22-250 rifle

tangolima

New member
Yeah that's why I have been reluctant to go hiking when hunters are around. I have friends who hunt. The stories they have told me make me reluctant to stay in the same county when they are out with their rifles locked and loaded.

There are too many "I shouldn't have done it but I did it anyway".

-TL

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Rothdel

New member
Anyone have experience with the Savage 110 Apex Hunter XP left hand model? Saw one at the LGS and being a lefty snatched since you don't see too many lefty bolt guns.

Never owned a savage before and this is the only "budget" bolt gun I've owner other than a Ruger American in 7.62X39 which I love.
 

Skans

Active member
I tried adjusting the dies, to the extent they could be. I suppose it could have been the rifle's chamber. I did notice that the shoulder on the cartridge bulged out a bit - I just never seemed to be able to get the dies to resize the case without crushing it.

Heck, this was decades ago - I sold the rifle and the reloading equipment a long time ago. I just remember how much trouble I had trying to reload for that particular rifle. No doubt, I was doing SOMETHING wrong - I just never could figure out what.
 

44 AMP

Staff
The .22-250 was a wildcat cartridge developed beginning in the 1920s. By the later 1930s there were several versions and names. All based on the .250 Savage case there were variations in case length and shoulder angles.

Remington standardized the round about 1965 (or 67 according to one book I have) and since then few, if any rifles have been made with different chambers but its possible some have been.

My first .22-250 was a custom Mauser build by a local gunsmith, who just happened to chamber it for the version Remington adopted. Never should have sold that rifle...:(

My current .22-250 is a Winchester M70 varmint, I'm happy with it, and have zero issues loading for it with RCBS dies since I got it in the 80s.

Your old issue with not being able to get the rounds "right" might have been because either your rifle or your dies, or possibly both were cut to slightly different standards. Since they're long gone now, the point is moot.
 

Picher

New member
I've had a couple of .22-250s since about 1965 and both have been super-accurate. The second one contributed to winning about 30 frozen turkeys at various competitions from Arnold Trail Range to Damariscotta and others.
 

stagpanther

New member
I've had a couple of .22-250s since about 1965 and both have been super-accurate. The second one contributed to winning about 30 frozen turkeys at various competitions from Arnold Trail Range to Damariscotta and others.
I live on Mt Desert Island and am interested in trying some comps in Maine (especially if they are in the midcoast area)--is there a source listing for comps in Maine?
 

Picher

New member
The last one I attended was at a F&G in Boothbay, not far from the Train Museum. I could still be competitive, but nearly 80, just don't feel like doing it much anymore.
 

tangolima

New member
Moving ahead with .243 win. Ordered the upper with easter 20% off discount. The lower is a PSA blem. All very affordable. Lower parts kit, stock & buffer tube etc, and decent 2 stage trigger are all with discounts. Coming along.

Got rcbs die set too. Great price on Amazon. Got some .308 brass to try conversion.

-TL

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44 AMP

Staff
Get .243 brass. It's worth it in the long run.

Unless there is no other choice, or you enjoy the time and work that might be needed, trimming, turning or reaming, and then there's the potential of differing case capacity with GI brass vs commercial, nothing that can't be overcome, just more work than just buying .243 brass to start with.

Or buy .243 ammo. Yes there are still shortages but its not "unobtainium".
 

tangolima

New member
Found brass and bullets from the same vendor to justify the shipping. Will see. Hornady brass $0.70 apiece is a bit high. But not bad.

-TL

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taylorce1

New member
Powder Valley has new Starline brass for $0.56 each and a good selection of .243 bullets. Depending on what bullet you're wanting to shoot you could of had brass and bullets for around $0.80-1.00 per round. Ammoseek.com has a good search for reloading components and that's how I found the Starline.

