Why are colt SAA's so expensive?

STAGE 2

New member
I've been looking for an SAA and have it narrowed down to a couple of choices. I looked at some colts the other day and they are 400-500 more than any of the clones that I've seen.

Why are they so much more expensive? I can't see a 400 difference in quality. What am I missing?
 

Eghad

New member
If you want to shoot em buy some clones....... I own a Colt SAA and a Uberti Clone and Taurus Gaucho. You can get a Millenium clone for about $250.00. The Colt is still a safe queen.. I think I bought it about 1982, its 24 years old last month.

Colt was the original to some extent you are paying a difference for the name.
I havent handled a newere Colt SAA so I cant say about the quality in fit and finish....
 

Dfariswheel

New member
The Colt Single Action is still built pretty much the way it was long ago from forged and milled steel, not castings and MIM parts.

Colt is famous for their color case hardening, and no competitor has ever really matched them.

Unlike a lot of "look-alikes" the Colt still has the original lock work, while many other brands have modern transfer-bar actions.

The Colt is largely hand built, hand polished, and still has Colt's famous Royal Blue finish.
A lot of competitors guns have wavy flats, ripples in the barrel finish, and machine marks showing.

A lot of the Colt quality is internal where you don't see it.

Many Colt components like loading gates, back straps, and trigger guards are hand polished while temporarily assembled to insure a close match of parts.
Others are assembled after finishing, so parts often aren't a very close fit.

Colt's are usually more accurate and target better.
 

44 AMP

Staff
Colt SAA

Also, for the last few decades, the SAA has come only from the Colt custom shop. This handwork adds considerably to the price.
 

carl418

New member
I've learned the hard way, the old adage...... You get what you paid for! That seems to be especially true when buying guns....;)
 

gak

New member
The current Colts are a reasonably-quality piece, but like others have suggested you're also paying for the famous, original name. If you want to pay less (but warning, not a whole lot...) for something you wouldn't feel quite so guilty actually shooting get the US Firearms (USFA)...not the cheap one (non case-hardened one focused on cowboy shooters) but the "regular" model (someone else can chime in here...). Darned close and some say even superior to current Colt manufacture. USFA's are very nice and their price reflects it, but if your budget says lower than that several other imports are nice too that still have the hammer-mounted firing pin, etc. Cimarron (Uberti) SAA clones are hard to beat in that $400-500 zone--seem to be a little nicer in the finish department vs other Ubertis. Note: 3rd Generation Colt SAAs had an odd kink in the hammer tip that, while perhaps unintentional, signify some quality issues there.... So, among the Colts, I'd probably get a current model where I believe they've rectified that odd glitch (do they call the current ones 4th Gen yet or just late 3rd?) or 2nd gen before those.
 

Hafoc

New member
"You get what you pay for?" Does that mean I get to go along on the salesman's Caribbean vacation?

:D

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I get the impression that current Colt single actions are for putting in a velvet-lined, glass-topped case-- with the hammer carefully tied down, lest somebody ever pull it back and thereby ruin its collector value. I've even heard claims that some nickel-plated Colts that came out a while ago would strip their plating like a banana peel if you ever actually FIRED them.

I do mean it when I ask "correct me if I'm wrong," btw.
 

STAGE 2

New member
So from what I gather a large degree of the increased price is for the dancing pony on the box. Thats what I figured.

What I'm looking for is a fun/trail/camp/plinker gun. The stainless cimarron has caught my eye, and it also has a forged frame. As a result, the durability/longevity of the gun should be comparable to the colt right? While the colt's internals may be better, I'm probably going to send it off to a smith anyways.
 

jakerudy

New member
I have a 1st generation SAA in .44-40 that I really enjoy shooting and have compared to some of the clones. The clones don't seem to make the same clicks and or have the clockwork-like movement of my Colt. That said I wouldn't use it as a camp or trail gun. My choice for that would be a Ruger Vaquero.
 

Majic

New member
So from what I gather a large degree of the increased price is for the dancing pony on the box. Thats what I figured.
If you are trying to justify buying the cheaper clone then I guess that's as good as an excuse as any, but remember as time passes the Colt will increase in value while that can't always be said of the clones.
 

Sgt127

New member
If you are REALLY gonna use it...and you are not tied down by tradition. The only answer is a Ruger Vaquero. If you want a COLT SAA...Well, then you need a COLT SAA. Or a USFA. I have owned a couple of the Uberti guns, with various labels, and they were..."OK" guns. Some had soft parts, the colors were at best, decent.
 

Hafoc

New member
Stage 2--

If it's a fun gun you're looking for, there's no wrong choice. :)

For a fun/trail/camp/plinker, I would guess Cimarron would be fine. They're dealing in clones, and like most of the less expensive clones these come from Italian factories. The differences brand to brand have more to do with how much care is taken in fitting and finishing. Cimarron has a good reputation.

If you don't insist on perfect historical authenticity, you might want to look at the Beretta or the Taurus Gaucho. I have a Gaucho and it's one of my favorites. It operates like a Colt-- you halfcock to load and unload. It (and the Beretta) differ from the Colt in that they have a transfer bar safety. This means that you can carry them with all six chambers loaded, in relative safety, ONCE YOU HAVE LOWERED THE HAMMER from halfcock to full down while-- and this is RATHER important-- not letting it slip and set the fool gun off. It's not that hard to do, but you do have to be careful.

