Stainless versus blued?
- Thread starter Hello123
- Start date
Stainless guns have the advantage of not requiring as much cleaning and lubricating to keep the metal relatively free of corrosion.
But, there's really nothing wrong with a carbon steel gun, given a reasonable amount of care. For hunting purposes, I'd much rather take a non-stainless gun into the woods. (Less Flashy)
The stock, on the other hand, is a different issue. Even though you didn't inquire about the stock material, the composite stocks are probably much better suited for prolonged exposure to the elements than a nice wooden stock will be.
But, there's really nothing wrong with a carbon steel gun, given a reasonable amount of care. For hunting purposes, I'd much rather take a non-stainless gun into the woods. (Less Flashy)
The stock, on the other hand, is a different issue. Even though you didn't inquire about the stock material, the composite stocks are probably much better suited for prolonged exposure to the elements than a nice wooden stock will be.
I live in WA state, and we get a lot of drizzle here during hunting season. As long as you take good care of the rifle, blued vs stainless is pretty much a wash. I wipe down the guns with a sheepskin with Outers Gun Grease on it after every hunt. Pretty dependable.
If you are inclined to hunt, toss the rifle in the back and drive home before cleaning it, stainless might be a better option. I don't think there is any difference in the woods as far as visibility of the metal, as long as it isn't shiny bright.
I like fiberglass stocks for their lack of warping. I had a really pretty myrtlewood stock on my 7X57 start warping on me, and before I knew it I couldn't hold zero from one week to the next. Fiberglass may not be pretty, but it is tops in wet weather.
If you are inclined to hunt, toss the rifle in the back and drive home before cleaning it, stainless might be a better option. I don't think there is any difference in the woods as far as visibility of the metal, as long as it isn't shiny bright.
I like fiberglass stocks for their lack of warping. I had a really pretty myrtlewood stock on my 7X57 start warping on me, and before I knew it I couldn't hold zero from one week to the next. Fiberglass may not be pretty, but it is tops in wet weather.
FirstFreedom
Moderator
If you had said 2 or 3-day hunts in rainy climates, then I'd say blued will be fine if you clean when you get home, but for week-long, I'd definitely look at the stainless. As long as I'm in this rat race to make a living, about the longest hunt I'll be getting in all likelihood is Thanksgiving weekend, Thurs-Sun, so blued is fine for me. But you start to see rust after 2 or 3 days in a very humid climate, esp. in the summer time.
I learned the value of stainless steel with handguns. After carrying a blued revolver in a car and on me it showed some corrosion even after often wiping it down with an oily rag everytime I unholster it at home. Corrosion started under the grips and little gaps in between parts. I loved that revolver but I ended up trading for a stainless one. My point is when it rains or humid the metal buried in the stock won't get a wipe down and will have corrosion on it if not taken care of. josh
Even though I have a number of blued guns
I prefer Stainless Steel now. I'm lazy... don't mind cleaning guns on my own time... but when I get around to it. I've noticed the biggest problem with blued guns is sweat. If you don't wipe them down right after shooting them in the summer time and you got some good salty sweat on them, then you got a rust spot.
I prefer Stainless Steel now. I'm lazy... don't mind cleaning guns on my own time... but when I get around to it. I've noticed the biggest problem with blued guns is sweat. If you don't wipe them down right after shooting them in the summer time and you got some good salty sweat on them, then you got a rust spot.
ive seen stainless rust too. rifle stainless has softer corrosive meterial added to it for accuracy (thats what im told im sure ill be corrected
) there not 100% medical or food grade stainless. i only have a few stainless guns and there pistols, but never the less i treat them as if they were blued. just thought id point it out
) there not 100% medical or food grade stainless. i only have a few stainless guns and there pistols, but never the less i treat them as if they were blued. just thought id point it outjhgreasemonkey
New member
I hunt washington state too and all my guns currently and past are blued. I have never had a problem. I clean the gun after hunting season and call it good. It rains a lot here so I am convinced that blued is okay as long as you clean and oil it. But now I am paranoid that my wood stocks will warp after reading what Scorch had to say! I have heard that finishing them with marine spar varnish is one way to go but I dont like my guns to be too shiny.
I have heard that finishing them with marine spar varnish is one way to go but I dont like my guns to be too shiny.Actually, one of the best finishes used to use is Brownells Acraglas thinned down with Acraglas thinner. It soaks into the wood and hardens in about 3 days. Sand, put on a thin skin coat, let it sit, then NOTHING will ever get into the stock. The thinner and Acraglas are expensive, but it turns out really good. Now Brownells sells a finish they call Acra Finish for stocks. Don't know if it is the same stuff. Be interesting to try it on a rifle. I just happen to have a 223 that will need the stock refinished soon.
Hey jhgreasemonkey, I'm in Puyallup too. If you want to get together sometime, PM me and we'll set something up.
Hey jhgreasemonkey, I'm in Puyallup too. If you want to get together sometime, PM me and we'll set something up.
glockfan1963
New member
stanless vs blue
stanless does resist rusting more then blue but still can rust if left in damp temps should still be wiped down from the oils in our own hands and stored in warm dry places even if you dont use a firearm for a while should still inspect and wipe it down occasionally i own glocks and so clamed the tensifer coating they treat the gun with is almost hard as a diamond and there for said not to rust or almost rust proof but i take care of my guns the way some people wash and wax there cars good care for a firearm weather blue or stanless should never rust and also firearms can be restored so if it is someting thats centimental its worth looking in to
stanless does resist rusting more then blue but still can rust if left in damp temps should still be wiped down from the oils in our own hands and stored in warm dry places even if you dont use a firearm for a while should still inspect and wipe it down occasionally i own glocks and so clamed the tensifer coating they treat the gun with is almost hard as a diamond and there for said not to rust or almost rust proof but i take care of my guns the way some people wash and wax there cars good care for a firearm weather blue or stanless should never rust and also firearms can be restored so if it is someting thats centimental its worth looking in to
sholack (used on boats)will keep the water out but it looks hiddious and kreasode used on powerpoles will too but looks just as hiddious. i dont know what the good stuff for guns is the last one i did i just used left over uerathain from a job but i know on wood floors that on dark woods water based coats look the best on darker woods.