Texas Sporting Rifle, circa. 2013

asmith

New member
Just finished my latest little project. NOS TC .50 cal. barrel, L&R Lock, Davis Triggers, Pecatonica CM4 stock. The addiction continues...:)







 

asmith

New member
Thanks Microgunner....:)

Arch308, funny you should ask, this makes 3 caplock rifles now but when I head to the range I always seem to grab my flintlock....:eek: I decided that if I ever could not get real bp I had better have a few that would shoot the subs....:D
 

bedbugbilly

New member
Beautiful job! A great combination of parts and that maple is beautiful! You can really be proud of that! And . . . oh yea . . . you could make one of those in a flintier! :D

Thanks for sharing with us - it's a beautiful rifle! :)
 

robhof

New member
robhof

Truly a work of art. That's a thing of beauty, be sure to give us a range report of that thing.:eek:
 

asmith

New member
Thanks for the kind words guys....:)
Sure Shot McGee, it took me a couple of months, but since I am retired I seldom work on my projects over a couple of hours a day and none at all on the weekends. I am still just learning, I did a long rifle last year and it basically turn out a thick fence post, I think I am ready to try another...Hopefully it will turn out better than the first.





 

bedbugbilly

New member
asmith - beautiful job on the full stock as well!

I'm curious as to what you are using to bring out the grain on the maple? I've used "aquas forte" with good luck but have never tried any of the newer "stains" such as Track of the Wolf offers, etc. Can you tell us what you did as far as the stain/finish? Many thanks!
 

PetahW

New member
.

Very nice work !

Have you thought about adding a patch/cap box to the buttstock, to carry caps & an extra nipple ?

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There's many/multiple sizes/styles, both plain & engraved that would be P.C. for your build(s).



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asmith

New member
Being a beginner I have not gotten into the tradition stains, I use Birchwood Casey walnut stain. I just brush it on and then wipe down with a soft wet cotton towel. I finish with many hand rubbed thin coats of Birchwood Casey true-oil, rubbing with 0000 steel wool between coats. After I get the finish like I want it, I let it cure for about 2 weeks and then give it a good rub down with Birchwood Casey stock sheen and conditioner to soften the shine a little. I guess everyone has their on way, but I get the finish I want and don't have to deal with the acid and neutralizing not to mention scorching the stock with the heat.....:D
 

bedbugbilly

New member
asmith - thanks for the information. It certainly seems to work and bring out the beautiful grain! I had a cabinet shop/custom millwork business so I appreciate "nice wood"! :)

I've used the aquas forte with pretty good success on curly maple but like you mention, when applying heat you have to be careful. I built a custom Hawken a number of years ago and the results were very nice but on the reddish tones. I keep looking at the stains that Track has and I think this next winter, when I'm hoping to build a Ohio rifle, I'll try it out as I'd like to get the "honey tones" I have a decent blank with pretty even curl throughout so would like to get the lighter honey tone to show it off.

You've done a beautiful job and it's 1st class work all the way! I hope you have children to pass these down to as they certainly would be great keepsakes!
 

Old Stony

New member
Takin' it to the woods the first time might be a trial for you. With a beautiful rifle like that I would spend all my time trying to keep it from touching anything that might leave a scratch on it. I know most of my muzzleloaders are customs and sometimes it's hard to get myself to actually use them for the intended purpose. I have a half stock .62 being restocked by a guy that I consider a premier muzzleloading builder and can hardly wait as he has assured me that he found a real nicely figured piece of maple. It will end up shooting whitetails by this next season.
Congrats on your beautiful job !!
 
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