Why can't loading primers be simple

Longshot4

New member
Here I am trying to work up accuracy loads for my 222 again. Then I found primer seating with a curve ball. I put away The old Lee screw Hand priming tool because it was deforming primers. So I have rhe rock-chucker to press those little cups. The CCI BR-4 primers don,t seam to like my WW cases. 3 or 4 primers gave me a hard time seating. So I gave them some elbow greese. I thought that was the way. We never stop learning. Well I charged the cases and started seating the three types of bullets in groups of five. When I used calipers to check OACL I found that a good 80 percent of the primers were up to 5 thow short of being seated. All the rounds through the years and I must have been assuming it's ok not any more. I never figured the primer pockets vary in depth but I now beleave that is what it is. Well evidently thare are more than one or two tools to cut pockets. So the question is what cutting tool and am I on track?
 

WIL TERRY

New member
IT IS SIMPLE !! STUFF it into the hole until it hits bottom; SHAZAM !
Now remember, all things are made to tolerences and sometimes all the tolerences stack in the wrong directions. So, use different primers. Know the O.D. on the primers you're using to the half ten thousands. BUY primers by their O.D.
One time I got 5000 R-P 2 1/2 large pistol primers included in a trade. They were .005"[five thousands] out of round. To use them in 45ACP brass I had to screw them into the primer pockets with a screw activated priming tool made to prime 30/06 brass, a tool made at FRANKFORD ARSENAL[ the real one, NOt the midway crap!!!] by a tool and die maker there named Leo Lewis. Incidently, those R-P primers were outta round then because they were using the old style 2-legged anvil. R-P went to 3-legged anvils thirty years ago or so.
I ALWAYS prime with handtools before loading.
 

green_MTman

New member
i use the Lee priming tool.it works well.your looking for ever so slightly below flush.you can go by feel,it does not require measurement
 

superspirit

New member
I use an RCBS hand priming tool and wouldnt trade it for any other, my lee hand primer and RCBS ram prime tools set on the shelf unused.
 

DRSmith

New member
I second Sierra280's suggestion. I had problems with primers not seating flush in some PPU .30-30 cases. The primer pockets weren't flat-bottomed, but radiused a bit at the edges. I got a Redding primer pocket uniforming tool, and it fixed the problem.
 

243winxb

New member
RCBS Ram Priming Unit works for me on tight pockets. Seat, turn brass 180 degress, seat again.
416519.jpg
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/416519/rcbs-ram-priming-unit
 

mikld

New member
I have been reloading for a while and primers haven't given me any problems since I got a ram prime. I tried three hand priming tools and mebbe my hands were weak, and the tools didn't fit my hand correctly (a Hornady, and two Lee hand primers). I have been reloading for revolvers (7), pistols (5), striker fired, single action and DA, 3, bolt action rifles, 2, single shot rifles (Contender and Handi-rifle), and 2 semi-auto rifles (SKS, M1 Garand). I have used nearly all available brass and 4 primer manufacturers and haven't had to "reform" any primer pockets, and with a ram prime I have never had a problem, I just seat the primers all the way to the bottom of the primer pocket, and as long as the cup is flush or below, they work quite well. I can't remember the last failure to fire or a "proud" primer...

Priming really is simple...
 
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Ralph Allen

New member
I have loaded many thousands of different calibers with an RCBS hand priming tool. Biggest thing is you learn to "feel" what, how, why and when.
Ralph
 

Longshot4

New member
:). It sounds like I have a bad batch of WW cases. Pockets require truing. My present tool selection needs a update. I will need a good quality pocket uniformed. I am way overdo to update my hand priming tool and holders. The tight pockets could be fixed also. I appreciate all the comments on this subject of primer seating issues. It sure beats waiting for next months issue and hope the pros cover my problem. My how times change. :)
 

reynolds357

New member
Not derailing or brand bashing, but Federal Bench rest primers always seem to go into Lapua and Norma brass with no problems. I have thrown many things across the room over the years when working with Remington, Winchester, and Federal Brass. Winchester brass has gotten to the point that I try to avoid it like the plague. Some of it you can look at and tell it needs to be in the trash. If you place value on your time, Lapua and Norma are Cheap if they are available.
 

mikld

New member
FWIW; I hear a lot about "bad cases". I have been reloading handgun ammo since '69, and rifle since '88 and I've yet to come across more than a half dozen "bad cases", if that many. I've seen pictures of cases without flash holes, with flash holes off center, and misshaped heads, but none in real life. My personal stash runs about 1k cases in .38 Spec, mebbe 800 .357, 1500-1600, .44 Mag. and 300, .44 Special, 1,000-1,200. .45 ACP, 2K 9mm, 1k .223/5.56 and around 800-900, 30-06. I also have mebbe a total of 700 misc. cases in a few other calibers, and I can't remember any of these being "bad". I've reloaded just about every available manufacturer's case and very rarely (like never) find one defective from the factory. Personally, I think there is a lot of "operator error" being covered up by claiming "bad brass". It's amazing that such a huge amount of mass produced products are so consistently good and trouble free.

Hey, jes my $.02...
 

243winxb

New member
My old "Sako" 38 special brass is the reason i got the above RCBS tool. Never thought to measure the pocket depth. Maybe next loading. Measured .113" for small pistol. Buying a tool to uniform the pocket for 100 pcs of brass is not worth the $$. Tool is $30.
 
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Longshot4

New member
Mikld. The loads that I had tight and shallow pockets with fired without any problems. Although groups were far from satisfactory. I have had similar problems before over the years and just lived with it. I decided to go ahead and purchase the new tooling now that I again have easy access to a range again, and I have more time. I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of loaders just accept variations in primer pockets. I might as well get my practice in now. I don't plan on purchasing a $xx,000 rifle. I am just trying to develop one that shoots bug holes even if they are larger bugs. I love it when the guy next to me seas YOU MISSED! Then I say NA it must be your eyes. Let's go see.:D
 
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cryogenic419

New member
If you want to uniform the primer pockets the Redding tool is hard to beat.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/76...ket-uniformer-tool-small?cm_vc=ProductFinding


Probably the best hand tool out there for seating primers is the RCBS unit. Had one of these since the late 90's and it has never failed me.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/329291/rcbs-hand-priming-tool?cm_vc=ProductFinding

I deburr all flash holes and uniform primer pockets on all my rifle brass. Just takes the variables out of the equation and gives me consistency across all my brass.
 

cw308

New member
Cryogenic419 is right on, I uniform my primer pockets every time, that cleans and sizes the pockets, makes for easy priming. I also de burred the flash hole, only has to be done once, than clean the flash hole. you want the primer pockets all to be the same depth, the uniformer will be the answer. Seat the primers till they bottom, will be a hair below flush. Doing this you will never have a problem seating primers & your primers will perform well. Chris
 

Blindstitch

New member
I have the Lee hand prime and Lee Ram Prime.

But it didn't get easy till I found the little RCBS priming Press.

Looks like this.
orig.jpg
 
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