Those SS revolvers are just sexy.
- Thread starter Z400ACDC
- Start date
Whirlwind06
New member
IMO spend the 10 dollars on a set of snap caps, if you plan on doing thousands of dry fire trigger pulls.
Drying firing won't hurt but I really doubt the Ruger had someone sitting in front of the TV for an hour a night in mind when they stated dry firing is okay.
Edit to add:
Oh yeah here is a pic of one of mine
Drying firing won't hurt but I really doubt the Ruger had someone sitting in front of the TV for an hour a night in mind when they stated dry firing is okay.
Edit to add:
Oh yeah here is a pic of one of mine
Last edited:
Rainbow Demon
New member
Be sure the gun is well lubed. I've found that revolvers that were excessively dry fired when not well lubed can accumulate wear to moving parts besides the more commonly recognized possibility of damage to firing pin or hammer nose.
Cool
Lessee...Here are some, in no particular order...Dry fire
Live fire
Learn to shoot it double action
Get an action job if the action's gritty
Don't get in the bad habit of staging the trigger
Include ball & dummy drill to diagnose a flinch
Grip it high
Use an appropriate bullseye-type target (rather than a silhouette) when shooting for groups
Find a good revolver shooter in your area who's willing to spend some time with you at the range.
Start shooting matches with it
Found this on Rugerforum.net, and if anyone knows a thing about Ruger double actions, it's Iowegan. He wrote IBOK...if anyone doesn't know what this is, just google it.
Originally Posted by Iowegan
... Now for "Snap-Caps". These have to be about the most worthless things ever made and even worse, they give the owner a false sense of security. Snap-Caps do absolutely nothing for the gun's internal parts. Yes, they do cushion the firing pin but they don't even do a good job of that. Ruger's firing pins are made of a copper and steel alloy that are nearly immune to breaking so it is very rare to see one break. Snap-Caps are worth using in the older single and double barrel shotguns where firing pins are more subject to breaking. In modern guns, they do absolutely nothing except to occupy space in the chamber instead of a live round.
Originally Posted by Iowegan
... Now for "Snap-Caps". These have to be about the most worthless things ever made and even worse, they give the owner a false sense of security. Snap-Caps do absolutely nothing for the gun's internal parts. Yes, they do cushion the firing pin but they don't even do a good job of that. Ruger's firing pins are made of a copper and steel alloy that are nearly immune to breaking so it is very rare to see one break. Snap-Caps are worth using in the older single and double barrel shotguns where firing pins are more subject to breaking. In modern guns, they do absolutely nothing except to occupy space in the chamber instead of a live round.
Shotgun693
New member
Shooting a whole lot using poor techniques won't make you a good shot. Invest a few bucks in a shooting coach or instructor and learn the basics. THEN go shoot a lot.
buck460XVR
New member
This is why older, often shot revolvers have such smooth triggers. That "accumulated wear" as you put it, means all those parts that rub together as the trigger is pulled are polishing themselves. Years ago folks would suggest using tooth polish on those same parts while dry firing so they would smooth up quicker. Over lubing any firearm can make them attract and hold dirt and grit also, creating just as much, if not more wear, than shooting them dry. No real reason to have the firearm lubed any differently when dry firing it than when shooting it normally.
The primary reason for using Snap-Caps is safety. It forces you to open the cylinder and verify there are no live cartridges in the chambers. One secondary purpose is to practice reloading the gun from speed loaders, moon clips and/or speed strips. Snap-Caps are necessary for S&W revolvers that have the frame mounted firing pin. I broke two firing pins on my N-Frames (within hundreds of pulls) before no longer believing what I was told. I never broke a firing pin after that. Rugers likely do not need it, but I use Snap-Caps for the first two purposes mentioned. Save a pair of underwear and be eco-friendly by using Snap-Caps!
In addition to Grant Cunningham's book, read:
No Second Place Winner by William Jordan
Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting by Ed McGivern
Both books have additional tips and tricks for shooting revolvers. I find rapid fire extremely difficult with the revolver. It is a good challenge that I hope to one day master.
In addition to Grant Cunningham's book, read:
No Second Place Winner by William Jordan
Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting by Ed McGivern
Both books have additional tips and tricks for shooting revolvers. I find rapid fire extremely difficult with the revolver. It is a good challenge that I hope to one day master.
Last edited:
Rainbow Demon
New member
And why some are complete wrecks with near irreplaceable parts worn past the carburized layer.
I've used gunslick black grease for the purpose, but followed the instructions and cycled no more than six times before through cleaning and re lubing with regular gun grease or oil.
I would then detail strip and clean again after first trip to the range and always found some residue I'd missed.
True but "well lubed" does not mean sopping wet with oil, to me at least it means lubed properly and with fresh oil rather than oil thats gathered pocket lint and grit since last lubed.
There are conditions when no (oil or grease type) lube at all is best (for manually operated weapons), such as in a desert with windblown sand or high arctic where sub zero temps can congeal petroleum based oils.
In desert fighting troops sometimes covered the action of a bolt action rifle with a tube cut from a sock to keep out sand, and pistols were carried in a flap holster for good reason. Most sporting pistol holsters made for DA revolvers up through the 60's also had flaps to protect the mechanism from debris. A few service revolver holsters retained the flap as well.