Trigger Smoothing?

[XD Gunner]

I have been checking out J-frames lately, looking for a good pocket carry. A member of this site mentioned how he didn't care for the trigger pull, and when I started actually checking out the triggers on NEW J-frames, I had to agree.

They feel rough. Notchy, and a pretty tough pull. Anyway to smooth them out other than just cycling the crap out of them? A trigger job is out of the question, unless you guys know someone that will do it for free

I understand that DAO means a tougher trigger pull than SA. My 686 feels like butter in DO compared to these J's though.

 

[nutty ned]

Well then, get some snap caps and dry fire away.
You can stone the sear and hammer notch, but, be careful.

 

[Lashlarue]

Shooting or dry firing are the easiest way to break in any gun, and you don't have to be a gunsmith'''My Cimmaron had a trigger job, but I still fire it with snap caps several hundred times a week~

 

[SaberOne]

‘I feel your pain.’ Seriously, the alloy j-frames are pretty bad while the stainless steel variants are better. Still, they remain rough and stiff. I have conceded that if I want a fine action with improved accuracy, I have to send it off to a reputable smith’. Conversely, I don’t mind a fire & forget revolver such as the Ruger LCR, or perhaps the new Bodyguard equivalent.

 

[XD Gunner]

Conversely, I don’t mind a fire & forget revolver such as the Ruger LCR, or perhaps the new Bodyguard equivalent.

The more I handle the LCR, the more I like it, the trigger is 100% better than the trigger on the Airweight J-Frames. The gun itself though, feels "cheap" I think it's the polymer on a revolver, it contradicts itself

 

[CWPinSC]

Polishing the mating parts with an emery wheel, honing stone, or polishing wheel with green compound will help. So will a set of lightweight Wolff springs. So will breaking it in. Put your favorite movie in the player, sit down with your UNLOADED gun, and crank it around a coupla hunnerd times.

After all this, take it COMPLETELY apart and clean it thoroughly.

 

[melchloboo]

Simply replacing the mainspring and/or rebound spring with wolff springs will reduce the factory pull by about 4#. Then dry-fire to smooth things out.

 

[kraigwy]

My 642's trigger, like most left a lot to be desired. When I first got it, I took the side plate off, filled it with tooth paste, and dry fired the crap out of it.

After a couple hours of heavy dry firing, I took it completely a part giving it a thorough cleaning.

Now its smoother then a prom queens thighs.

I dont like screwing with springs, I want my primers going off when the hammer falls.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Never put toothpaste or any abrasive in a gun's action. It wears spots that don't need to be worn, imbeds itself into the metal, causing excessive wear later.
If this were a viable option everyone would be doing it. Nobody does.

 

[davecharles]

Thanks for that one Bill. Only polish the areas where needed(not everything inside). Usually the bottom of the rebound slide does the most good. Hand polishing with a stone is a good way to go. Take a few strokes on a part, replace the part and dry fire to see if you are done yet. I've seen many handguns that had to have expensive parts replaced because an amature gunsmith decided to grind away inside the action to "smooth it up".
Dave

 

[SaberOne]

Now its smoother then a prom queens thighs.

Hmm, I never thought about that analogy but it sure brings' back memories.

 

[45_Shooter]

A trigger job is out of the question, unless you guys know someone that will do it for free

Do it yourself! If you're mechanically inclined at all, revolver trigger jobs are nothing more than looking for rough areas with high contact force. Buy a book for $20, and get some kind of stone (I've used fine knife sharpening stones before). J-frames these days often have poor some MIM casting around the sear, so likely your problem is there.

Just keep in mind that the internals are only case hardened, and if you stone too far you will go through to the soft internal metal without knowing it.

The trick on any S&W but especially new ones is to only stone out the imperfection, and perhaps not even all of it. I think S&W's procedure calls for replacement of parts instead of stoning, but stoning is free (basically) and might solve the problem just as well depending on it's severity and location.

 

[New_Member_Name]

i've been shooting my taurus 650 for like months now and its still hard to pull, so i would imagine another few months and it'll still be as hard to pull. but i leave it alone because it does what i want it to do.

 

[Jkwas]

My 642's trigger, like most left a lot to be desired. When I first got it, I took the side plate off, filled it with tooth paste, and dry fired the crap out of it.

I saw that method discussed on shooting usa on an episode with SASS. I think the shooter was "Lead Dispenser" that used it. In fact, it was the "Question of the Day".

 

[old bear]

Try a trigger shoe?

If they still make them, a trigger shoe is one way to make a stiff trigger feel lighter. A word of warning if you do try a trigger shoe be sure to Locktite the setscrews down, years ago there were reports of the setscrews backing out and the shoe working loose and jamming inside the trigger guard. Then dry fire it a lot.

 

[El Paso Joe]

I have had good luck with Wolff springs and judicious stoning - lightly with a hard stone and oil. If it feels smooth on the stone, it will feel smooth in the gun. Whatever you do, test it with lots of ammo. Especially what you will use in it for its primary purpose. Any misfires and it will require a rework - like going back to a heavier spring.