Why get a 20 gauge?

Dave McC

Staff In Memoriam
Fashion governs sporting guns as much as in clothing. For a generation or two, the 20 has been espoused as the perfect tool for upland hunting, starting off a kid or female or for use by older hunters. Words like light,fast,and responsive get used, and a sure way to get a discussion going in a gun shop is to be either quite supportive of the 20 or stating it's only good for itty bitty birds and/or itty bitty shooters.

As with most myths, there's a kernel of truth in there somewhere.

Most American made 20s weigh 6-6 1/2 lbs, about what the best Brit "Game Guns" do. They shoot a similar load, about an oz, and oft swing and handle nicely.

But....

That light weight comes in part from a slimmer and smaller butt. Less surface area means more felt recoil, AKA kick. Some 20s are vicious with 1 oz loads, most are emphatic. For tyros, this is no good thing.Drop the load to 7/8 oz,as was intended for the 20,and it's much more comfortable to shoot.Slow it down to 1150 FPS, Huzzah, much better.

And, that smaller bore means more shot squeezed through a smaller hole, thus more shot deforming.
A load of shot from a 20 rarely duplicates the pattern efficiency of a 12, all else equal. And a smaller bore and load means a little more choke is required to keep pattern density up. A 25 yard shot at a quail with a Cylinder bore 12 gauge needs a Light Mod choke in a 20 gauge to match the density. A smaller pattern is then made that means it's easier to miss with, or at worst cripple and lose. All else equal, a 20 has maybe 5 yards less effctive range.

Fast and responsive means the swing starts AND STOPS, more easily. One has to work a bit harder keeping a light shotgun going. It certainly can be done, but the shot goes with a different rythym and pace. Practice is needed to make things work.

A round of any clay game will show you why hard core skeet shooters go for those tube sets instead of true 20 gauge sized guns. It's too much work adapting to a lighter weight and faster swing.

So. what's the 20 good for?

Where light and fast means more than payload weight,like for quail,grouse,dove etc. And while good squirrel loads are not rare, a 7/8 oz load of hard 6s through a tight choke is close to optimum for gray and fox squirrel.This definitely is 20 gauge territory.

For deer. If a hunter is relatively recoil tolerant, a Brenneke in a 20 is one great close range deer load.

For tyros, IF a 7/8 or lighter payload is what's used.

And for a change of pace.One dedicated shotgunner of my acquaintance uses 12 gauges on waterfowl and clays, but birdhunts with the venerable 20 gauge A-5L that was a birthday or Xmas present to him in his youth.

And for HD. Statistically there's little difference in effect between the gauges.

Hope this explains things well, sing out if there's questions...
 

JohnPL

New member
Happiness is reading a Dave McC posting...Hope I'm not violating any copyright laws, but I print them out for future reference.

Informative and entertaining. Keep 'em coming, Dave. :D
 

PJR

New member
Great post Dave.

My experience with the 20 is restricted to the clay target fields (so far) and the smaller gauge doesn't give that much up to the 12. In skeet, the registered target scores between the two gauges are so close that many competitors use the 20 in both classes. I've shot sporting courses with my 12 and 20 and not noted a significant difference between the two until I get to the longer shots. I generally shoot somewhat tighter chokes for the 20.

I acquired my first 20 last summer -- a Browning Feather XS with 28" barrels. The plan was to use this gun as a backup for my 12 gauge target and hunting guns should either be out of comission. At under 6.5lbs this gun this gun is everything Dave said, easy to carry, easy to swing, quick to stop, and quickly tiresome with 1 ounce loads. This gun kicks every bit as much as a heavier target 12 gauge. Mine gets a steady diet of 7/8's ounce loads at 1200fps and I'm considering going to 3/4's of an ounce for skeet just for some added recoil reduction.

One note about the 20, is to make sure you clear your vest and shellbag before you go back to shooting 12. If you inadvertently load a 20 into your 12, the smaller shell will lodge in the chamber. When the gun doesn't fire, it's easy to assume you simply didn't load the gun and insert a 12 behind the hidden 20. Should the gun be fired in this condition severe damage to the gun will follow along with potential injury to the shooter and nearby observers. This nearly happened to me. I was just about to insert the 12 gauge shell until I checked the chamber and found a hidden 20. At the time, my wife and two close friends were about ten feet away. I still shudder to think what might have happened if I hadn't checked and am now fanatical about clearing my vest and shellbag after shooting my 20.

