jason75979
New member
Would you all consider $350 a good price for a 550 with auto prime, 38special dies, and turret?
Used 550 price?
- Thread starter jason75979
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$350 isn't that far from new price, so what kind of condition is it in, and is everything included? Dillon has made some improvements over the years, so if it is older, it might not have some of the new features that have been included.
But normally you don't see Dillon at bargain basement prices, so it might not be too bad. Not sure I know what you are saying with auto prime and turret. All new presses come with both large and small priming feed systems, and without the turret you don't have a functional press.
You can buy a new one from Brian Enos for $440 + $17 shipping with the dies you want or for $420 shipped without dies from Reds Trading Post on fleabay.
But normally you don't see Dillon at bargain basement prices, so it might not be too bad. Not sure I know what you are saying with auto prime and turret. All new presses come with both large and small priming feed systems, and without the turret you don't have a functional press.
You can buy a new one from Brian Enos for $440 + $17 shipping with the dies you want or for $420 shipped without dies from Reds Trading Post on fleabay.
condor bravo
New member
If you can see the press, I will try to describe, from the looks of the operating handle, how you can tell a newer model from an older model. The older operating handle is easy to identify. It is a straight piece of round metal that projects upward from the press at a slight angle and the grip is a round ball about 2" in diameter. The newer model handle has a slight bend to it part way up the shank and the grip section is a horizontal extension without a ball. I also think $350 is a bit much; let's say no more than 275 or 300, especially if the .38 die set is not the one you need.
I have an even better test.
Look at the round sections of the levers where they pas through the bottom axle. Also look at the top round section where they are attached to the frame. Are they featureless, or is there a small, round hole in each of them.
Now look at the ends of the same axles. Is there an odd-looking nut, no nut or what.
Why do this?
Early presses had no lube provision in those pivots & were prone to binding (galling) if the owner didn't lube them.
That's the plain/no odd nut (call it a mark 1).
The small holes were added to allow lube to be squirted in. (Call it a Mk 2).
The special nuts with a grease fitting & no holes again are the newest type (Call it a Mk 3).
Now if the older presses owner lubed it no worries its fine just keep lubing it. But if he didn't the metal bearing surfaces are in need of help.
Check the alignment. (Dillon gives you the tool for free, just ask for it.)
Check for a worn column/frame fit. If the old owner didn't lube the arms he probably didn't lube the column either. How to check? Easy. Lower the arm, which raises the ram. Stop just short of the top & try to wiggle the head rotationally. A very small movement is fine, more than a little & you have a problem.
Look at the round sections of the levers where they pas through the bottom axle. Also look at the top round section where they are attached to the frame. Are they featureless, or is there a small, round hole in each of them.
Now look at the ends of the same axles. Is there an odd-looking nut, no nut or what.
Why do this?
Early presses had no lube provision in those pivots & were prone to binding (galling) if the owner didn't lube them.
That's the plain/no odd nut (call it a mark 1).
The small holes were added to allow lube to be squirted in. (Call it a Mk 2).
The special nuts with a grease fitting & no holes again are the newest type (Call it a Mk 3).
Now if the older presses owner lubed it no worries its fine just keep lubing it. But if he didn't the metal bearing surfaces are in need of help.
Check the alignment. (Dillon gives you the tool for free, just ask for it.)
Check for a worn column/frame fit. If the old owner didn't lube the arms he probably didn't lube the column either. How to check? Easy. Lower the arm, which raises the ram. Stop just short of the top & try to wiggle the head rotationally. A very small movement is fine, more than a little & you have a problem.
FrankenMauser
New member
The platform alignment tool is no longer shipped out to customers.
Dillon simply tells you to lower the ram and use the primer slide to align the ram. Then, raise it fully and verify (visually) that the platform aligns with the toolhead.
With the play that's in the toolheads, the press will "self-correct" for minor misalignment (up to 0.010" or so).
Rotating the ram/platform will tell you how tight the bottom pivot and toggle linkage is. It won't really tell you much about the ram and main bore.
To check for wear in the main bore:
Clean the exposed portion of the ram, while running it up and down a few times.
Then grab the bottom of the ram and move it front-to-back and side-to-side. It should feel nice and tight.
Raise the ram, and repeat the test on the top of the ram.
If there's slop, it probably wasn't maintained well.
And...
Note the lubricant (if any) that the previous owner was using. Dillon 550s should be lubricated only with a quality grease (preferably containing Moly-B) on the ram and pivot pins. If the press has been lubricated with oil, it will have more wear than a comparable greased press. Oiled presses will still run well, and should have plenty of life left in them (if otherwise maintained properly); but they will have more wear - even if not readily apparent.
If you DO find a press that has galling on the upper pivot pins and bores, don't be too scared as long as the arms still move and aren't grinding. Make a low-ball offer on the press, and tear it apart. Some quick work with emery cloth and re-lubricating with a quality grease can get even some bad cases back in business.
This ("Gen I") 550 galled and locked up on the right side. Pictured, it has 44.8 lbs hanging from the one link arm.
Even with another bag of shot, for 69.8 lbs total, the arm would barely move.
Once the right tools (large nails and a bolt) were located, tear down was quick and easy, and the press was back in business after about 1 hour's work with 600 grit cloth on the pins and bores.
It ran smoother after the 'repair' than it did brand new.
(Right pin is hollow. Left pin is solid. -- Remove ram. Drive left pin out [with a tool running through the right pin]. Drive right pin out. Dissembly done. ...It's that easy.)
That press was sold with full disclosure for $350, even being a 'Gen I' and having been poorly maintained for at least 15 years prior to me obtaining it.
jason75979
New member
Tha' heck with it, I'll just buy a new one, maybe an upgrade instead.
Thanks though, gentlemen.
Thanks though, gentlemen.