Vaquero chambers?
- Thread starter Ed Dixon
- Start date
It's the Ruger "New Model" action.
There's a couple of cures. The Power Custom freewheel pawl is the cheapest at about $35 if you drop it in (not too hard). A total swap of the hammer/trigger is another option, or the Alpha Precision modification. See also:
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80872
There's a couple of cures. The Power Custom freewheel pawl is the cheapest at about $35 if you drop it in (not too hard). A total swap of the hammer/trigger is another option, or the Alpha Precision modification. See also:
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80872
Oh 
. Sorry.
I know it's connected with the transfer-bar safety. And let's remember something else, the new model system allows opening the loading gate and both loading and unloading with the hammer completely down! The old model required half-cocking first, even once the transfer bar retrofit is done.
The new model action is supposedly a LOT stronger than the old model.
To me, the best combination is the new model action with a freewheel pawl or gunsmithed equivelent, where loading still happens hammer fully forward. True, the cylinders won't line up on the "click" but if you go too far forward, just roll back a tad.
. Sorry.I know it's connected with the transfer-bar safety. And let's remember something else, the new model system allows opening the loading gate and both loading and unloading with the hammer completely down! The old model required half-cocking first, even once the transfer bar retrofit is done.
The new model action is supposedly a LOT stronger than the old model.
To me, the best combination is the new model action with a freewheel pawl or gunsmithed equivelent, where loading still happens hammer fully forward. True, the cylinders won't line up on the "click" but if you go too far forward, just roll back a tad.
Ed,
Made me look didn't cha? I dug my Blackhawk and my Virgina Dragoon out of the safe just to verify it. The .44 mag Dragoon is a "traditional" 4 stop S/A, where the "clicks" line up a chamber. The deep part of the cut out for the bolt stop on the Dragoon is more over the thin part of the chamber. The only reason the Dragoon can stand up to this( .44mag pressures) as opposed to a Colt SAA, is because it's roughly 1/3 larger than a SAA.
The prawl and the bolt stop work in congunction to hold the cylinder in battery. With the offset on the Dragoon being further to the clockwise, that means the prawl is just a smidgen shorter, hence at half cock (loading), it puts a chamber just to the left of center. On the Blackhawk (same arrangement as a Vaquero)the longer prawl pushes the chamber more to the clockwise, and the chamber goes past center.
Then there's also the difference in the cylinder "star" where the prawl catches. The Dragoon (and my 1851 Navy BTW-another 4 click) have smaller hands which engage in a taper fashion, where the Ruger uses a squared arrangement. The Ruger uses a massive squared arrangement and a small bolt stop to hold the cylinder in battery. The Dragoon uses the reverse. A massive bolt stop and a small prawl. Combine the bolt stop cut out placement with the squared prawl in the unlocking arrangement Ruger uses, and the cylinder is just a smidge out of center.
It's hard to describe without having the 2 side by side. Here's a couple of pictures that might help. The Dragoon cylinder is on the left and the Ruger is on the right. Kinda hard to see, but the Dragoon bolt sopt cutout is about twice as wide. The 1851 Colt Navy is about the same as the Dragoon. While I don't have a real Colt SAA, I'm fairly certain it's built like the Dragoon and the Navy.('scuse the fuzzy image,,,it's early and I've only had one cup o' Joe
)I guess I thought it was something you just had to get used to. The 45 rounds are pretty big and the cylinder must be lined up just right for them to clear the loading port. Never had a genuine Colt SAA. The only other single action I own is a 22 and the loading port is WAY bigger than the holes in the cylinder so the alignment isn't critical.
I always try to use a "gunfighter's reload" where I keep the revolver in my right hand in firing grip - with finger outside of trigger guard. That means use left hand for unloading & loading. If you practice (I'm working on it) you can rotate and position the cylinder with your thumb and pinkie and operate the ejector rod with your index finger. I have small hands so it is difficult but not impossible for me.
PS:
BTW, do 357 Vaqueros and BHs have this problem, or just the 44s and 45s ?
I always try to use a "gunfighter's reload" where I keep the revolver in my right hand in firing grip - with finger outside of trigger guard. That means use left hand for unloading & loading. If you practice (I'm working on it) you can rotate and position the cylinder with your thumb and pinkie and operate the ejector rod with your index finger. I have small hands so it is difficult but not impossible for me.
PS:
BTW, do 357 Vaqueros and BHs have this problem, or just the 44s and 45s ?
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