The revolver in question is a Taurus with a 2 inch barrel. I bought it because I wanted to try shooting a 32 caliber pistol and trying to reload for its various length brass. If my bank account would have allowed, I would have bought a SP101 with a 3 inch barrel, which on Rutgers website is over $900. The Taurus was less than $300. Only time will tell if it’s a good buy or not.
 
L

Lurch37

New member
I have the Taurus in 327 as well and have about 150 rounds thru it, it seems to be doing just fine. I wanted something to go along with my Henry that's chambered in 327 also. Hopefully I can save enough to get a Ruger Single Seven someday.

As of now I'm only shooting 32H&R Mag reloads thru them since at the time I couldn't find any factory 327 Mag ammo or brass, so I bought 32 Mag brass. I'm still trying to find 327 brass but I have been able to scrounge up some factory loads.
 
R

rc

New member
Well out of a 2 inch gun I would think the 327 blast will be ear ringing brutal! I've had my 32 mag SP101 since the early 2000s before 327 was a thing and was hot rodding for it and posting about it back then. The 327 is a great round but I think it's best as a long barrel field revolver and rifle round in the same class as 30 carbine for coyote, plinking and self defense. While they won't be very accurate or eject, you can even use 32 ACP in a pinch for your Taurus belly gun. Both the GP100 and SP101 are very good guns. Mine both have 4 inch barrels. I just learned about the 631 kit guns and would love one of those and a Henry also but money can always be spent faster than earned:). https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1021308829
 
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Lurch37

New member
As an FYI, I received an alert about .327 magnum brass being in stock. A quick check on ammoseek.com and I had some ordered and on the way. Yay!
 
R

rc

New member
Expensive brass, but still cheaper than buying ammo to shoot up for the brass.
Let's do a quick cost analysis estimate.
Brass 27 cents
Primers 8 cents
Cast Bullets 10 cents
Powder 3 cents
Total to reload with all new components is almost 50 cents a shot.

So that's about $25 for a box of 50 rounds reloaded.

327 Federal Factory ammo at S&G is about $40 per box currently for 50 rounds while 20 round boxes of 32 mag run about $28 a box.

https://www.sgammo.com/product/327-...-american-eagle-85-grain-jacketed-soft-point-

Like 32 mag ammo, Factory 327 self defense ammo is $1.30 to $1.50 a shot!

Unlike 50 factory 9mm rounds for $15 a box, shooting the 327 in volume favors reloaded ammo since factory ammo is at $40 for the same number of rounds.
 
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