Another thing I've had success with is buying loaded ammunition at auction. When I started shooting 6mm Creedmoor and .308 Win I was able to buy several hundred rounds at $1.00 a round or less. The 6mm Creedmoor I bought two cases (400 rnds) of Hornady Black 105 grain and a case (200 rnds) of 95 grain LRX Barnes for $1 per round delivered. .308 I was able to get a case of PPU 150 grain for $140 and a case of Barnes 135 grain TTSX for $225. All way cheaper than I could buy all the components to load my own.

I'm sure Hornady makes good brass and it'll work well for you. I don't know what bullet you're using, or your barrel twist. However, Blue-collar Reloading has an awesome deal on 105 grain Barnes Match Burner bullet. Their Hornady brass is a little more expensive, enough so that I'd just buy the Lapua brass at $1.25 ea.
 

tangolima

New member
Thanks for info. After comparison, I will still stick with bebee from Utah for brass and bullets. Their prices are better.

I tend not to buy loaded ammo. Surely it provides the brass and comes with bullets and powder, but the latter don't help subsequent load development much.

-TL

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taylorce1

New member
tangolima said:
I tend not to buy loaded ammo. Surely it provides the brass and comes with bullets and powder, but the latter don't help subsequent load development much.

It isn't ideal, I will agree. However, it could work out that your rifle likes that factory load. My rifle happen to like the Barnes Vor-TX ammunition very well. I then just try to duplicate that load with my hand loads.

Now that PPU ammo is horrible in my .308, but I let people shoot steel at with it suppressed. I thought about pulling the bullets and dumping the powder in the garden, and using the bullets in my blackout. Then working up loads with the primed brass, Varget, and better bullets, but it'll probably be more accurate with 1X brass anyway.
 

44 AMP

Staff
Buying loaded ammo to get the brass is not my first choice, but I've done it, and will do it, if I can't get "decent" brass easily any other way.

I'm not much of an order online guy. Probably because I got into guns & reloading long before there was any online to order from. Components were one of the main reasons I haunted gunshows back in the pre-shortage, pre-panicdemic days when we had them.

I have guns (or had) where buying loaded ammo was the only sure and easy way to get brass for reloading. Some calibers don't have a large reloading following and finding quantities of new brass is...sporadic. Finding some loaded ammo is common.

.243 is a piece of cake in that dept. While not quite as common as dirt (and no where near as cheap) there's plenty around. No, buying loaded ammo doesn't help with future load development, other than providing the cases to load, BUT it does do that.

And, it does two other things. It gives you a "baseline" to reference against to see if you can make your ammo as good, or better than the factory stuff.

And the other thing, not too important with many calibers but important in a couple, and that is, YOU KNOW how many times the brass has been fired, and what it was fired from.

Again, not that big a deal in .243, but it is for some of what I have. I gave up on "once fired" brass completely in .303 British. I also avoid "modern" milsurp 7.62x51 brass. Its often fired machine gun ammo, and can take more work to reload even when the cases haven't swollen too much.

Enjoy your .243, its a good round for lots of things, and a great round for a few things. Do get at least one box of factory ammo, to give you a standard to compare your loads against. Velocity, accuracy and function in your rifle.

As I'm sure you're well aware, semi autos can impose limits which manual repeaters can often ignore.

Good Luck, have fun, be safe!
(not in that order!:D)
 

tangolima

New member
Yeah I may monkey with the gas block to turn it into a straight pull. I live behind enemy line in California. I will turn it back on when we regain our rights.

At least on GRT, MV goes up by a few percent if I shut the gas. I look for speed at the muzzle not in cycling, so works out.

-TL

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44 AMP

Staff
I look for speed at the muzzle not in cycling, so works out.

I didn't see where you gave the barrel length of the upper you ordered.

Just curious, you're not looking for speed out of one of the short barrels are you?
 

44 AMP

Staff
24" makes it "real" rifle, good to hear it was your choice.

Personally, I think that turning a .243 into a short barrel CQB carbine is a waste of potential. :D
 

tangolima

New member
Oh I already a few of those, although it is my thing. PTR91 in .308 with 16" barrel is one.

-TL

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