Which brand of 1911 ejector is preferable?

[mikikanazawa]

Hey guys, my Kimber's ejector's rear leg is loose. If I shine a light into the ejector/extractor area of the gun while working the slide slowly, I can see the ejector flexing.

There are several brands on Brownell's available for $20 to $30. Ed Brown's "Bulletproof" ejectors have a lifetime warranty. What's the word from TFL Collective?

 

[jerryd]

Have you checked the pin holding it in place?

 

[auto45]

I've used Wilson's on two guns now and they work fine, meaning they haven't broken in tens of thousands of rounds.

If it means anything, they are made out of "barstock".

No doubt, EB, EGW, etc make very good ejectors also.

If it's a range gun, it may last a long time the way it is; try some locktite also, but I'd probably it replace also.

 

[Handy]

Along with what Jerry said, you need to find out WHY the ejector is moving before you replace it. If the problem isn't the ejector, replacing it is a waste.

Check the pin and frame, first.

 

[Dave Sample]

Maybe it is not pinned. It may be installed with Loc Tite or perhaps they forgot to do it right. I use Caspian Ejectors and they work just fine after I install them and tweak them. Send it back to Kimber and tell them to do it right this time!

 

[mikikanazawa]

Thanks all for the advice.

The ejector is pinned as it is currently. The rear leg (the non-pinned one) is loose. If you press down on the ejector the rear leg will rock in and out.

This is a bit of a mini-project gun so I don't mind paying for a new part and fitting it vs. sending it back to Kimber for warranty repair. (Besides that, I have yet to get a warm body on the phone over the course of maybe 10 calls to get a manual for my Ultra CDP II.)

 

[Dave Sample]

OK Here we go again! You need a 1/16th inch punch to remove the pin. A bench block is nice for this kind of work and a good stout vice will help. Drive the pin out from the LEFT side and then clamp the lower end in the vice by the ejector. The frame will be straight up and the ejector will be clamped in it. Gently tap the frame loose from the ejector.
Install the new ejector by putting it in the frame, and then make a mark on the front leg with the punch or a sharp pointed object. Pull it out and file a notch in it the size of the 1/16th " pin so the when you re install it, you can see a round hole through the frame. The notch in the leg will be facing forward, of course.
Clean the area with acetone and also clean the new ejector. Apply Red Lock-Tite to both legs, install it in the lower end and drive the pin back in from RIGHT to Left and make sure that is does not stick out on either side. Good Luck
If I were you, I would have a pistolsmith replace it for you if there is one nearby.
You also could simply re-install the Kimber ejector with red loc-Tite.

 

[James K]

One more point to add to what Dave said. You will be tempted to just drill out the notch in the ejector leg by running a drill into the pin hole. Resist that temptation. The drill can wander when it hits the ejector leg and end up enlarging the hole and damaging the frame and the ejector.

Jim

 

[Dave Sample]

Jim is right. Do not try to drill the hole. You are trying to force a very small drill onto a half circle of metal and it almost has to wander and enlarge the hole in the frame. A nice little triangle jewlers file with make a neat notch for you!