ammo.crafter
New member
Anyone have experience using tung oil as a stock finish?
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stock work
- Thread starter ammo.crafter
- Start date
Yep. Applied properly it's a great finish. Use the same techniques used on fine furniture.
Apply whatever stain first. Once tung oil is on there's no going back. The oil soaks into the wood about 1/4" and leaves a waterproof finish. The more you rub in, the better the sheen. Use a clean, lint free, cloth to apply it and rub it in until the wood gets warm. Let the stock sit over night and repeat. A good finish takes a week.
Tung Oil Finish is not the same as pure tung oil.
Apply whatever stain first. Once tung oil is on there's no going back. The oil soaks into the wood about 1/4" and leaves a waterproof finish. The more you rub in, the better the sheen. Use a clean, lint free, cloth to apply it and rub it in until the wood gets warm. Let the stock sit over night and repeat. A good finish takes a week.
Tung Oil Finish is not the same as pure tung oil.
It's my favorite. when used on figured wood it works better than anything thing else i have tried. I thin my 1st coat with mineral spirits (50-50), seems to get deeper in the pores, than go at it till all the grain is filled. I like the semi gloss finish i get with it, and if it ever needs a touch up, easy to do!
This is my first post so bear with me, after 30 yrs. I had to refinish my Win Model 88 it had a boiled linseed oil finish which was still shiny but worn in wear areas. Remove action from stock, sand with non-loading sand paper sanding with the grain starting with 120 grit, then 150, then 220 till scratches & all old finish are gone. Go to your local auto paint finish supplier and get
1 sheet each of 220, 320, 400, 600 & 800 grit wet/dry Tri-Mite paper.
Get a qt. of good quality gloss spar varnish e.g. McCloskeys and some cheap chip brushes. Thin first coat 3 parts spar to 1 part turps and apply liberally
with brush then using nitrile gloves sand in with 1/8 sht. 220 wet/dry using circular motion, this creates a slurry which will fill the pores, wipe down with lint free cloth and let dry overnight. Next day use spar straight and sand with
220 again and wipe down each day using finer grit. This finish is low luster, silky smooth and tough. You can stop at 600 grit if you are satisfied I have gone as far as 1200 on table tops. Be sure to put used rags into covered metal container and put outside as they can spontaneously combust.
1 sheet each of 220, 320, 400, 600 & 800 grit wet/dry Tri-Mite paper.
Get a qt. of good quality gloss spar varnish e.g. McCloskeys and some cheap chip brushes. Thin first coat 3 parts spar to 1 part turps and apply liberally
with brush then using nitrile gloves sand in with 1/8 sht. 220 wet/dry using circular motion, this creates a slurry which will fill the pores, wipe down with lint free cloth and let dry overnight. Next day use spar straight and sand with
220 again and wipe down each day using finer grit. This finish is low luster, silky smooth and tough. You can stop at 600 grit if you are satisfied I have gone as far as 1200 on table tops. Be sure to put used rags into covered metal container and put outside as they can spontaneously combust.
I've had the best results with Formby's High Gloss, but I've heard that Behr is good stuff too. Minwax never gave me good results. A good tung oil finish is time consuming at one coat per 24 hours, but there is nothing that comes close to the beauty/durability of 6 or more caost of tung on a nicely-figured stock.
Have you read this thread?
It's what I am going to try next time. I have done tung, linseed and a combo of both, but never this so it's next.
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231310
It's what I am going to try next time. I have done tung, linseed and a combo of both, but never this so it's next.
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231310