spacecoast
New member
OK, you guys convinced me. I guess I've been lucky so far. 
.223 novice, need a little guidance
- Thread starter spacecoast
- Start date
JeepHammer said:
Not exactly correct.
The 223 Remington and the 5.56 NATO actually run at the same pressures.
The difference is in the pressure testing devices and how pressures are determined.
CIP places their pressure transducer further forward than SAAMI, as a result CIP (NATO) rounds will read higher pressure than SAAMI tested rounds.
Testing a CIP round and a SAAMI round in the same test barrel either CIP or SAAMI will result in identical pressures.
Our Moderator Unclenick has explained this to us many times. Maybe he can chime in and state these facts better that I.
JeepHammer
Moderator
When I got away from RCBS heavy/sticky lube, I got away from hydraulic dents in the cases.
When I went to a 'Sprits' lube, spray can or pump bottle, and just shaking the cases in a cardboard box, it took a TON of time out of lubing the cases since shaking rolls them against each other and you don't miss getting one lubed.
Stuck cases are the PITS!
There are several ways to remove a stuck case, none I'd call 'Easy' or 'Quick'...
Mine usually involves swaping out dies and dealing with the stuck case/die in the garage where I can use a REALLY big hammer!
When I went to a 'Sprits' lube, spray can or pump bottle, and just shaking the cases in a cardboard box, it took a TON of time out of lubing the cases since shaking rolls them against each other and you don't miss getting one lubed.
Stuck cases are the PITS!
There are several ways to remove a stuck case, none I'd call 'Easy' or 'Quick'...
Mine usually involves swaping out dies and dealing with the stuck case/die in the garage where I can use a REALLY big hammer!
JeepHammer
Moderator
Steve, I started a conversation on the differences of .223 vs. 5.56 to get it off this page,
Find it here, https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6229828#post6229828
Along with a reply to your post.
Find it here, https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6229828#post6229828
Along with a reply to your post.
I spray lube in a plastic shoe box from walmart with home brew case lube.
You could use any spray lube.
Like mentioned above just spray 4 or 5 times and shake.
The home brew lube is 16 parts isopropyl alcohol to 1 part liquid lanolin.
pretty much the same as Dillon spray lube and the spray stuff from Cabelas.
Sprayed over 5000 223 cases and i have only used about 12 oz.
Used to go through 1 can of Hornady One shot for every 500 223.
Was still getting spots of galling on the sides of the brass.
Home brew fixed that.
Although the One Shot does seem to be better for larger cases like 270 Win.
You could use any spray lube.
Like mentioned above just spray 4 or 5 times and shake.
The home brew lube is 16 parts isopropyl alcohol to 1 part liquid lanolin.
pretty much the same as Dillon spray lube and the spray stuff from Cabelas.
Sprayed over 5000 223 cases and i have only used about 12 oz.
Used to go through 1 can of Hornady One shot for every 500 223.
Was still getting spots of galling on the sides of the brass.
Home brew fixed that.
Although the One Shot does seem to be better for larger cases like 270 Win.
JeepHammer
Moderator
I must use a lot less than some folks,
I used the aerosol stuff from Hornady, over 3,000 cases and it's not empty in the last week.
Not one single jam in the die, only one slightly dented case.
I did get a 'Reloading Buzz' from the fumes!
I used the aerosol stuff from Hornady, over 3,000 cases and it's not empty in the last week.
Not one single jam in the die, only one slightly dented case.
I did get a 'Reloading Buzz' from the fumes!
Last edited:
JeepHammer
Moderator
SpaceCoast,
The old Winchester standby propellants will usually show velocity increases in hot weather.
I like them, they are dirty, but the price is right and they flow through most charge throwers with no issues.
When the weather hits the 80s or 90s, or I leave ammo/mags in direct sun light, I expect to see a velocity increase.
Win 748 in particular.
Nothing dangerous, but just enough to drive the crono readings crazy and feel a little more recoil, and give prairie dogs a new lease on life...
I'm really fond of Varget, and lately Benchmark.
Some powder throwers don't like Benchmark, usually the charge bar type.
Pricy, but consistent and accurate when you want to punch some REALLY small groups in paper (or varmints!)
The old Winchester standby propellants will usually show velocity increases in hot weather.
I like them, they are dirty, but the price is right and they flow through most charge throwers with no issues.
When the weather hits the 80s or 90s, or I leave ammo/mags in direct sun light, I expect to see a velocity increase.
Win 748 in particular.
Nothing dangerous, but just enough to drive the crono readings crazy and feel a little more recoil, and give prairie dogs a new lease on life...
I'm really fond of Varget, and lately Benchmark.
Some powder throwers don't like Benchmark, usually the charge bar type.
Pricy, but consistent and accurate when you want to punch some REALLY small groups in paper (or varmints!)
spacecoast
New member
Good news on the reloads - we took them to the range yesterday and they shot fine - at least as well as the purchased ammo we also shot. No incidents at all, and the gun chambered and extracted everything perfectly.
JeepHammer
Moderator
Glad to hear it worked out for you!
I was afrade the thread got side railed.
Look for a 'Donut' primer pin strike,
The dent from the firing pin, with a 'Donut' welled up around the divot from the firing pin.
Donut is the firing pin hole in the bolt, this will be your first sign of overpressure.
If you don't find that 'Donut' then you are COOKING!
Proper cycling is a VERY good sign you are about right,
A VERY good sign!
Now, if you want a 'Generic' way to check velocity (Muzzle Feet Per Second),
Hit the 100 yard range, or better yet, 200 yard range if one is available,
Set up 2 identical targets.
Fire 5 or better yet, 10 round groups at each, aiming dead center each time.
One target with a QUALITY factory load,
The second with your reloads.
If there is a SIGNIFICANT change in velocity, the group CENTER will shift.
The SLOWER rounds will impact lower (more time for gravity to work on them when they are slower).
No significant change, no large velocity changes, and you are running with QUALITY factory ammo.
Now the obsession starts...
How tight of a group can I shoot?... Maybe if I tweek this or that just a little...?
I was afrade the thread got side railed.
Look for a 'Donut' primer pin strike,
The dent from the firing pin, with a 'Donut' welled up around the divot from the firing pin.
Donut is the firing pin hole in the bolt, this will be your first sign of overpressure.
If you don't find that 'Donut' then you are COOKING!
Proper cycling is a VERY good sign you are about right,
A VERY good sign!
Now, if you want a 'Generic' way to check velocity (Muzzle Feet Per Second),
Hit the 100 yard range, or better yet, 200 yard range if one is available,
Set up 2 identical targets.
Fire 5 or better yet, 10 round groups at each, aiming dead center each time.
One target with a QUALITY factory load,
The second with your reloads.
If there is a SIGNIFICANT change in velocity, the group CENTER will shift.
The SLOWER rounds will impact lower (more time for gravity to work on them when they are slower).
No significant change, no large velocity changes, and you are running with QUALITY factory ammo.
Now the obsession starts...
How tight of a group can I shoot?... Maybe if I tweek this or that just a little...?