Sticking cylinder on S&W 8 shot .22 M63

[Lavan]

t is ...SPORADIC !!
Seems to be only a segment of the cylinder. And a ...random... segment at that.

I've cleaned everything. The ejector rod is tight. There is good lockup. Nearly imperceptible end play.

It ...seems... to work "better" if I apply some upward pressure on the cylinder when swinging out.
---Upward from a low position on the right side of cylinder to press it out.
The bolt cuts "LOOK" uniform. And since it's sporadic, I can't see where a tight bolt would be the culprit.

The bolt itself is clean and not burred.

It self-cures ...at times... if I double action click it PAST the trouble.

I find that it is better if I apply Herculean pressure on the thumbpiece that releases the cylinder.

It's the sporadic nature that is giving me fits.

 

[Unclenick]

Can you clarify? I can't tell if it is rotation or the swinging out of the cylinder that is sticking. From paragraph three, I assumed it was the latter, but then you mentioned double-action operation past the trouble, making it sound like the former.

 

[Lavan]

Swinging the cylinder out.

It ...seems... to work "better" if I apply some upward pressure on the cylinder when swinging out.
---Upward from a low position on the right side of cylinder to press it out.

The "double action" comment is that if I dry click it around, the problem seems to abate.

 

[4V50 Gary]

I bet the cylinder (ejector rod) needs to be tightened down. You have to remove the front screw (closest towards muzzle) on the right side of the frame. That allows you swing the cylinder/crane out and slip the crane/cylinder off the frame. The cylinder slides right out o the crane. Drop in three spent cartridges and place the ejector rod into a padded vise and turn (I think it's CCW). Then reaassemble.

 

[Lavan]

I have CLEANED it thoroughly. Sideplate off, Cylinder and crane out, Gun Scrubber, replaced after using some synthetic lube.

The ejector rod is tight. There is good lockup. Nearly imperceptible end play.

 

[Lavan]

I may have used the wrong word, "sticking" in the OP. Perhaps a better word would be "hanging up."
I have not noticed this while....shooting.
The hangup seems to be with the gun empty after cleaning or during any periodic inspection as I always pop out the cylinder whenever I pick up ANY revolver.
I believe it tends to be one chamber, but I have put blue layout fluid on the face of that chamber and there is NO evidence of rub or friction.
I've cleaned this thing thoroughly which makes it even tougher to diagnose.
The ejector rod is tight. There is good lockup. Nearly imperceptible end play.
I do know how the action operates. I've done trigger jobs and springs,etc. on Smiths and Colts.
I fear this will NEED to go to the factory.

IF..

I am taking it out to shoot in a couple days. I'll pay close attention to any strange event at that time.
The irritating thing is that I have never experienced any problems while out shooting this gun.

It would make it so simple if I had.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I ...WILL... tackle this damn thing til it surrenders.

 

[Aguila Blanca]

If Herculean pressure on the latch release seems to alleviate the issue, then rather than looking at the bolt I think I would focus on the latch and the release.

 

[Lavan]

I agree. And it was one of the first thoughts I had.
I'm not familiar with any adjusting of the cyl release button.
I sure examined it.
The pushy outy thingy that is in the recoil shield is even with the surface when pushed so I can't think of what would keep it from releasing.
AND....that factor of it being worse on a SINGLE CHAMBER is maddening.
It shows no scuffing of the chamber face on blue layout fluid.

 

[Unclenick]

I assume, when it is misbehaving, that you have held it sideways to look through the bottom of the frame window to confirm the bolt is fully retracted. If it were mine, I'd use a rotary table to check degrees of spacing between chambers, bolt notches, and the ejector's ratchet toes were all 45 degrees apart and that the cylinder face and breech ends were parallel. I think that last test could also be done just by using a feeler gauges to check that the barrel/cylinder gap remained uniform for all chambers and that the breech-to-recoil-shield spacing stayed uniform.

That said, while it feels tight in lockup, if it really never has the problem while shooting, the one obvious difference is the case heads could limit twisting when the release is depressed and it is only anchored at one end. So check to see if pushing the cylinder open from the back end is harder than pushing from the front end. I am grasping at straws here, so this is just stream of consciousness and not from diagnostic experience with the same problem.I've never seen it personally.

 

[Lavan]

Problem solved.
On another forum, one reader noticed my mention of the Herculean pressure I had to put on the cylinder release button.
.....and
he suggested it COULD be my ....arthritis... and the resulting weakness that involves.

I also..(hadn't tried because hadn't thought of it) slightly pushing to the rear on the cylinder when swinging it out.

BINGO !!!

Works fine when I do that. Also the jiggling.
Which also makes some sense as when I am actually SHOOTING, I would guess that I probably swing it out differently from when it is empty.

So I think there is a ...minor... misfit of the bolt on ONE cylinder.

Anyhow, now it is okay.

 

[Unclenick]

Without re-reading, I think you mentioned that pushing the cylinder release brought its surface flush with the breech face. Maybe it needs to protrude slightly? You could lay a strip of 0.001" brass shim across it, close the cylinder, then push on the release to see if it then moves freely. Since you had to push the cylinder to the rear to release it, I am guessing that won't help, but it is still part of the diagnostic magic. It would be worth calling S&W and asking if they know what's going on.

 

[Lavan]

misread post.

I can try that.

And I plan to take it out tomorrow and use live rounds that have never missed a beat.

 

[Lavan]

Shot it today. Not a hitch.
May have responded to the intense cleaning.

or..

J frames are less smooth than K-frames. Tried my old M36 Chief Spl and the cylinder is not AS limber as the K series.

Smaller frame just ain't as sweet.