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x-Treme load manual
- Thread starter 308Loader
- Start date
jetinteriorguy
New member
Interesting to notice they have always recommended not loading beyond 1200fps but they have .357 mag data showing loads in excess of 1500fps.
FoghornLeghorn
New member
Interesting to notice they have always recommended not loading beyond 1200fps but they have .357 mag data showing loads in excess of 1500fps.
They have two categories of plated bullets. Anything over 1200 fps they recommend .......
Any velocities over 1200 FPS we recommend either our Heavy Plate Concave Base or Hollow Point products for superior accuracy.
jetinteriorguy
New member
I know they state that on the website and I’ve used them accordingly, but as far as I have looked they don’t state that in the actual load data in the manual. They don’t differentiate bullet type other than weight and shape in the load manual.
FoghornLeghorn
New member
Uh, well, if the velocity of the round is over 1200 fps ................
Don Fischer
New member
They have two categories of plated bullets. Anything over 1200 fps they recommend .......
Never seen the manual but if this is in there you can read it and heed it or do as you please and maybe suffer the consequences! I'm pretty sure if this is in there they didn't write it just to take up space!
For the record, I loaded up twenty 45 ACP cases with 200gr RN and small primers at the recommended load for tight group and was pleased. RI-1911 functioned flawlessly. Will need to chrono them to compare estimated velocity and consistency. Again I think it is nice that a plated bullet company took the time to put together basic load data for their bullets. Have seen many posts here where plated VS jacketed VS cast was the root of the question.
jetinteriorguy
New member
I’m merely pointing out a discrepancy that should have been included in the manual as well as on the website. A first time user of their products may miss this information and wonder why things aren’t going the way they should when going by the manual.Uh, well, if the velocity of the round is over 1200 fps ................
From their site
"Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp
Any velocities over 1200 FPS we recommend either our Heavy Plate Concave Base or Hollow Point products for superior accuracy. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp"
To me thus sounds like all plated bullets are good up to 1500fps, but may not be accurate if your over 1200 with standard plated.
"Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp
Any velocities over 1200 FPS we recommend either our Heavy Plate Concave Base or Hollow Point products for superior accuracy. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp"
To me thus sounds like all plated bullets are good up to 1500fps, but may not be accurate if your over 1200 with standard plated.
jetinteriorguy
New member
I have run the standard plated over 1200fps through my Henry .357 and accuracy wise out to fifty yds seemed fine, but it took me a week to clean the copper buildup out of my barrel. I have run Berry’s heavy plated and Xtreme heavy plated over 1400fps in the same rifle with only minor copper buildup similar to what a jacketed bullet would do.
very interesting. I use the Bore tech Eliminator bore cleaner which works on copper. I also have their dedicated copper remover. The Eliminator has done a great job as long as you let it sit for about 1hr with heavy copper fouling. Have not had a chance or needed to use the dedicated copper remover yet.I have run the standard plated over 1200fps through my Henry .357 and accuracy wise out to fifty yds seemed fine, but it took me a week to clean the copper buildup out of my barrel. I have run Berry’s heavy plated and Xtreme heavy plated over 1400fps in the same rifle with only minor copper buildup similar to what a jacketed bullet would do.
jetinteriorguy
New member
I used Shooters Choice copper remover. It took several applications over about a week to get it all out.
You'll find the Bore Tech dramatically faster than either ammoniated or ammonium oleate-based cleaners. It uses a chelating compound like EDTA to do the job.
The fastest copper remover I've encountered is KG-12, which seems to combine chelating and a small amount of ammonia. But it has two drawbacks. One is that it doesn't turn blue or green, so you can't tell by its color when the cleaning is done. You want to have a borescope to check or you want to follow up with another cleaner that changes color to prove the copper is gone. Second, a couple of folks have said it is hard on some finishes, so you want to test it on a hidden spot somewhere. But man, it eats copper fast. Wet a bore with it and plug the ends and come back half an hour later. Only the worst fouling will need any more time.
The fastest copper remover I've encountered is KG-12, which seems to combine chelating and a small amount of ammonia. But it has two drawbacks. One is that it doesn't turn blue or green, so you can't tell by its color when the cleaning is done. You want to have a borescope to check or you want to follow up with another cleaner that changes color to prove the copper is gone. Second, a couple of folks have said it is hard on some finishes, so you want to test it on a hidden spot somewhere. But man, it eats copper fast. Wet a bore with it and plug the ends and come back half an hour later. Only the worst fouling will need any more time.
jetinteriorguy
New member
Good to know, thanks UN.You'll find the Bore Tech dramatically faster than either ammoniated or ammonium oleate-based cleaners. It uses a chelating compound like EDTA to do the job.
The fastest copper remover I've encountered is KG-12, which seems to combine chelating and a small amount of ammonia. But it has two drawbacks. One is that it doesn't turn blue or green, so you can't tell by its color when the cleaning is done. You want to have a borescope to check or you want to follow up with another cleaner that changes color to prove the copper is gone. Second, a couple of folks have said it is hard on some finishes, so you want to test it on a hidden spot somewhere. But man, it eats copper fast. Wet a bore with it and plug the ends and come back half an hour later. Only the worst fouling will need any more time.