What distance to start with a scope
- Thread starter THERAVEN
- Start date
This depends on HOW you sight it in. If you use a collimator or a "calibrated eye" or laser bore sight, that should get you on the paper (and possibly very close to point of aim) at 100yds.
If you don't, then 25yds is a good starting point. The reason is that a scope that may be off by enough to miss the target entirely at 100yds usually hits somewhere on the paper at close range. 1 or 2 shots at 25 will tell you if you're close enough to point of aim to be on the paper at 100.
If you are on the edge of the paper (or just off it) at 25yds, adjust your scope until your shots hit close to point of aim, then move out to 100 and do your fine tuning.
I'm not talking about sighting to a particular spot at 25yds so your drop curve matches a certain point out at 200 or 250yds, that is a different matter.
If you don't, then 25yds is a good starting point. The reason is that a scope that may be off by enough to miss the target entirely at 100yds usually hits somewhere on the paper at close range. 1 or 2 shots at 25 will tell you if you're close enough to point of aim to be on the paper at 100.
If you are on the edge of the paper (or just off it) at 25yds, adjust your scope until your shots hit close to point of aim, then move out to 100 and do your fine tuning.
I'm not talking about sighting to a particular spot at 25yds so your drop curve matches a certain point out at 200 or 250yds, that is a different matter.
I don't. But I will shoot 25yd or 50yd to make sure it is on paper. Then I go to 100yd for zeroing, or whatever zeroing distance I desire.
-TL
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
If you don't do some sort of bore-sighting to get the scope pretty close to being lined up before you take it to the 100 yard line, you can waste a lot of ammo getting it sighted in.
Worse, there's some potential for danger if the scope is really set wrong and the bullet goes way off target. It's common, for this reason, for ranges to require that you start the sight-in process at close range before progressing to longer ranges.
Worse, there's some potential for danger if the scope is really set wrong and the bullet goes way off target. It's common, for this reason, for ranges to require that you start the sight-in process at close range before progressing to longer ranges.
With a bolt rifle I remove the bolt and look through the barrel. It is easy enough to adjust the scope and get within 2-3" of your aiming point at 50 yards with the 1st shot. I then adjust the scope again. I move straight to 100 yards for shot #2. It may not be perfectly zeroed but will once again be within 2-3". After some scope adjustment shot #3 should be close enough for a hunting rifle at 100 yards. After that I start shooting groups and may tweak the zero if needed before moving to 200 yards and repeating.
If you can't look through the barrel to get the rifle bore sighted then use a bigger target, one that you can't miss. You can start at 25, but I've never had any problems starting at 50 even when I couldn't bore sight. I save cardboard for this, but a sheet of poster board is less than $1. You can tape over bullet holes and use the same target multiple times for zeroing.
Remember, all you need to do is get one hole in the target. It doesn't matter if it is 2" or 2' from your aiming point you should be able to get the next shot near perfect zero.
I've never found any of the various tools used to sight a rifle to be any more accurate, save me a single round of ammo nor 1 minute of my time.
Most hunting scopes will move point of impact 1/4" at 100 yards with each click of adjustment. At 50 yards 1 click = 1/8" and at 25 yards 1/16". If you start shooting beyond 100 yards remember that at 200 yards each click is 1/2". At 400 yards 1". Some scopes are different so it's a good idea to check specs.
If I'm 3" low and 2" right with my 1st shot at 50 yards, then I need 24 clicks up and 16 clicks left to get the rifle perfectly zeroed. If shooting at 100 yards and off by the same distance, then 1/2 that number of clicks are needed.
If you're using a decent quality scope that accurately moves the POI with each click it doesn't take many shots to get zeroed. I like a target with 1" grids on it to help measure how far I'm off in each direction.
Another tip. If buying a new scope, it should be already centered. If the scope has been on another rifle, it probably isn't. To center the scope, turn the elevation dial as far up as it will go. Then move it as far down as it will go counting clicks as you go. Just to keep the math simple let's say you get 150 clicks total. If you move it back up 1/2 that (75 clicks) the crosshair is now centered vertically. Repeat for windage.
If you do that, you're less likely for the 1st shot to be WAAAY off.
