Surface Rust

[Azrael256]

I have a S&W model 36 revolver that has developed some surface rust. It sat in an open box in a closet for quite some time, so I'm not exactly surprised, but I would like to get it cleaned up. On the side of the frame, just below the hammer there are a few small rust spots, maybe 1-1.5mm across, as well as some tiny spots on the hammer, trigger, and along the back of the grip. The gun is kept much cleaner now, so I'm not worried about it spreading or causing any real damage to the gun, but it would be nice to have it clean and shiny. I seem to recall my grandfather telling me to use a soft eraser to remove surface rust, but I decided I would ask for some more advice before I tried anything.

Also, the wood grips are pretty much worn out (my father carried this pistol as a backup when he was a LEO) so I would like some recommendations as to what I should replce them with. I have looked at some slip-on rubber grips, but I think I would prefer something that would replace the wood itself to minimize the change in the way the grip feels. Any favorite brands and models of grips would be appreciated. Just need to know what's good to look at so I can find something that feels right.

 

[Snowdog]

As for surface rust, I removed a bit off my Llama Mini-max a while back very carefully using light strokes of a soft eraser with the area damp with 409 (coworkers recommendation). It worked well enough. Work at it briefly then wipe, continue until the rust appears to be gone.

As a warning, I would avoid using CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) solvent. It removes rust alright, and then some. I witnessed a friend just last year try to remove some rust from within the barrel of his nice Hawkens .50cal percussion rifle, only to swiftly remove the majority of the blueing from whatever it made contact with, which was most of the lockwork and barrel.

Good luck.

 

[Clayton]

You might also try a polishing creme like Flitz, Iosso, or MAAS.

Another idea, if this doesn't work, is some fine steel wool and Break-Free CLP.

www.flitz.com
www.maaspolish.com
www.iosso.com
www.break-free.com
www.corrosionx.com

 

[xcop]

rust removal

I have found that surface rust can usually be removed with fine steel wool and gun oil. Put the oil on the rusted area and rub lightly. stop every few seconds and clean up area and look to see if it is coming off......and that the finish is not. I have had great results doing this on old winchester rifles.

 

[James K]

Fine (0000) steel wool and oil works OK, but can scratch. I prefer copper or brass wool, sold as pot scrubbers in the super market. These leave a brass wash that is easily removed or can be darkened with cold blue. If the rust is raised, scrape it with a brass scraper or the mouth of a cartridge case. I find G96 Gun Treatment good for penetrating and stopping rust.

Jim

 

[Clayton]

Never thought of brass/copper wool. Thanks Jim .

www.g96.com

Jim, how do you remove the brass or copper left on the surface? I get a lot of brass marks on the ejection port of my Glock.

 

[MatthewM]

For PREVENTION, use BreakFree all over...
http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-rust.html

I went here and put in Grips <search> and the response was 570 items.
http://www.brownells.com/Product/index.asp

You could browse through these and note the companies and then see if those companies have web sites to get more pictures. From these sites, you could see who else carries them or just check cheap sites where you might want to buy other stuff.

 

[C.R.Sam]

Sometimes keepin it wet with Break Free for a day or so will soften the rust and it can then be flushed off without any scratching. The rust itself will be a bit abrasive, that why get what you can with flushing with oil, more Break Free, spray can of carb cleaner etc etc.

Sam

 

[Azrael256]

Ok, I tried just about everything you guys suggested. Thanks.

I got almost all of the superficial stuff off with an eraser and a few shots of CLP, but I did notice a little bit on the back of the handle that was a little bit deeper. I got the top of it off with some CLP and a little steel wool, but it went into the metal about a mm or so. The spot is only a few mm across, so I tried the idea with a used casing. I cut a case into a strip and gently scraped the rust out with it after a good soaking in penetrating oil. I got all of it out, and it does not appear that I scraped off any good metal along with it. This is now the only part that isn't nice and shiny, but I prefer a tiny pit to a rust spot. The gun, overall, looks really nice. I think soaking it in oil helped remove some of the grime that had built up on the finish over the years, so now it looks like new.

Only one question remains... I like to use Gunslick oil on my rifle because it makes the surface of the bolt look like a mirror, and obviously this greatly reduces friction and extends life. Will this stuff work on the internal parts of the pistol? I know the parts in the pistol are under a great deal more stress than the parts in my rifle (Marlin model 39), so I don't know if it would work that much better than just being thouroughly cleaned and oiled with an ordinary gun oil. Any thoughts?

 

[Clayton]

Outers(Gunslick) oil will work, but it cannot even compare to Break-Free CLP as a lubricant or rust preventative.

Nonetheless, use what you like, but use it often. Preventative Maintenance is a frequent and never-ending task.

I do caution against using Gunslick graphite paste/grease as it has been shown to damage certain metals.

There's really no need to use a different oil for every gun, as there are plenty of products that work great on all types of weapons, and many are CLP-type products and take the place of other solvents during regular maintenance. Products like Break-Free CLP, G96 Gun Treatment, MPC FP-10, and Eezox are some of the most effective products for complete gun care, bar none.

www.mpc-home.com
www.eezox.com
www.g96.com
www.break-free.com

Best regards,
Clay

 

[Lycanthrope]

MPC FP-10 inside and out on all my weapons. Ran 400 rounds through my 7STW and never needed to remove copper. It just never fouled.

The scent won't make your eyes water and won't spook deer.

One of the best kept secrets in lubrication. Period.

 

[blades67]

I've had excellent results using CLP and a nylon brush.

 

[Rezdog]

Soak the rusty areas with Liquid Wrench, Kroil, or light kerosene, then scrape it with a double edge razor blade held at a very low angle (like filleting the barrel). Slides over the healthy blue and takes the rust right off.

 

[MADISON]

When I want go get rid of Surface Rust, I spray the area with WD-40 and go over the area with 000 Steel Wool. Be aware that sometimes the rust is deep enough to require a little COLD BLUE.