Winchester Gun Safe - big problem

kraigwy

New member
I have a large Winchester gun safe. Digital style.

It quit. I thought it may be the battery, (though its not that old) so I replaced the battery. it still don't work.

Put the battery in, it lights up, showing its got powder and then the lights fade (per normal) but when I punch in the code its there is a light that is suppose to flash each time you hit a button.

It doesn't, and I cant get the safe open.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

kraigwy

New member
Never mind. I called Winchester and she set me straight. There is a time penalty if you try the wrong combo too many times. I think I must have done that.

Also there is a time penalty when changing the battery. Wait a few minutes and everything works/


Thanks/
 

ShootistPRS

New member
find out who made the safe and how to open it without the electronics.
or
Find a lock smith that is willing to open the safe for you.
and
never buy electronic safes again. The batteries fail and if you put the battery in backwards you kill the electronics.
 

2123

New member
My American Security Products safe originally came with the typical dial lock.

Used it that way for quite a few years, then I decided to go with an electronic keypad. Had a locksmith sell me the keypad and install it.

That was years ago. I've never had any kind of an issue with it, and the electronic keypad gets me into my safe in under 2 seconds.

I keep track of how old the two 9V batteries are that power it. I change them out religiously. I only buy Energizer batteries.

And no, it wasn't about how fast I could get into my safe with an elec. keypad. I just got damn tired of not spinning the dial exactly right, only to find out that I had to start all over again. :mad:
 

Dufus

New member
The batteries fail and if you put the battery in backwards you kill the electronics.

One would have to be persistent to install a 9 volt battery backwards.

There is a time penalty if you try the wrong combo too many times. I think I must have done that.

There is an explanation of this benefit in the owners manual.
 

OcelotZ3

New member
Most (all?) safes with electronic locks usually have a key backup. You remove the electronic faceplate and the key hole is behind it (or behind the battery pack). If they didn't, then an electrical failure would permanently lock you out.
 
National Security here. Had a choice. Dial or electric? Ordered the dial.
Although a old pal of mine did have a similar problem with his Browning as you are having. I don't know what was done to my old friends safe to resolve. But it was eventually fixed.
 

Texas45

New member
I recently purchased a gun storage safe and I purposely looked for dial style as to avoid any issues like OP and or a complete failure.
Many do not have a key option.
I have to grab my readers and takes about 30 sec to spin properly and open her up.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Gbro

New member
Very glad you got into your safe!
I have a B.O. Greenleaf Model 6120 electronic lock.
I had trouble with it for months and was blaming it on my mild dyslexia and would have to open the safe the day before i planned on using a gun because sometimes it took 30 or more min for me to open the thing.
And i was thinking as you now believe, in that the lock would not let me enter the wrong code more than ?? time and then go into a delay.
However i discovered that my Model (6120) will "Always open on the "Master Code"".
I had owned the lock past the warranty and Sargent Greenleaf would not replace it.
Of course now i have NO confidence in electronic locks and replaced it with a dial lock that i do not like because dyslexia affects dialing too,
Now may i add,,,???
When setting a combination on a dial lock there is a number that was listed in the instructions to stay away from apparently because mechanically it can confuse the metal parts, :rolleyes: well there are more than 1 troublesome sequences and guess who discovered the other one??
And how do i know there are not 3 bad sequences, because i would have found the 3rd, That's how! :eek:
To qualify that statement;
A few years back before i had my plow truck i had to shovel out the shooting position at the spot i do qualification shoots for my permit to carry classes.
So the evening before a winter class i set about shoveling through the plow berm and struck a large chunk of concrete in the berm, so i moved about 6 ft and dug in again hitting another chunk so i mover again and hit a third peice! Totally frustrated i set up on the driving lane and had to walk through the deep snow the 21 ft to my target.
In the spring i was interested in seeing how big a mess was at my shooting spot and found that there were only "3" chunks there!!Today my plow easily clears out the whole spot with plenty of parking for my small classes.

And if any of you are not aware of it, if your safe is at all worth its value it will have a "Re-Locker" and you could trip it if any meddling is done and then the safe may very well have to be Pealed to enter!
 

natman

New member
One would have to be persistent to install a 9 volt battery backwards.

Installing a 9v permanently reversed is indeed difficult.

Alas, temporarily touching the contacts with the polarity reversed is all too easy. Sure it won't install correctly reversed, but by then whatever damage reversed polarity will cause is already done.
 
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