What causes a broken shell?

Dezynco

New member
I've heard of it happening to people all the time, but it's never happened to me.....before now! Fortunately, the whole cartridge ejected without getting stuck in the chamber. Got me wondering what actually causes this to happen. Or rather, what set of conditions cause a broken case?

Any suggestions?
 

dahermit

New member
Usually it is a result of work-hardened brass from one-two many reloads. However, if it was a factory round, the brass was improperly heat treated after forming.
 

AK103K

New member
Could be a couple of things. As was mentioned, the usual suspect is reloaded brass towards the end of its life.

I suppose you could get a bad case with new ammo, I just never have.

Something of more concern, especially if its doing it with factory ammo, would be headspace. If thats the case with you, I would stop shooting the gun until I had it checked out.

I had a Ishpore SMLE in 7.62 that had that issue, and it had a number of case failures at the base using military ammo.
 

Dezynco

New member
Ok, so understand how worn or weak brass can cause this. How does headspacing problems cause broken cases? Just looking for an way to visualize "how it happens".
 

AK103K

New member
In a properly headspaced gun, when the gun is fired, the brass expands to the confines of the chamber. If there is excessive headspace, the brass has more room to flow or move, and if there is enough room, it can and will fail.

What usually happens with reloads is, the brass flows towards the case mouth, which is why we trim the cases. After a number of loadings and trimmings, the brass has stretched, and the weakest part of the brass, is usually just above the case head. This is why you should check inside, with a dental pick, or something similar, for the tell tale that the brass is about to go.
 

Scorch

New member
Headspace is the distance between the base of the cartridge and the headspace surface. In a rimless cartridge, this is a datum line halfway up the shoulder taper, in a rimmed cartridge it is from the rear the case head to the front of the rim, in a belted case it is the distance from the rear of the case head to the front of the belt. There is a good illustration of this in most reloading manuals.

In a firearm with excessive headspace, the cartridge is moved forward by the impact of the firing pin, expands and grips the chamber walls, but then the case head is pushed back to fill the gap at the rear of the chamber, stretching and possibly tearing the brass in front of the case head.

In reloads, often people move the shoulder of the cartridge back when they resize. If you move it back more than .002"-.004", you can create a headspace problem even if the firearm does not have excessive headspace.
 

handlerer

New member
Many reloaders , neck size only, to avoid setting back the case shoulder. This is believed to extend the life of a piece of brass, because it is being worked less. Everytime it's used it's fireformed to the exact dimensions of the chamber. I believe that belted cartridges have a shorter safe lifespan because the sizing operation stops at the belt, and the chamber accommodation for the belt creates another stress point, so the failure point is often right in front of the belt. Some brass is better than others. Norma and Lapua brass have lasted longer for me, but are the most expensive. They use a slightly different alloy than American makers, which is slightly thicker and less brittle. With Remington brass I was only able to get one factory equivalent reload and the primer hole stretched so far that it would not hold a primer. I only loaded ten of those and ended up pulling bullet on eight of them. Oh, I reload for 300 WBY. 340 WBY, 223, 44Mag, 6.5x55. On the 223 I was careless with brass separation, large volume shooting, and payed for it. There is a learning curve, and you will learn to spot a suspicious piece of brass. Sometimes there is shinier ring in front of the case rim, where failure would occur, that brass should be removed from the supply. in 44 years of reloading I have had 2 casehead failures. Both were in rifles solid bolts and solid receivers: Rem 700 7mag. MKV 340 WBY, both actions are as advertised three layers of steel and no damage was done to either rifle. I am suspicious of some rifle makes in Mag chamberings that lack these features, SAvage, Tikka, to name just two. It may not be an issue, but I like solid steel between me and 65000PSI.
 

Dezynco

New member
Ok, I did some very careful measuring. It seems that my headspacing is about .0025 too loose. If I had only had one case separate, I would have never thought much about it. Since I posted this, I've shot about 15 more times and had 2 case splits, and 3 that have a distinct "ring around the collar".

The rifle is a FAL that I've been piddling with and have posted about in another post on this forum. It seems that the replacement locking shoulder that I was sent is a little too small. When I first shot the rifle after installing it, the gun shot FANTASTIC! But now that it's been shot about 50 times or so, the "coat of paint" has rubbed off of the locking shoulder. It's shooting all over the place and separating cases. It went from shooting nice little nickle-sized groups to shooting at best a 12" group! Plus the brass will have to be thrown away....

I'll doctor on it and get back to you guys.
 

AK103K

New member
The locking shoulders on the FAL's come in different sizes so you can set headspace. I dont remember there being paint on the ones I've seen, but its been awhile.

Are you checking the headspace with a set of gauges and the bolt stripped?
 

TheManHimself

New member
Also, very old or improperly stored ammunition can have weakened case walls due to corrosion, which can contribute to case separation; any ammunition with significant visible corrosion (green or black on brass cases, rust on steel cases) should not be fired.
 
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