Paul
 

Al Thompson

Staff Alumnus
Dave, one additionl thing - the light weight of the 20s can help get a youngster or lady shooting faster - several folks I know simply didn't have the upper body strength to manipulate a 12.

The youth model 1200 and the youth model 870 that's on my list have reduced dimensions as well..

Giz
 

Christopher II

New member
I'm a hardcore 20-ga. fan, in fact it's the only shotgun bore that I own (4 between myself and my Dad, there's some contention about who owns what. :D) Mr. McC is, as usual, right on, although I shot skeet for several years with a 20-ga. 870, and later an 1100-LT20 and had no problems with my swing. Then again, I grew up on the 20-ga.

Recoil is different in the 20, quite a bit sharper than a 12. If it gives your problems, get an adjustable drop buttplate. This moves the stock off your collarbone while still allowing a good firm cheek weld. Building up the comb with Cheek-eze or foam rubber/duct tape also helps. My 1100 has both a buttplate and an adjustable comb, and it recoils about like an AR15.

- Chris
 

BigG

New member
Your words ring true, Dave. I was shooting skeet with a guy who usually uses a 12 bore Beretta and rarely misses. This time he was using an identical Beretta but in 20 gauge. He missed about 6 per round...

Takes skill to wield a scalpel as opposed to a machete. :D
 

Dave McC

Staff In Memoriam
Thanks, folks, I appreciate the feedback.

To all, ANY of my scrivenings can be printed out for private use,with credit given. Any commercial
use without discussing it with me and getting permission first is a bad idea. Several attorneys I have instructed in "Serious" shooting owe me big time favors.

And I've been plagiarized. The guy that did so will not do so again, IMO.

Good point, Paul. If I ever go to a 20, I'll set up s separate vest, in a different color, for just 20 gauge.

Also,take 50-100 FPS off those 7/8 oz loads and enjoy. The American fixation on More Is Better ruins more shooters than Sarah Brady.

Giz, of xourse. You and I know there's always tradeoffs.

Thanks again...
 

bikeguy

New member
honestly, I think a .410 is a better coice for youngsters. That's what I started out with and I could bust clays with it better than I ever could with my 20 that I got a few years later. I think the the cheif reason for that was because I did not feel like I had to lean into the .410.

As an adult, I don't think there is a NEED for a 20, as the recoil diff. (from 12 ) is really negligible IMO. But hey, if it floats your boat, get one! Just be careful not to mix up your shells!;)
 

JohnPL

New member
Dave-
Rest assured that anything of yours I print out is for my use only. Wouldn't dream of using your words as my own. I couldn't fool anyone, anyway.;)
 

johnbt

New member
I think the 20 is a wonderful gun for carrying up and down hills and on long walks. Not a 20 built on a 12ga. frame, but a 20 on a properly sized smaller receiver. Actually, I read recently about a Merkel 16 built on a 20ga. frame and thought it sounded about right.

And I know that the 20 will get the job done, even if some of the lighter ones kick a little. Twist my arm and I'll tell the story(again) about my father knocking two turkeys out of the air with two shots of hi-brass 6 from a 20. Of course, back then the lead shot was soft, they hadn't invented plastic shot cups and it took a full choke to make a reasonbly long shot. If you stepped on a covey of quail you had to wait for it to scatter to have a shot.

Then there was the one about the bear in the creek, but my grandfather and uncle had 12s loaded with number 6, so I guess that was really a birdshot-killed-the-bear story and not strictly a 20-ga. story.

I spent the afternoon at the range with my dad and bugged him again to buy a computer and come hang out at TFL. No dice. He said he's 80 and is going to spend his remaining days shooting and not yakking. He said to say hi.
My mom said "Guns. Thllllbbpt." Of course, she has always said that and still always rides along with him and reads in the car while he shoots. Then she gets treated to a meal of her choice.

Oh, speaking of shotguns, my uncle gave my father a Winchester Model 37 .410. Nice little single shot in like new condition, but I had 3 .410s when I was a kid, one of them Savage 24 with .22Mag., and I just never figured out what they were good for. Not quite enough oomph for me.

Now a light 20, there's a gun for a hunter.

John
 

Dave McC

Staff In Memoriam
410s aren't good for much on living things. Exceptions include landfill rats and belfry bats.

A few decades ago in a military survival school, an instructor finished up a short segment on the old AF combo survival 22/410 with the comment that if attacked by something large and carnivorous shoot it with the 22 and save the 410 for yourself.

