W 760 in .30-06 w/165s ... need some input

labgrade

Member In Memoriam
Looking to load 165s in .30-06 using Win 760 but running into some "funny" data in the powder weight spreads. Win themselves (in the their free-be book) shows a velocity of only around 2650+ at max - seems low.

Sierra shows 52.9 max at only 2700 fps (w/Win cases which is what I'll be using) & Hornady ('s 3rd edition) shows 60.8 max w/their boattail (Frontier cases). Too Horn gives this bullet at about 3K fps for max.

Obviously, I'd like to start out in a better ballpark & not have to load the 1/2 gr increments & fill up two boxes to find the load. & I'm looking for a decent, flat shooter out of 3X different rifles - so will load what works "OK" and not be looking for a specific/tailored load - kind of to just duplicate a factory loading to SAMMI specs that shoots well.

Anybody?
 

MADISON

New member
I load W-748

The wife and I load 46.5 grains of 748 and get a 3/8 inch group, using the Hornady 165 BTSP
 

Cheapo

New member
760 may be just a bit too slow for best velocities in that bullet weight.

Bullets of the same weight are not always interchangeable, even in a fairly forgiving cartridge like '06. Harder jackets and longer bearing surfaces will generally mean it takes less powder to reach max pressure.

Will 10% down from max really result in 2 boxes of ammo to test in .5 gr increments? For first-series pressure testing, I sometimes load only 3 per charge. The accuracy testing that follows is guided by the pressure signs (absence thereof!) and velocities recorded.

BTW, a leveling off of the additional velocity for each successively higher powder charge *may* mean you're at max, even if primers and case head look okay for pressure. May not apply for super-Magnums, but I don't load those. Ouch!
 

labgrade

Member In Memoriam
Madison,

My (old) Hornady manual doesn't even show a charge weight of 748 that low. By guessing tho', looks like the velocity's in the 2550fps range. Have you chrono'd your load?

& Cheapo, I was being faceteous on the "two boxes" bit. Would rather work up the load through ten rather than 15 iterations is all.

Strange that Winchester recommends 760 as their "duplicate factory ballistics" & there's not more use of it.

In all actuality, I could care less what powder I use as long as it meters well as I'll decide on a decent load for the three rifles & just crank a few 100 out using a powder thrower. Seems that 760 would have been a good choice & the 165 a good all 'rounder weight for the 06. (I did choose the Horn 165 just because I already have a full box on hand & they're relatively inexpensive & decent quality)
 

CHAINSAW

New member
labgrade, I have had good sucess with both 760 and H414 and 165 grain Hornady SP's. I load 56(fifty-six) grains of either powder in a Remington case, and a Rem. 9 1/2 magnum primer. Cannelure of bullet not quite to top of brass neck.

The H414 was the most accurate and like 760 is a "ball type" powder. The above load is fairly accurate in all the rifles I have shot it in.--------Chainsaw
 

Art Eatman

Staff in Memoriam
I've used 3031 for 110-grain bullets, and 4064 for the heavier stuff--for a long, long time.

IN MY RIFLE :), I use 52.5 grains for the 150-grain bullet, and IIRC 50 or 51 grains for the 165-grain. Judging solely on the Sierra book's charts for external ballistics and my apparent trajectory for 500 yards, I'm getting right at 3,000 ft/sec and 2,800 ft/sec, respectively. (26" barrel.) I've never had flattened primers in civilian brass. (I loaded some GI brass with the 52.5 charge some 45 or so years back; definitely flattened primers!)

DISCLAIMER: Do not use these loads in your obviously inferior rifles; they will blow up and kill you!.

:D, Art
 

Jamie Young

New member
Art a 26inch barrel? What kind of rifle do you have? Glad to know that somebody out there reloads 110 and 150gr in there 30/06 besides me. I've gone up to the 220gr but never saw much sense in that. I prefer flatter shooting bullets out of the '06 rather than the heavier ones. I'll take the 180gr out for Bear but the 150gr are better suited for most of my shooting. What do you use the 110gr for?
 

labgrade

Member In Memoriam
Soda,

Actually "flatter-shooting" is way relative to the bullet's BC & velocity (& some more tech-stuff .... )

When doing the work-up for my .309 JDJ, I wanted "the perfect" (much as possible) 300 yd load - flat as possible & with as much retained energy as I could wring out.

Looking at 150, 165 & 180s' (& corresponding) real velocities, turned out that the 165 (@ 2400 fps) gave the best of both worlds over the three choices.

But, kicking up the velocities a bit, the 180 would have had the edge.

Just really depends on how fast you push 'em & within certain velocity ranges, different stuff works "better."

Was digging through a Hogden free-be last night & maybe some of their powder might be worth a try ....

I haven't loaded except one load for the 06 (a 180 Sierra Gameking for elk). Gotta admit, I'm a woos - after a few off the bench, I'd just as soon go back to the .22s & .243 ;)
 

Jamie Young

New member
I'm talking about shooting out to 500yds. I don't like to load up the 180gr real hot just because I can't shoot more than a box or two without feeling it for a week. I can hit paper without feeling like I'm dropping Bombs with the 150gr at 500yds. I shoot with a Model 70 24inch barrel. Got any suggestions? I like Art pretty much stick to 3031 and 4064
 
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