using only wheel weights?

rbf420

New member
so ive read here and there saying different things bout using wheel weights, can you use straight ww's to cast bullets for guns such as the 30.06 and 9mm? or do you need to mix it with another alloy to make it softer?
 

LHB1

New member
I've successfully used straight wheel weights for pistol bullets for many years at velocities up to 1425 fps. For rifle bullets, depends on the bullet design, lube, gas check or not, and velocity. I've shot wheel weight bullets in rifles at approx 2000 fps with gas checks and ALOX lube. Faster than that and you may begin to have serious problems and need special alloys.
 

dahermit

New member
...or do you need to mix it with another alloy to make it softer?
You would not want to make it softer. Despite the antimony in it, it is pretty soft already. You may want to heat treat it (in oven) to make it harder. Nevertheless, the common practice is to add a little tin (elemental tin, sheet metal is not "tin"), to make the melt flow better in the casting process.
 

Crosshair

New member
NO. Straight wheel weights. Save the straight lead for very low pressure stuff or for BP guns. I use WW in everything from the 32 H&R to the 44 mag to the 308 Winchester. (Reduced loads in the 308 of course.)
 

hornady

New member
Elmer Keith and Skeeter Shelton Two of the pioneers of the modern cast bullets. Pushed a bullet of about wheel weight hardness pretty fast. I think slugging the barrel and the right lube have as much to do with good Bullets .As actual hardness. Having said that. Most loads for Rifle in my Lyman cast book recommend Lyno-type. I cast my first bullet in 1975. And one thing I have learned over the years. The variables in casting can mess a good Bullet or gun up fast. Mix of lead, Dia, of Bullet ,speed of Bullet as well as lube used.
 

trip_sticker

New member
Elmer Keith and Skeeter Shelton Two of the pioneers of the modern cast bullets. Pushed a bullet of about wheel weight hardness pretty fast. I think slugging the barrel and the right lube have as much to do with good Bullets .As actual hardness. Having said that. Most loads for Rifle in my Lyman cast book recommend Lyno-type. I cast my first bullet in 1975. And one thing I have learned over the years. The variables in casting can mess a good Bullet or gun up fast. Mix of lead, Dia, of Bullet ,speed of Bullet as well as lube used.

That Lyman cast book you mentioned, does it have just load data in it or is there also plain reading to learn about alloy mixes and speeds and such? I'm still new to casting and I've been reading everything I can get my hands on. What info can I find in that Lyman book that I need?
 
It has both loads and general casting information. It is the best one out there IMHO. Very, very good read, and I think a "must" for casters both experienced and new to the hobby.
 

rbf420

New member
Score! i just picked up a bucket full of ww's from sum tire stores... they just throw them out and said if i can convince the guys i can just put my own buckets there and pick em up weekly!!!!!
 

444

New member
I use wheelwights in everything.
That being said, I have no idea what I am doing. I just bought a 55 gallon drum of wheelweights at the junkyard and started casting bullets. Used them in all manor of revolvers and rifles. But, I never made any attempt to see how fast I could push them or anything. I was just using them for light practice loads.
 

trip_sticker

New member
Could someone tell me which edition of the Lyman cast bullet manual is the most current edition? I googled it and found tons of used ones available for less than $20 but I'd like to know what is the most recent??
 

Edward429451

Moderator
I cast SG slugs and use the plumbers lead scrap for those because it's basically pure lead. Little known secret, crawlspaces are a great place to find pure lead scrap leftover from the plumber's repairs. Old lead drain lines just laying there...add some 50/50 to harden it up for general use or use as is for SG slugs, 45/70 bullets, and roundballs for all you CAS shooters.
 

Crosshair

New member
Score! i just picked up a bucket full of ww's from sum tire stores... they just throw them out and said if i can convince the guys i can just put my own buckets there and pick em up weekly!!!!!
:eek:
You lucky Duck. I have to buy almost all of mine and I have to make sure to call every two weeks otherwise someone else comes and buys them up. I only have half a ton or so of ingots. Local Scrap yard wants 3 times the going rate for WW at the auto shops.
 

QBall45

New member
A 5 gal bucket weights in around #150-175. So a 55 gal barrel would be around #1650-2000. No wonder your tailgate bent.

I get my WW free. I know the mgr at the tire shop.
 

wncchester

New member
"using wheel weights, can you use straight ww's to cast bullets for guns such as the 30.06 and 9mm?"

Sure, you can use it. But...it really needs a bit of tin to cast AND shoot better.

Part of what happens during cooling/solidification of WW metal is the antimony crystalizes out before the lead solidifies. The (hard) antimony is then held in the lead as a two part matrix, much like rocks in concrete, leaving the exposed soft lead to smear onto a bore more than it should. That does't matter for wheel weights but it does for bullets. A little bit of tin changes the mixture into a real alloy and that makes MUCH better bullets.


"do you need to mix it with another alloy to make it softer?"

Wheel weights don't need to be softer so far as shooting it goes. It does have quite a bit more antimony than is actually needed, especially if you add the tin, so it's something of a waste that could help harden pure lead if you have some of that too.


Any of the older Lyman Cast Bullet handbooks are good, as is the NRA published "Cast bullets" by Harrison. It's out of print of course but Amazon's used book sellers usually have it available for reasonable prices. There is little new about bullet casting that the old guys didn't know.
 
Part of what happens during cooling/solidification of WW metal is the antimony crystalizes out before the lead solidifies. The (hard) antimony is then held in the lead as a two part matrix, much like rocks in concrete, leaving the exposed soft lead to smear onto a bore more than it should. That does't matter for wheel weights but it does for bullets. A little bit of tin changes the mixture into a real alloy and that makes MUCH better bullets

You sure about that..........
 

trip_sticker

New member
Any of the older Lyman Cast Bullet handbooks are good, as is the NRA published "Cast bullets" by Harrison. It's out of print of course but Amazon's used book sellers usually have it available for reasonable prices. There is little new about bullet casting that the old guys didn't know.

I agree with ya that the old timers know a lot about bullet casting and such but I was asking because all the reviews I've read concerning the Lyman manual complain about it only covering loads using Lyman molds and only have a select few load data tables for certain powders. I'm the type that tends to read tons before I spend a dollar. I insist on getting the most for my money and I will research for months before investing in anything I want to last a long time.
 
Top