What the value of a S&W 66 snub?
- Thread starter Neal_G.
- Start date
Most S&W collectors will pay a premium for no-dash models. The higher the dash number, generally the more features that were removed from the gun to cut costs. The early 66s are great guns and have a certain style and class that others can't replicate.
Here are a couple of my no-dash 66s.
Here are a couple of my no-dash 66s.
In my area, the 66-2 seems to be the most commonly encountered version with snubs running $600+ (4" guns are running about $500 these days and that is the most common barrel length). The -2 was the first M66 to lack the pinned barrel and recessed chambers. An older 66-1 or 66 no-dash have higher collector value, but the -2 is really just as good a shooter.
While it has the most collector value, I would not recommend a no-dash for a shooter. The changes made to the -1 were because of functioning problems with the no-dash rather than as cost cutting measures. The key difference betweent the no-dash and the -1 is that the gas ring was relocated from the yoke to the cylinder. This is because stainless steel expands a bit more when it heats up than carbon steel (the M13 and M19 never had a problem) and the gas ring would sometimes swell and lock up the gun when it heated up. Changing the location of the gas ring solved the issue.
Also, as is the case with all K-Frame Magnums, it's best to avoid magnum ammo with bullets lighter than 140gr as large amounts of lightweight magnums can eventually lead to a cracked forcing cone (the full-power 125gr seems to be the worst offender). A cracked forcing cone requires a new barrel to fix and S&W is no longer making K-Frame .357 Magnum barrels. If, however, you limit your use to either .38 Special ammo or .357 Magnum ammo with at least a 140gr bullet, your M66 (or any other K-Frame for that matter) will likely last several lifetimes. Truthfully, you're better off with the heavier bullets anyway as they will suffer less velocity loss from short barrels than the lighter faster loadings (158's usually run 1100-1150fps from a snub while 125's usually run 1200-1250fps).
While it has the most collector value, I would not recommend a no-dash for a shooter. The changes made to the -1 were because of functioning problems with the no-dash rather than as cost cutting measures. The key difference betweent the no-dash and the -1 is that the gas ring was relocated from the yoke to the cylinder. This is because stainless steel expands a bit more when it heats up than carbon steel (the M13 and M19 never had a problem) and the gas ring would sometimes swell and lock up the gun when it heated up. Changing the location of the gas ring solved the issue.
Also, as is the case with all K-Frame Magnums, it's best to avoid magnum ammo with bullets lighter than 140gr as large amounts of lightweight magnums can eventually lead to a cracked forcing cone (the full-power 125gr seems to be the worst offender). A cracked forcing cone requires a new barrel to fix and S&W is no longer making K-Frame .357 Magnum barrels. If, however, you limit your use to either .38 Special ammo or .357 Magnum ammo with at least a 140gr bullet, your M66 (or any other K-Frame for that matter) will likely last several lifetimes. Truthfully, you're better off with the heavier bullets anyway as they will suffer less velocity loss from short barrels than the lighter faster loadings (158's usually run 1100-1150fps from a snub while 125's usually run 1200-1250fps).
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If you hold one of these you'll forget the 66. It only hurts when you shoot it.
And let's get something straight, people who buy compact/lightweight 357 revolvers and think they can shoot full house 357s for a lifetime 'cause it says so on the side are stupid. That's like plowing fields with a racehorse. You practice with 38s and shoot a cylinder or two of hot loads that you'll use when you carry and THAT'S IT. If you buy a Corvette and board it at every stop sign and light it wont last 6 months.
And let's get something straight, people who buy compact/lightweight 357 revolvers and think they can shoot full house 357s for a lifetime 'cause it says so on the side are stupid. That's like plowing fields with a racehorse. You practice with 38s and shoot a cylinder or two of hot loads that you'll use when you carry and THAT'S IT. If you buy a Corvette and board it at every stop sign and light it wont last 6 months.
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Thanks Neal. I'm proud of those myself. Not many people have a pair of no-dash 2.5" 66s. I'm really on the prowl for a pair of no-dash 4" 66s now. It's not easy. Good luck with your search. You'll find that the Model 19/66 has a huge following with old school S&W fans. They are true classics and you can't go wrong, though I much prefer the older models to the new stuff.
Deaf Smith
New member
Yep a good M66 snub is great.
I sure like mine.. but I pack a Glock cause it works well, takes all kinds of abuse, and if I drop it I won't cry (I sure will with those two above.)
Deaf
I sure like mine.. but I pack a Glock cause it works well, takes all kinds of abuse, and if I drop it I won't cry (I sure will with those two above.)
Deaf
jglsprings
New member
Well, if you are really lucky $385.00.
Local gun store, two weeks ago, a consignment that someone was in a hurry for the money. I've looked a long time for one of these and the prices quoted above are about average. $500 to $650.00 depending on condition and what you are looking for.
In the spirit of full disclosure it did come with rubber grips and I put these on after purchase.
Local gun store, two weeks ago, a consignment that someone was in a hurry for the money. I've looked a long time for one of these and the prices quoted above are about average. $500 to $650.00 depending on condition and what you are looking for.
In the spirit of full disclosure it did come with rubber grips and I put these on after purchase.