I was looking at a 6" stainless GP100 today at a local shop. It was used but seemed to be in good shape. I was about to buy it, and something made me spin the cylinder while it was open. When I did, there was a weird rattle as the cylinder rotated. My blued model doesn't do it, and I handled another used blued model they had in the store and it didn't do it either. I asked if they would come down on the price since the guy behind the counter witnessed it, but he said no, so I left it there. There was no endshake or other abnormalities I could find, but I didn't trust it. Any idea if it's serious? I might go back and get it if it's not, cause it was a decent price.
Weird rattle on a stainless GP 100 cylinder
- Thread starter 2DaMtns
- Start date
Dfariswheel
New member
Ruger double action revolvers have a unique design non-rotating ejector rod.
Typically they tend to rattle, some worse than others.
This tends for some reason to be worse on the smaller SP-101 models.
This is simply the nature of the design. Occasionally a little grease can reduce the rattle.
Typically they tend to rattle, some worse than others.
This tends for some reason to be worse on the smaller SP-101 models.
This is simply the nature of the design. Occasionally a little grease can reduce the rattle.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
You spun the cylinder and they didn't beat you over the head with the gun?
Can you spin the cylinder when it is out?
Can you spin the cylinder when it is out?
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
IDK if you did anything wrong or not. I know most people don't like it if you spin the cylinder when it is in the gun, which I am pretty sure isn't possible on a GP100 because it has ?positive lock?. When the cylinder is flipped out maybe you can. IDK. I just limit my spinning to dry-firing as fast as I can.
2DaMtns - nothing wrong with spinning the cylinder when it is open (swung out), won't hurt a dang thing. It's also a useful way on a used revolver to make sure that it spins true and does not wobble or oscillate about it's axis, which would be a sign to walk away from the purchase.
Of course, never flick it closed or while spinning (puts undo stress on the crane, as well as the cylinder locking pins at the rear and front, on a GP100).
Both my GP100's and both my service six rattle a tiny bit. The transfer bar will rattle a bit, and on the GP100's the ejector rod, since it is not rigidly mounted as on a revolver which used the ejector rod as part of the cylinder lockup (eg. as on a Service Six).
Of course, never flick it closed or while spinning (puts undo stress on the crane, as well as the cylinder locking pins at the rear and front, on a GP100).
Both my GP100's and both my service six rattle a tiny bit. The transfer bar will rattle a bit, and on the GP100's the ejector rod, since it is not rigidly mounted as on a revolver which used the ejector rod as part of the cylinder lockup (eg. as on a Service Six).
Ah, I see. I tried to be as clear as I could in the OP so people would understand when it was rattling and what was causing it. And then I figured he thought I spun it and slammed it shut like all the pros do in the movies. Just trying to clarify and see if I was doing anything wrong. I'm not exactly a rookie, but I sure don't know everything either, so I just wanted to make sure.