Testors Model Paint and Stock Painting

[Savage110]

Hello All,
I just ordered a Choate Ultimate Sniper Stock for my Savage and I was wondering if anyone had experience painting the stock. I was thinking about using Testors Model Paint to spray paint it matte black, but if anyone can recommend anything that might work better I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks for any feedback you can give me.
I'll post pics once I'm done.
-Nic

 

[DMK]

I may be wrong but don't think model paint is tough enough for that type of plastic. Either way incorrect *prep* is the reason most paintjobs fail.

I'm going to say up front that I've never painted a plastic gunstock. However, I did paint a piece on ABS pipe once (It's an air intake tube in my car!) and it has seen some abuse and never chipped. I can rap it with a screwdriver with no ill effect. I used regular Krylon all purpose outdoor paint.

Here's How I did it. maybe you can gleen some pointers:

1) Scuff the plastic with some fine (perhaps 600 grit) sandpaper. This will give the paint something to bite into and greatly decrease it's tendancy to chip or peel.

2) Clean the plastic well. All plastic has oils from molding. All the oil needs to be removed. I like using Dawn dish detergent and warm water. Handle the parts to be painted with clean rubber gloves from this point foreward.

3) Use primer! Give it just one light coat. Again, it will give the paint something to bite into and greatly decrease it's tendancy to chip or peel.

4) Paint the item warm. Don't try to paint if the surface temp is lower than 65 degrees. Follow the paint can't instructions. Use a couple light coats rather than one heavy one.

5) For me, a final cover coat of Enterprise brand spray polyeurothane made a nice tough covercoat. You can get it in a satin finish.

 

[AK103K]

Testors model paints hold up well. I use the Military flats, they have a lot of colors to cover just about anything you want to try. I usually spray the base coat, usually the lightest color, then use a brush for the rest. After I'm done, I give it 3-4 coats of their clear flat lacquer to seal it. It also helps even out everything. Hoppes will remove the paint, so you dont want to leave it lay on the paint when you clean your gun, but the lacquer helps with this. Here's a couple of pics done with Testors paint:

The paint on the shotgun has been on there for over 15 years, so I think its durable enough. Its a little scratched up and worn in spots, but not bad for bouncing around in the truck all those years, huh?

 

[Savage110]

Thanks for the advice, guys. It's a big help. I'm gonna have to get to work quickly so I can post the results before the forums close down

 

[Ron L]

I never did a camo job, but I've painted a couple of stocks before. I used a quality automotive plastic primer, followed with a basecoat (multiple colors through an airbrush would work great) and then used a matte clearcoat. The clearcoat uses a hardener and, once cured, Hoppes, Rem-Oil, and other solvents and lubricants won't affect it, just like a regular automotive finish. The flexible matte clearcoat is VERY durable and has withstanded alot of abuse.