As for a light 20 in the uplands, Pop's last O/U after his old Savage was stolen was an SKB 20 gauge, IC/Mod. He sadi the only difference he noted was that he wasn't quite as tired at the end of a day's hunt.
 

dfaugh

New member
While I have a 12 guage for HD (buckshot, you know), If I started hunting small game again (lost interest, when pheasant population went away in NY), and I might, I would definitely go with a 20...My first shotgun was Mossy 500 20, and after tutelage from my father (who learned to hit moving/flying targets, not with a shotgun, but from the tail end of a B-17) I could shoot 98-99% trap...Surprised many guys with $2000 trap guns (picture 14 yr old kid w/ $100 field grade shotgun)...easy carry, recoil tolerable after shooting 100 rds... etc. Wish i still had the gun, sold all my guns when I gave up hunting, now my interest in guns, at least, is renewed...Sigh!
 

C.R.Sam

New member
Great read Dave, as usual.

My first shotgun was a short stock, short barreled, hard butted, small frame Parker 20. It put a lot of grouse in the pot and one deer. It taught me how to get four fast shots out of a double.

Wasn't till a few years later that I shot a 12. Superposed with pad. Then is when I learned how brutal that little 20 really was and I never shot a 20 after that.

The 20 Parker did make me flinch proof when later shooting monster loads in big bore rifles, and it was well worth the thirty or so bucks that it cost.

That gun was cruel and unusual punishment for a little kid.:D

Sam
 

Dave McC

Staff In Memoriam
A Parker 20 gauge for $30? Things have changed....

After starting off with that 16 gauge H&R that killed on one end and crippled on t'other, the old 870 seemed to have zero kick. Even after I learned that one could drop the gun weight about a lb by removing that solid steel mag plug and come up with a 7 lb field gun, I had a much softer recoiling shotgun. Even with 1 1/2 oz "Short Mags" it was better than that 16 with 1 1/8 oz goose busters.

I equate the recoil from that H&R with that of a 7 lb Remington Rolling Block carbine in 45-70 I traded for around 1961. IIRC, I fired 3 rounds of the old 405 gr Govt ammo and decided to sell it on the spot.

Back to 20s....

The 870 Youth Express here is a nice handling piece. As long as 7/8 oz loads are used, it's an all day gun.

BTW, weight approaches 7 lbs, a few oz lighter than Frankenstein. Go figure....
 

Popsicle

New member
I personally prefer the 20 ga. for the bird hunting I do. I only hunt dove and quail, with the occasional rabbit, and love the light weight, smaller receiver, and shorter barrel of my Mossberg 20 ga. guns. I also shoot clays pretty darn decent with them, although I also prefer a 12 ga. gun for targets. I have found the responsiveness of the Mossberg 20's I have help immensely where I hunt... along the Muddy river where it is so overgrown with mesquite that all the shots taken are "snapshots". Try as I may, my Browning BPS 12ga. is just too long and heavy to do this type of shooting effectively.

Pat Brophy
 

DOCSpanky

New member
I choose 20 simply because the gun is on a smaller scale. It fits me better. I had a hard time getting a comfortable and proper grip on the fore end of many 12's.

I'll have to revert to the Col. on the recoil issue though. "What is recoil? If you are focused nothing short of a .460 Weatherby has recoil!";)
 

Dave McC

Staff In Memoriam
Thanks for kicking in, guys. A lot of the time, we pick our shotguns for reasons other than pure logic.

If one desires to shoot a particular shotgun, no reason not to.

As for the good Colonel, I respectfully disagree.
Ft/lbs are ft/lbs, and do not disappear when ignored. Focus is paramount.
 

BigG

New member
The Kernel, again...

I shot four rounds of skeet with my 12 gauge Superposed. Then a fellow shooter gave me his Citori combo with the 410 bbls and a handful of shells. I was busting clay quite regularly with the lil feller and realised there was little to no recoil, even though I was not aware of it with the 12 bore. I realized (again, but it helps to be reminded from time to time I guess) that RECOIL IS RECOIL and absorbing 100 12 gauge 1 1/8 oz skeet loads adds up to a lot of ft. lbs, regardless of what the kernel says.
 

JIH

New member
I'll have to revert to the Col. on the recoil issue though. "What is recoil? If you are focused nothing short of a .460 Weatherby has recoil!"
Horsepoo.

The hardest kicking two guns I've ever shot were a .410 and a .30'06.
 
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