I have been trying to get CCI CB's to cycle in my Marlin Papoose by lightening the bolt. I was told that I could drill it out to make it lighter, but I was worried that I would hit something vital inside it. No one seems to know of a lighter bolt being made, so I think this is my only option. Does anyone know enough about these guns to help? Thanks
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Sub sonic ammo from Marlin 70 ?
- Thread starter scouter27
- Start date
Well the firing pin is in there somewhere and you wouldn't want to drill through that. I've never tried to disassemble the bolt on a Marlin but I'm sure it can be done. How about lightening the recoil spring?
Sounds interesting. Do you have a way of remembering not to shoot regular LRs out of it when you are finished? I'm not trying to call you forgetful (although I can be) but some other shooter might not realize it has been modified.
Sounds interesting. Do you have a way of remembering not to shoot regular LRs out of it when you are finished? I'm not trying to call you forgetful (although I can be) but some other shooter might not realize it has been modified.
I might cold blue it, or something else to change the color. It will be in the case with the SS ammo. I don't think just lightening the spring would work. The entire firing pin is visible, so I won't hit that. There appear to be some kind of pins holding it together that I couldn't remove with some light tapping.
I couldn’t get your email to work so I figured I would post this here.
I took my Marlin apart and learned a lot about it.
It sure looks like you got it right the first time. Besides the firing pin on the bottom, the extractors on the sides and the pins and springs that go with them the bolt is one piece. It looks like you could drill the bolt without pulling the pins. At first I thought the "ears" on the back were just to add mass but it looks like they are the stops to keep the bolt from going back to far. The only other potential trouble spots I saw were the hole the recoil spring fits in to, the contact points where the bolt rides on the rails in the receiver, and the contact points on the bottom. It looks like none of these would have to be kept untouched, just keep enough material to retain their function.
On mine the bolt weighs 5.5 ounces and the operating handle weighed 0.5 ounces. I don’t know if that’s useful or not. I did notice the spring tension from the cartridge lifter (or whatever that thing is called) was a big part of the resistance against the bolt. I checked that by putting it back together without the recoil spring.
Separate from any modifications, I was surprised how much motion was in the trigger linkage and how unfinished some of the hidden surfaces were. I think after cleaning I will play around with mine and see if I can improve the trigger and overall smoothness of operation.
Lastly, there is probably no danger of this but please don’t get the impression I’m an expert gunsmith. You could easily listen to what I’m saying and still end up with a gun that doesn’t work right. I’m just a guy mechanically minded enough to like finding out how a gun works. It sure sounds like an interesting project. I would like to hear how it works out.
I took my Marlin apart and learned a lot about it.
It sure looks like you got it right the first time. Besides the firing pin on the bottom, the extractors on the sides and the pins and springs that go with them the bolt is one piece. It looks like you could drill the bolt without pulling the pins. At first I thought the "ears" on the back were just to add mass but it looks like they are the stops to keep the bolt from going back to far. The only other potential trouble spots I saw were the hole the recoil spring fits in to, the contact points where the bolt rides on the rails in the receiver, and the contact points on the bottom. It looks like none of these would have to be kept untouched, just keep enough material to retain their function.
On mine the bolt weighs 5.5 ounces and the operating handle weighed 0.5 ounces. I don’t know if that’s useful or not. I did notice the spring tension from the cartridge lifter (or whatever that thing is called) was a big part of the resistance against the bolt. I checked that by putting it back together without the recoil spring.
Separate from any modifications, I was surprised how much motion was in the trigger linkage and how unfinished some of the hidden surfaces were. I think after cleaning I will play around with mine and see if I can improve the trigger and overall smoothness of operation.
Lastly, there is probably no danger of this but please don’t get the impression I’m an expert gunsmith. You could easily listen to what I’m saying and still end up with a gun that doesn’t work right. I’m just a guy mechanically minded enough to like finding out how a gun works. It sure sounds like an interesting project. I would like to hear how it works out.