What is an "adjustable objective"?

thaddeus

New member
Pray tell, what is an "adjustable objective", and what does it do?

I am eyeballing this scope, which is a bit more powerful than I want, but it is a decent price for all I can tell:

New Leupold 4.5x14x42mm tactical, adj. obj., duplex for sale--$400.00

Definitions and opinions appreciated.

thanks,
thad


[This message has been edited by thaddeus (edited April 23, 1999).]
 

Mikey

New member
thaddeus,

I am really starting to enjoy answering your posts. You are really new at this, aren't you.

Like I've said before, you really ought to find a nearby shooting club and join-up. Lots of old timers are just itching to share their knowlege and experience.

But, alas, to your question....The objective is the lens on the front of the scope (the front being the big end closest to the place where the bullets fly out of the gun - I know...bad joke). Due to lens construction, there is a finite amount of distance over which a lens can remain in focus. The higher the power, the further out the focus distance. So, what do you do if you want to shoot at short distances but at high power?? Make the objective lens adjustable for focal distance!!

This is a simple answer to a complex subject because there is another phenominon called parallax that is also affected by an adjustable objective but that is probably waaaay too much for you to try to absorb just now.

Feel free to pick my feeble brain.

Mikey
 

thaddeus

New member
I am glad you are willing to answer my questions. I just really know nothing at all about scopes or scoped rifles, as you can tell ;) It was all assault rifles for me, until I got tired of blasting away dirt hills, and now I want more of a challenge.

Now I understand why the adjustable objective is useful.

thanks,
thad
 

David Schmidbauer

Retired Screen Name
Come on Thaddeus ask him how parallax come into play with AO/Magnification/Scopes. ;)

------------------
Schmit, GySgt, USMC(Ret)
NRA Life, Lodge 1201-UOSSS
"Si vis Pacem Para Bellum"
 

thaddeus

New member
Alright...alright...what the heck is parallax? ;)


While your at it, why not explain some of the other features that come on scopes that I am looking at here in Gun List like target knobs (M1-3? EFR?), side focus, heavy duplex, cams, long range, LPS...
Then there are mounts: dovetailed, high low medium, two and one piece...then there are rings...

I have many many questions, I am just trying to spread them out ;)

thad
 

Mikey

New member
Thanks Gunny! Now look what you've done ... he's a scope info monster!

Parallax: The apparent change in the position of an object resulting from the change in the direction or position from which it is viewed. (from Websters)

In nature it is caused by the bending of light by either the atmosphere or water. If you shoot at a fish under water and aim directly at what you see, you will probably miss the fish because it's not really where it appears to be. Just like the sun, which does not really squish into an oval shape before it sets, but it appears that way.

In scope optics, light is bent as it comes through the lenses to cause magnification (which is really just a change in appearance of the object since it really doesn't get closer) and that bending comes to a focal point at some distance from the scope. That distance is the true focus distance for that scope, at that power setting. Objects nearer or farther than that distance can appear to be in focus but really aren't and if you move your point of observation (your eye) behind the scope, the object you are viewing appears to move in relationship to your center of field of view (defined by the crosshairs). The movement distance appears greater as the object is viewed at greater distances nearer or farther than the true focal point. If you could always place your eye in the exact center of the field of view then parallax would be unimportant, but you can't do it. So most scopes are made to be parallax free at approximately 100 yards at their average power setting.

With an adjustable objective, however, you can focus your scope to any distance you want and eliminate parallax at that distance, regardless of power setting. This is very important for precise shot placement and obtaining small groups at any appreciable distance (like benchrest matches).

By the way, DO NOT trust the range markings on the objective bell of most AO scopes. Dial in the distance to your target and, with the scope set to the power level you want to use, sandbag and aim at your target. Move your eye left/right/up/down and look for apparent movement of the target in relation to the crosshairs. Make fine adjustment to the objective until no movement is detected. Look at the setting and record it as being the proper one for that distance. Repeat for each distance you shoot and you'll soon memorize the proper settings. If you forget, look back at your notes.

Target Knobs: Most scopes come with small turrets with screw-on covers. Beneath each cover is a flush adjustment "knob" with a screwdriver type slot for adjusting windage or elevation using a coin for a screwdriver. Target knobs are larger and, mostly, uncovered. They allow you to make adjustments for windage and elevation by hand (just turn the knob).

Side focus: Replaces the adjustable objective lens bell with a large knob on the side of the scope for parallax and focus adjustment. Allows you to make those adjustments easier while looking through the scope.

Heavy duplex: Refers to a type of crosshair reticle. Appears to be a very heavy line at the edges of view but becomes finer at the crossing area. You will also see fine crosshair, duplex (regular), crosshair and dot (dots come in different sizes usually listed in minutes), post reticle and on and on.

Minute: Since I brought it up...means minute of angle (60 minutes to one degree). It is approximately 1 inch at 100 yards. A 1 minute dot would appear to be 1 inch in diameter at 100 yards.

Cams: Devices used in the elevation adjustment knob to compensate for bullet drop at various distances for a specific cartridge. When installed properly, you sight in at a distance corresponding to the knob setting and just turn the knob to any other setting and the adjustment is made for that new distance.

I'm getting hungry now and I think I'll stop here. You have entered a whole new hobby area with scopes and long range precision shooting. It will be a long, methodical process to get where you want to be. Go for it!

Mikey
 

James K

Member In Memoriam
Thad,

A couple of answers at a time.

A dovetail is a fitting that looks like a truncated triangle (and like the spread out tail of a bird). Common on scope mounts and furniture drawers from the better makers.

A dovetail mount is one designed to fit into pre-cut grooves on a rifle. Most .22s and some high power rifles (Ruger) have these. The mount fits over the groove and then is clamped tight with screws on the mount.

When a rifle does not have grooves, a mount base must be attached to the rifle, usually with screws. Most rifles today come with screw holes drilled for this purpose. Those that aren't must be "drilled and tapped" for attaching the mount base. This involves drilling holes in the rifle receiver and then "tapping" the holes to put screw threads in them.

Simple bases come in two types, one-piece and two-piece. The one piece is used when the receiver is flat, like a Marlin lever action. Two piece bases are used for most bolt action rifles, with one piece on the receiver ring at the front, and the other on the receiver bridge at the rear. Bases also come in high, medium and low because of differences in rifles (example: a high base may be needed to allow a bolt handle to clear the scope.)

The other piece of the mount is the rings, which go around the scope tube and clamp to it. Rings are made in two pieces to allow this. The bottom of the rings have a means of attaching to the base, usually something readily removable. Good mounts will allow detaching and reattaching the scope with a return to zero (without disturbing the sight setting). QD means Quick Detachable.

Optical equipment power is expressed in 2 figures, the first is the power (magnification), the second is the size of the objective lens (the one nearest the object being viewed). So binoculars described as 7 x 35 are 7 power with a 35 mm objective lens diameter. The bigger the objective lens, the more light gathering power and the better the instrument will be in low light conditions.

There are variable power scopes whose magnification can be adjusted; these are described, for example, as 2-7 power, with the first number being the lowest magnification setting and the second figure the highest, with markings for the settings between

That's all for now, folks,

Jim
 

David Schmidbauer

Retired Screen Name
I knew with a little bit of prodding his questions would come flooding forth.

ROTFLMAO

Schmit, GySgt, USMC(Ret)
NRA Life, Lodge 1201 UOSSS




[This message has been edited by David Schmidbauer (edited April 24, 1999).]
 
Top