If you can't look through the barrel to get the rifle bore sighted then use a bigger target, one that you can't miss. You can start at 25, but I've never had any problems starting at 50 even when I couldn't bore sight. I save cardboard for this, but a sheet of poster board is less than $1. You can tape over bullet holes and use the same target multiple times for zeroing.
Remember, all you need to do is get one hole in the target. It doesn't matter if it is 2" or 2' from your aiming point you should be able to get the next shot near perfect zero.
I've never found any of the various tools used to sight a rifle to be any more accurate, save me a single round of ammo nor 1 minute of my time.
Most hunting scopes will move point of impact 1/4" at 100 yards with each click of adjustment. At 50 yards 1 click = 1/8" and at 25 yards 1/16". If you start shooting beyond 100 yards remember that at 200 yards each click is 1/2". At 400 yards 1". Some scopes are different so it's a good idea to check specs.
If I'm 3" low and 2" right with my 1st shot at 50 yards, then I need 24 clicks up and 16 clicks left to get the rifle perfectly zeroed. If shooting at 100 yards and off by the same distance, then 1/2 that number of clicks are needed.
If you're using a decent quality scope that accurately moves the POI with each click it doesn't take many shots to get zeroed. I like a target with 1" grids on it to help measure how far I'm off in each direction.
Another tip. If buying a new scope, it should be already centered. If the scope has been on another rifle, it probably isn't. To center the scope, turn the elevation dial as far up as it will go. Then move it as far down as it will go counting clicks as you go. Just to keep the math simple let's say you get 150 clicks total. If you move it back up 1/2 that (75 clicks) the crosshair is now centered vertically. Repeat for windage.
If you do that, you're less likely for the 1st shot to be WAAAY off.
This is the origin of "bore sighting". You look down the bore and your eye naturally finds the center of the circle (as it does for peep sights), and you then adjust your scope. It requires the barrel to be mounted so it stays in place once you have your target centered in the bore, then you adjust your scope (or sights) to be on target.
It works best with bolt actions, but can be done with any firearm where you can look down the bore from the breech end. Marlin lever guns allow this, with the bolt removed, and it can even be done with an AR upper (the entire rifle is not needed...)
With some improvising, it will work with any gun. Bear in mind you just need to put the shot on paper, and that paper can be oversized.
Set a ruler on barrel near the muzzle and eye over its edge. It requires some doing. If it is too much trouble still, just move the target real close, 10yd or even 5. It will be pretty difficult not to have the shot on paper.
-TL
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
"Prep" first, then enjoy your Range-Time
Be Safe !!!
Yes, this works but a bit premature. I suggest that there is a bunch or "required" preliminary work, beofre you go to the range. Call it "smithing" if you wish and mostly limited to your shop. Some relplies touch on these important steps. I'm sighted-in beofre I hit the range, I am truly ready for this final "confirmation". Takes me a lot longer to set or prep, than having to "smith" at the range and a lot more satisfing. .....
Be Safe !!!
Unless solidly mounted in a fixture, all guns move while the bullet travels down the bore, and move more after the bullet has left. By the time a rifle muzzle has moved 1/16th of an inch, the bullet is long gone...
Muzzle movement after the bullet has left the barrel has no effect on the bullet.
Before. While still in the bore.
Nothing moves when it is bore sighted. No guarantee to hit paper even reticle and bore line up. Shorter distance increase that probability.
-TL
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
oldmanFCSA
New member
I look thru the bore at an object at 100 yards and adjust scope to point seen thru bore, then I adjust scope up 24 MOA and shoot into berm at 1000 yards and if quick on re-acquiring scope I can see point of impact, then i re-sight on original point of aim and adjust scope to point of impact AND I"M SIGHTED IN - works at any range. Try it.
Kreyzhorse
New member
I give it a rough bore sight, start at 25 and if I hit, move onto 50. Hit, move to 100. At that point, sight in a bit over 100 yards depending on where you hunt.
Understanding ballistics is key at 100.
Understanding ballistics is key at 100.
oldmanFCSA
New member
As I said - one shot method works at any range whether on paper or on dirt berm - type and amount of scope adjustment only limited by distance involved