Win Model 100

[CarJunkieLS1]

Yesterday, I picked up a .308 Winchester Model 100. It is just the regular model and not the carbine. I must say that this rifle is very clean and definitely hasn't been shot very much. I checked the serial # and it was made in 1962 it's my FIRST Pre-64 rifle I got this rifle from a guy who inherited it from his grandfather when he passed away. He told me he knew nothing about guns and din't have a use for them and couldn't even own a gun. I did run the serial # at the local PD and it came up clear so I jumped on it.

It still has the front sight hood and has ZERO rust anywhere. The bore is "bright" and rifling is very "sharp." It had a Savage 2.5x20 scope mounted so I swapped it out for a Nikon Buckmaster 3-9x40 that I had collecting dust in the closet.

I don't expect tack driving accuracy, but I believe if I can get 1-1.5 inch groups w/ handloads I'll be happy. I won't be "hot rodding" this rifle either. Any people on here have experience with these particular rifles. I do know about the recall and will be checking on that before I shoot it.

 

[William T. Watts]

Sometime auto's are finicky with handloads especially when it comes to sizing fired brass, if it were me this a common rifle to encounter if you haven't loaded for an auto before it can be tricky. I would recommend factory R-P or W-W ammunition and very well could be saving your self a headache.. If you choose to load the first item I would buy would be a L.E. Wilson cartridge case gauge to use to set up your sizing die. If you move the shoulder back too far your asking for trouble plus you can compare a new unfired round to your resized case.. It helps if your resized case fits your chamber.. William

 

[CarJunkieLS1]

Thanks for the tips William. The only semi-autos I have loaded for have been AR-15's. I do load for several other bolt actions though. I will be shoot factory fodder first to get an accuracy baseline and then I'll reload after that. I did take some FL sized .308 brass tonight and they all dropped in the chamber and the bolt locked up and extracted perfectly. I was told to try IMR 4064 and IMR 8208 for reliable cycling.

 

[Art Eatman]

It probably wouldn't hurt to use a small-base die when full-length resizing.

My uncle had one; loved it. 1.5 MOA shouldn't be difficult.

I've done far more '06 shooting than .308. Many sub-MOA groups with Sierra 150-grain soft points.

There was a recall for a firing pin breakage problem, although it was not frequent. I'm not sure, but it's worth a contact effort to see if you can still get one. Probably less hassle for a local gunsmith to do the replacement, compared to sending it back to Winchester (if they still do the work).

 

[Drm50]

Win. M-100s

I have owned several Win 100s. One of first deer rifles I bought when I was a
kid was a 742c Rem. 30/06. Worst excuse for a rifle I ever owned. Anyway I
thought I needed a auto loader so I got Win.100 in 308. I never had any trouble
with it and it shot very well. Had no trouble with hand loads, the 742 had plenty.
I had 4x scope on it, would shot1 1/2" all day long. Used 150 gr. bullets and
IMR-4895. About same time I got a 243, it preformed as well as 308. I have
never owned one of the newer(post 64) 100s, I guess they had some issues, but
the old ones never let me down. You got a nice deer rifle!

 

[bamaranger]

no way

I can't imagine selling my grand dad's guns.

 

[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

Model 100 has collectors value. May want to consider that. Kept in a deliberate like new condition which no doubt is appealing to the eye only up's its resale worth. Shooting for fun & giggles could break a eternal part or its clip spring as the rifle is indeed 50 plus years old upon its arrival to you. If you have the urge to shoot it some. No problem. Consider doing so in a moderate way is all.

Tip: never discard its original clip for any reason as they are factory tuned (bent) for its utmost reliability in that particular rifle. If its spring does happen to break. Buy a replacement clip and change out their springs only. I myself have a Rem 742 06 Carbine that has suffered a few broken & weak clip springs over the years. Only the springs have been replaced in its original factory installed clip. Since 1968 that rifle has never skipped a beat in its firing using Factory Rem ammo or my hand-loads in their use of 30-31. That rifles been like the Eveready bunny. It just keeps bang bang'ing away.


If you care to see one in like new shape and its current auction selling price check out the link.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=463280504

 

[Picher]

I absolutely love the Model 100's feel and looks. It's a great hunting rifle.

After sighting in several for customers and reading about the problem, I noticed that there are literally two kinds of Model 100...the ones that shoot 1 1/2 MOA groups and the ones that shoot more like 4 MOA. That has been a problem that didn't affect Model 88s, despite the similarity and bedding system.

Hopefully, you have one of the good ones!

 

[natman]

no way
I can't imagine selling my grand dad's guns.

I understand because I feel exactly the same way. However in this case overriding circumstances apply.:

[The seller] told me he knew nothing about guns and didn't have a use for them and couldn't even own a gun.

 

[CarJunkieLS1]

Thanks guys for all the advice. I do plan on hunting with it ,but it will only be on nice weather days and a few times a year. I've got other "work horses" for regular use. I do plan on shooting but will be minimal as I want to keep it in like new and working condition.

And yeah I wouldn't sell my grandfathers gun either, but he said he couldn't own a gun. I didn't ask why, but I'd guess some sort of criminal issue.

I looked at the link and that is a REDICULOUS bid on that rifle. Its a post 64 and .308 the most common variant. I have a pre-64 which is more desireable I've seen .284 Win Model 100's go for less than that.

 

[CarJunkieLS1]

Just got off the phone w/ Winchester and it has NOT had the recall done. Looks like it will be a while till I can shoot it. At least it will be safe when I do. That's what's important.

 

[Picher]

As I remember, the problem is that when the firing pin breaks, the rifle sometimes goes full auto. You could shoot it at the range; just load one round.

 

[wachtelhund1]

I have several Winchester 100's in .308. One is a 100 carbine with an old NIkon 4X40 scope which I use every deer season, even though I have plenty of newer guns to choose from. I never have a problem with it and it shoots 1.5" groups. I have glassed bedded the rifle and action. I completely strip it and clean it before and after each deer season, even if I don't fire it. Some 100's will jam. They jam for mainly two reasons, they are either dirty or the extractor spring has weakened over time; causing the extractor to drop the case before the ejector can kick it out of the receiver. Clean and or replaced the extractor spring and you are good to go. Those 100's that shoot 4" groups can be tightened up by glass bedding the rifle and action. The bedding has to be done in four steps. Back in 2008, I posted a re-print of glass bedding instruction for the Winchester 100; see thread http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273781

I have a H&K 630 and two AR's in .223 rem, but would really love to have a .223 in a Winchester 100 carbine. I just love the lines and handling of the 100's

Oh! and handloads, 165 grain soft points and 4064 powder.