Valvoline oil

Big Caliber

New member
Is there anything bad about using a little 5-20 Valvoline conventional oil to clean out a bore in addition to Hoppe's 9???
 

T. O'Heir

New member
Nope. CF gave us nothing but motor oil for cleaning everything. No 'solvent' of any kind even in our supply system back then.
 

mete

New member
Mixing things is not a good idea unless you know exactly what's in them !
There are some cleaning things I can think of that can kill you when mixed !!
 

Mobuck

Moderator
I really don't see the need to add anything to Hoppes #9. It's about all I use unless I'm dealing with a problem bore. In fact, I leave the bore wet with Hoppes for storage. Never had a problem and it sucks the remaining copper out as it protects.
 

Clark

New member
If I have motor oil in a bore, it is not for cleaning, but rust protection.
I patch it out of there before shooting.
Detergent motor oil, I do rub on the outside of guns with a toothbrush for cleaning.
 

Gunplummer

New member
Yeah, I use it for storage too. It is sticky and does not work it's way down the gun as quickly as some gun oils.
 

Big Caliber

New member
Thanks. I asked because after I cleaned out a rifle bore with Hoppe's, I was just going to run 1 patch w/ the motor oil and then 1 dry patch. Well, the dry patch came out dirty with carbon even though the I cleaned (or thought I cleaned) the bore thoroughly. I'm not looking to substitute oil for a solvent. The oil is only for rust control after cleaning. I was more concerned about the Valvoline as many folks like to use Castrol or some other synthetic oils. I've never had any problem mixing oils with Hoppe's, including Kroil oil. I always run a couple of dry patches thru the bores the night before a shooting outing.
 

tobnpr

New member
Well, the dry patch came out dirty with carbon even though the I cleaned (or thought I cleaned) the bore thoroughly.

Engine oils have cleaning/dispersing properties to shed carbon and other contaminants from the moving parts into solution- as well as lubricating ones...

I don't use motor oil (and rarely Hoppe's, either), but I suspect that the motor oil could loosen deposits that were not dissolved initially by the Hoppe's.
 

Don P

New member
Engine oils have cleaning/dispersing properties to shed carbon and other contaminants from the moving parts into solution- as well as lubricating ones...

I don't use motor oil (and rarely Hoppe's, either), but I suspect that the motor oil could loosen deposits that were not dissolved initially by the Hoppe's
An old trick I used as a auto mechanic. When your hand were really nasty with grease I would put some clean oil in my hands and rub it in. Worked real well to loosen and remove heavy deposits of grease and grime then followed up with soap and water
 

g.willikers

New member
^^^
Yup, before automotive hand cleaners became available, motor oil, along with dish washing liquid, was the way to get clean enough to be able to go home.

If you want to use an automotive product for cleaning, ATF (auto trans fluid) does help.
It's one of the ingredients in Ed's Red mix.
 
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tobnpr

New member
Fuel oil (diesel) is a great "cleaner" to cut decades of crusty oil deposits on old lathes...:D

Of course, proper disposal is needed. Even with the diesel "pre-clean", still went through about 15 gallons of Purple Power :eek:
 

buckmt1

New member
oil

Thank you! I never thought of "motor oil" for barrel cleaning\storage. I learned something new. I've been using sewing machine oil (very light coat) since the late 70's. Will try MO.




Artillery King Of The Battlefield
 
Yes. Board member Hummer70, who was an Aberdeen Proving Grounds Test Director, said the Army Marksmanship Unit went over to Mobile 1 synthetic oil for all their bore cleaning and general maintenance lubrication. If you look at the formulations, some of the modern oils approach something like 20% additive content. These additives are to dissolve carbon and other contaminants in an engine as well as to keep the oil from breaking down, and they work well on gun powder fouling. This is especially true if the barrel is still warm and the carbon has not had time to harden when you put the oil in. So take some to the range with you and get the bore wet with it before you pack up and head home. By the time you do, the carbon should all be well-softened.

I got some 0-W-20 on Hummer70's recommendation and it does seem to work well. I've been playing around with additives to get faster penetration (a little Kroil). Jury is still out on whether that really makes a positive difference or not.
 

mete

New member
That comes from an FBI study of things not designed for guns but good for guns . Mobil1 was the best !
 

RickB

New member
Is there an expectation among oil makers that some oils will come into contact with people on a regular basis, others won't, and so products are formulated differently?
Anecdotal evidence of washing your hands in motor oil aside, I'd think prolonged contact with the skin would be something not on the list of priorities for motor oil, while gun care products could be expected to regularly come into contact with the skin.
Are there specs or requirements for the contents of motor oils and gun oils that are incompatible? Is Big Brother dictating what is "safe" for oils (The United States Department of Cleaning, Lubrication and Preservation)?
 
In the past it has been the other way around. Motor oil wasn't harder on skin than petroleum jelly, but there were a lot of pretty nasty chemicals in gun cleaners, like nitrobenzene and spirits of mercury, and skin penetrating compounds like DMSO in turpentine components to carry those nasties right through to your bloodstream. You have to keep in mind that gun cleaners are designed to work at their job first, and have only been tamed of some levels of toxicity as regulatory requirements have stiffened. Indeed, Gunzilla's maker has a story of developing his non-toxic vegetable oils-based product in the 90's precisely because he couldn't find a really skin-safe gun cleaning product at the time. Even the military's CLP then still had one carcinogenic component (since removed).

As to Mobil 1, I don't know what modern additives have done for skin contact safety. You could read the MSDS sheet to see if it's any different than a non-detergent single-weight, like the old stuff was.
 
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