working up loads

[STEVE M]

In what order do you try new things when working up a new load. Say for

instance you bought a rifle in a new caliber. You have many bullet weights

(from many companies). You have 10-15 listed powders to try in weight

variances of 5 to 10 grains (start to max.) 4 or 5 good primer brands. Not to

mention TTL, or cartridge OAL ect.

So what order to you guys start changing things to come up with the best

load? Do you start with powders then bullet weights then primers? Then go

into over all lenght?

Just curious what others procedures are in this.

 

[jclaude]

Load Work Up

I typically start with the bullet selection first and I typically use Sierra bullets. Maybe 2 or 3 different weights, but I usually have a pretty good idea, based on research and intended purpose, what weight and bullet design I want to work with. Once I have narrowed down the bullet selection, I start dealing with powders. The type of powder and charge can't be completely isolated from the bullet selection. They can be very closely inter-related. Like the number of different bullets you work with, keep the number of varieties down to a reasonable level.

Primers: I use Federal almost exclusively.

Cases: Don't really have a favorite case manufacturer, although I consider Winchester cases to be very good.
I do like to use military surplus cases for military type rifles because they are of a little heavier construction (Robust) that their commercial counterparts.

I think you need to minimize the number of variables as much as you can, and use a slow, methodical process for working up your loads. Test fire everything you load and keep a good log of what you have done.

I frequently refer back to loading log entries that I recorded over 35 years ago when working with new load development.

 

[dodgestdshift]

I start with bullets. Since the bullet has to be matched to the job, it is in my opinion the most important decision. Next get the manual from the company that supplies that bullet. They will give you a list of several loads of differing powders. I usually try powders in the following order:

1) Do I have it on hand? If so and it gives a reasonable velocity (the manual will give the starting and max velocity), I start there.

2) If not, then I take the powder that delivers the highest velocity with safe loads, since it probably gives equivalent velocities with lower pressure.

Start with the published starting load, and work up till the accuracy is what you want (not necessarily the highest velocity listed).

 

[918v]

I use Quickload to figure out the combo that will give me 100% load density with 100% combustion. This narrows the list to 2 or 3 powders. I work-up a load starting 1-2 grains short of max with each of the primer brands. One or two will shoot similar groups. I'll take a nickle plated primer cup over a plain brass one if both shoot the same (stupid, I know). I seat the bullet into the lands, unless I plan to shoot from the magazine, in which case I load to magazine length. Good loads can be had using either OAL. I have foud that bullets with thin jackets shoot more accurately than bullets with thick jackets, sometimes 300% better. Bullet choice depends on the application.

 

[rnovi]

I think the first question you need to ask is "what exactly are you trying to achieve?"

I have a .350 RMag that I load. The first thing I wanted was a lightweight plinker/light hunter...the second thing I wanted was a middleweight hunting load...third, a heavyweight hunter.

Now, admitedly, the .350RMag is a limited cartridge. There are only about 10 common bullets made. 2x 180's, 3x 200's, 2x 225's, and 2x 250's. After them you get into the Barnes X bullets, the Speer Trophy bonded, and NorthFork bullets. Stuff I really don't want to shoot if I don't have to (a buck a bullet hurts!)

So I pick the bullet/s I want to start with:

180 gr. Hornady pointed soft point.
200 gr. Remington CoreLokt.

For powders, IMR is always a good starting point. I prefer to start with a powder that is "middle of the road" in terms of powder burn rates. IMR 4895 is dead center in the middle of the rifle burn rates and is just about as universal a rifle powder as it gets. It's much like Unique in pistol cartridges. It'll do a bit of everything.

I then try a long burn spherical powder as my second choice. Hodgdon H380 was my second choice by coinflip. Slow burning sphericals tend to be extremely consistent. Win 748 has a good rep as well.

Primers? I reach for Federal. I don't bother with anything else.

I seat to either the canlure or maximum recommended "book length". In this case the .350 RM is a 2.800" max length...

Next thing I do is load three rounds of each load. I do this is in "10 load indexing".

Example: for the 180 gr. bullet, H380 loads from 54 grains to 63 grains: a difference of 10 grains. 10/10 = 1 grain differences. So I load three rounds each of 54, 55, 56, 57, etc.

IF the load was from, say, 56-60 grains, I'd load 10 loads in 1/2 grain increments.

Go out and test for accuracy and pressure signs. If I see any accuracy trending (ie: grain loads from x to y are more consistent than other loads) I retest only around the accuracy trend in tighter margins.

I am after 3/4" groups with the .350RM at 100 yards. I've found that 4895 and H380 deliver the accuracy and deliver the punch I want.

Anything beyond that is just "foolin around"

 

[MrGee]

I think the new purchase of a rifle is where you start, used
rifle or a new rifle ? will have a different approach , starting w/ the new one I would have to know the barrel length an its twist rate.. if short barrel is on the action there would be no real reason to use full loads, powder burning after bullet leaves the barrel doesn't help in any way.. the twist rate is important to know, it will tell which basic weight bullet to start with ..
with all the powders, primers an bullet weights MrX says he has on hand, I would think he has as many loading manuals if you open to the starting page [all his manuals] for a given caliber MrX will see test results .. such as firearm used barrel length an twist , primer used an all the different bullets weights an brands mention .. at least Lyman an Sierra manuals do.... since MrX has all these components on hand I'd have to believe he already has some reloading experience in the field .. with that said I would start with a midrange powder or a proven one that works with that caliber .. Lyman gives an accuracy load with each weight bullet [#48 does] an over all length,, I already know which bullet I will start with do the twist rate .. next would be all the same brand cases trimmed to the same length , primed with what ever brand primer you have [ I prefer GM210m] CCI Feds Rems .. 918V uses about the same idea I use except I only use one type powder an one type bullet for my 1st test .. pick a caliber say .. .243 Remington 700 series
26" -1-9 twist .. how I would start 100gr bullet .. max load says
45gr of IMR 4350 .. I'd set my scale to 43.4rs load 5 .. then 43.8 load 5, 44.2 " 44.6""" 45. all loaded an ready to... when I got to finally shoot these loads I'd be looking for signs of pressure an grouping... then I would move on to some other different loading formula if nothing here was satisfying when I find a good group I like I may then start moving the bullet in or out further in the case Maybe change primers or abullet brand an weight etc. etc. But wait I said new gun....... the first thing before using my reloads would be to buy two or three boxes of factory loads to sight in an break in the barrel how ever you choice to do that.... if it was the used rifle MrX purchased you may illuminate that part ....
this is how I would start to find away to get the most accuracy I could from MrX's new purchase... there many other ways an ideas
on how to... just a basic appoach i use ... using the loading data in these newer versions manuals would most likely give a head start
.. read the manuals is the best place to start ...

 

[STEVE M]

rnovi,

In hunting loads are you more interested in accuracy or velocity

first? I've always tried to get my velocity up first (appropriate for the

cartridge) and them work on accuracy. Never sure if I was doing any of this

in the right (or quickest) order though, hence this post.

 

[dodge]

I first pick a bullet that will work for the job that I intend to use the rifle for. Then I look in my loading manuals and pick out the top 2 or 3 powders that give the top velocitites. Then look to see if I have it on hand. I usually will load a couple of steps down from max to start and then work from there. From my experince I have found that usually with my loads I'm one step down from max. This gives me the accuracy and velocity that I want for the job at hand.