Walther P-38 - need some info

[bedbugbilly]

I'm liking shooting 9 mm more and more - have a Ruger SR9 - BUT - I am drawn to older "classics" so to speak. I shoot revolvers as well and like vintage Colts & S & W - on that note - I've always been attracted to the p-38s. I'm thinking that it would be fun to have one but I am in a quandry over what to look for. I've been doing my research and have a lot more to do and when i look on sites like GB - the prices are all over the place. I know that it because of "collectability" but I'd like to get something that would be a decent shooter. I know there is war production and post war production and that the post war models were utilized by a lot of different countires. In looking at close up photos on GB - there seems to be a variety of what I would call "quality" - i.e. - some very nice, some with less than nice machining - and I am asssuming this is due to time of production, slave labor in the factories, etc. for war time models. Can someone out there steer me in the right direction of what I should be looking for? Again, I'm looking for a "shooter" and don't care if it is post war or not - I just want one that will be a good shooter. I can wwell remember that when I was a kid (many, many years ago), a P-38 could be had for $35 - $45 - a lot of them GI "bringbacks". Those days are gone and I'm not afraid to pay the price but don't want to get "taken" either. I've never shot one and would also like to know what those of you that have one, think of them? I'm seeing prices from $300 on up into the thousands - what should a good shooter run - say a post war model? If I run across one, what should I be looking at? Are there any "weaknesses" to them or problems? Are they a pleasure to shoot or a PIA? Thanks for any information, advice, etc. - is greatly appreciated.

 

[Chris_B]

Hi Billy

You might want to consider a P1. Post-war, alloy frame. Good pistols, 99.9% the same as a P.38

As you point out, some wartime P.38s are not high quality. I own a 1944 production Spreewerk made example (made in Czechoslovakia). The 'secret code' for Spreewerk is 'cyq'. Cyq pistols used to be overlooked but I think now even these 'lower overall quality' pistols have a collector value. Mine is actually fairly nice, but it was also a Russian capture, and it was fired often and cleaned seldom- dark pitted bore.

What you want to make sure of with a wartime P.38, regardless if it is a Mauser made, Walther made, etc pistol is that the Barrel, Frame, Slide, and Locking Block all match for s/n, and were not 'force matched' which means that somebody made the parts work together on one pistol from several other pistols and then re-struck the serials to match

Other things to consider on the wartime pistols- the safety 'barrel'- I forget its real name, the locking mechanism that incorporates the lever that engages the firing pin safety and makes the hammer drop- can break. The slides also have several right angle sections which can develop cracks

I love my P.38 as it is fairly dripping with history being nazi proofed, and then Soviet captured making it a WWII and Cold War relic, but a nice trigger is one thing it doesn't have. It is also not terribly accurate.

 

[ZEBRARANGER]

I have the post war version P1 and its a fun gun to shoot. That was my primary reason for buying it, that and their still at bargain prices. Mine is pretty accurate and I've had no issues with it since I've had it over the last couple of years. Chris pretty much has it all covered, but another thing to look for is the reinforced hex bolt in the frame.

 

[Slamfire]

P1's used to be $650.00 and when these surplus pistols are gone, the price for a P1 will again be $650.

Get a P1 while you can.

 

[bedbugbilly]

Thanks very much fellas - that's a great help! I'm guessing that the P-1 would be what I'd be looking for then. While I like "collectables" and can appreciate the WW II history, etc. - I'm primarily looking for something to target shoot with that has a "vintage" feel to it. I'll keep doing my research and again, many thanks - you've given me a lot to think about and keep an eye out for. I suppose that if I ran across a P-38 at the right price I'd have to pick it up if it was decent. Can you give me an idea of what a good P-1 should sell for? Thanks!

 

[Martowski]

Go to www.aimsurplus.com, click on the handgun links, and you'll see P1's for $319. It won't get any better than that, and AIM is a well known, reputable, and first class company to deal with; they have a great reputation among firearms collectors and I personally have purchased several items from them over the course of the past 15 years.

 

[dgludwig]

Chris pretty much has it all covered, but another thing to look for is the reinforced hex bolt in the frame.

Where is this bolt specifically located? Does this admonition apply to all P-38s or just the P-1s?

 

[Martowski]

Here's a pic of the hex bolt. Not my P1; just a pic of one I found online.

The hex bolt only applies to the P1 model as it has an alloy frame and there had been some issues with frame damage with heavy repeated use. P38s don't suffer from this and don't require a hex bolt as they are steel framed.

You likely will do fine with a P1 with or without a hex bolt; I highly doubt you'll put enough use on it to cause frame problems unless you're a VERY heavy user shooting very hot loads consistently. I wouldn't worry about it at all. Just like most people would never shoot a K Frame S&W .357 loose but S&W still built the L frame for very heavy shooters.

 

[dgludwig]

Thanks, Martowski. That was very informative.

 

[Martowski]

No problem. I don't have much to offer, but I offer when I can.