If you don't insist on much historical authenticity at all, check out the Ruger. Not only does it have a transfer bar for relatively safe carry with all chambers loaded, it also has you load with the hammer already fully down. In fact, you can't do it otherwise. While on other single actions the loading gate is just a cover that opens and closes, on the New Model Rugers (those made from the mid 1970s onward) the loading gate is part of the mechanism; it won't open with the hammer back, nor can you pull the hammer back while the loading gate is open.

In addition, the Rugers use coil springs throughout, and a modernized, sturdier design. They don't have the beloved four click hammer of Colts, clones, Berettas and the Taurus-- only two positions, down and fully back. But they're as close to idiotproof and indestructable as firearms get.

Ruger single actions come in more flavors than any other brand. From smallest to largest:

Bearcat, .22 LR, very small.

Single Six-- typically in .22, issued with two cylinders, one for the standard short/long/long rifle, the other for .22 Winchester Rimfire Magnum. It's a little smaller than the Colt. Ruger has made them in .17 cal. rimfire and in .32 H&R Magnum too.

New Vaquero, in .357 Magnum and .45 Colt. It's the same size as the Colt, and comes with fixed cowboy-style sights like an old frontier Colt's.

Vaquero, no longer in production. Sometimes called the Old Vaquero. It's similar to the New Vaquero, but bigger than the old Colt. It's heavier and stronger.

New Model Blackhawk, same size as the original Vaquero, but with adjustable target sights. It's available in a Great Multiplicity of calibers. Some Blackhawks have extra cylinders (as the Single Six usually does) so they can shoot multiple kinds of cartridge. This is chiefly useful if you have that particular "extra" cartridge around, or can get it especially cheaply.

Super Blackhawk, the big fella, typically in .44 Magnum, although it's been made in other calibers too.

All this detail might make you think I like the Rugers the best. I'm not sure I do. Thing is, most of the other reasonably priced single actions you see out there come in .45 Colt and .357 Magnum, and maybe you'll find a .44-40. There might be some variation in barrel lengths and grips available. That's about it. The Rugers need more detail because there are so many different kinds of them.

Edit: In case you don't know-- you probably do, but just in case-- The original Colts, and perfect reproductions of the original Colts, shouldn't be carried fully loaded. While they do have a safety notch, theoretically, it isn't reliable. And then, more likely than not, it breaks and doesn't work at all. With the original Colts and close copies the only safe way to carry is with the hammer down on an empty chamber.
 

STAGE 2

New member
Thanks for the advice guys. I think I'm going to go with the stainless cimarron. Like I said, this will be an all around beater/trail/fun gun. Even if I did buy the colt, from the wear that this will see, the value will go down considerably.

The stainless finish and forged frame should be fine for what I need. The beretta and the ruger just arent an option for me because of the transfer bar safety. Its not necessarily a historical think as it is my dislike of people fouling with things that already work, sort of along the lines of the smith and wesson lock.

90 percent of the time that I will carry this I'll be on horseback anyways which means I'll have a rifle as well, so the 1 less round wont make a difference.
 

James K

Member In Memoriam
Historic, schmistoric! If you want a good solid SA gun for a camp gun, forget the Colt and its clones, and buy a stainless steel Ruger. For your purpose, the name doesn't matter, but ruggedness and reliability do, and the last thing you need is a broken spring out in the wilds someplace.

For a camp/trail gun, I would go with the Single Six, which can fire .22 LR and .22 Magnum; the former is inexpensive for plinking, the latter is good for small game or even defense (not in bear country, though!).

Even smaller and handier is the .22 LR Bearcat.

Larger revolvers are fine if one is going vehicle all the way, but .45 Colt ammo can get mighty heavy if you are toting it, and mighty expensive if you are plinking with it.

Jim
 

STAGE 2

New member
Hey Jim,

Thanks for the advise, but I really don't have much faith in ruger products. I also dont like it when people foul with designs that work. S&W's with locks and ruger transfer bars to name a few.

As far as the spring issue, I get most of my "work" guns revamped so that won't be an issue.

This particular pistol needs to be a .45lc to go with my levergun, so the caliber is a moot point. Yeah .45lc is more expensive than other calibers but it takes a whole lot longer to go through 100 rds with a single 6 shooter than it does with say either my beretta or my HK.

As far as being heavy, well I'm a pretty stout lad so big guns and big calibers don't really bother me.
 

STAGE 2

New member
Hey Jim,

Thanks for the advise, but I really don't have much faith in ruger products. I also dont like it when people foul with designs that work. S&W's with locks and ruger transfer bars to name a few.

As far as the spring issue, I get most of my "work" guns revamped so that won't be an issue.

This particular pistol needs to be a .45lc to go with my levergun, so the caliber is a moot point. Yeah .45lc is more expensive than other calibers but it takes a whole lot longer to go through 100 rds with a single 6 shooter than it does with say either my beretta or my HK.

As far as being heavy, well I'm a pretty stout lad so big guns and big calibers don't really bother me.
 
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