Solvents, Oils, Preservatives. Gun cleaning help, please.

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Pep in CA

New member
I've used CLP and I've used Balistol as solvents. I also have a bottle of gun oil that the salesman at my gun store told me I should use but I don't really know what it is, other than some sort of gun oil.

I use Rig grease on external metal parts of my long guns, i.e. barrels and receivers. They look great and seem to hold up.

But neither CLP nor Balistol seem to disolve carbon buildup the way I think they should. I have to scrub quite a bit to remove the carbon.

I'm looking for a new solvent. I've never tried Hoppe's #9. Maybe I should.

Your thoughts on solvents?
 
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Hal

New member
I've had great luck with a piece of Lead-Away cloth.

Only on stainless or nickel though.

It will attack bluing.
 
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pat701

New member
I have used generic brake cleaner, and Kroil (for lead build up) for 16 years now. Long range, high power shooters use Kroil to clean their long guns. You will have to google up Kroil in firearms to get more info, i don't have the time to write it here. Try both with what you are doing already.;):D:cool:
 
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Dufus

New member
Carbon is the most tenacious fouling that you will encounter.

Most commercial carbon cleaners are essentially soap & water, but the commercial cleaners have a few more secret ingredients to justify the cost of the product.

I have used Bore Tech C4 with some success. It has to be applied, allowed to soak, then scrubbed.....with repeated applications.

Also, some commercial automotive solvents such as injector cleaners can remove carbon by the same technique as described with the Bore Tech C4.

You have to be very cautious with the injector cleaners and wear protection and do it outside since those chemicals are volatile.

As I said and to reemphasize, carbon is the toughest of all fouling to remove so you have to work on it to remove it.

IME, Hoppe's #9 will not work on carbon no matter who says what.
 
5

50 shooter

New member
I split it up, I like using Boretech Eliminator for copper fouling even though they say it will cut carbon also. For carbon I like using Slip2000 Carbon Killer, used one after another it doesn't take long to clean your barrel.

The thing with Boretech is it's a surfectant and after running some down your barrel, you need to let it sit for a few minutes to do its work. Or you can plug your barrel and let it sit overnight, run a jag down it and check it.
 
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Mike38

New member
Nothing in my gun room other than good old Hoppe's #9 and half a quart of 5w20 synthetic motor oil. Been that way for 20+ years and it will be that way until the day I die.
 
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gwpercle

New member
Hoppe's #9 is an old school solvent , it does the job but be careful with it on plastic's.
It does have the #9 smell.
Hoppe's Elite Gun cleaner is not as aggressive, removes carbon , is safe for plastic guns and doesn't have much of a smell. However the stuff is pricey .
Now if you are looking for an old school , use on steel guns , cleaner and bore solvent that you can make a gallon of for less than $20.00 it's called " Ed's Red Bore Cleaner" this was developed by C. E. "Ed" Harris , this is my serious cleaner for bore and exterior.

1 part Dexron IV (or later) GM Automatic Transmission Fluid (not synthetic ATF)
1 part deodorized K-1 Kerosene
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits ( low or no odor is best)
1 part Acetone ( some leave out the acetone but it really helps remove carbon)

I buy a quart of each item at wally mart, it makes a gallon for less than $20.00 and will clean like nobody's business. Because of the acetone do not let it stand on wooden stock finishes or some plastics . The stuff doesn't harm a toothbrush , my scrubbing tool of choice .

Use solvents for cleaning and oils for lubrication the Clean Lube Protectants CLP try to do it all but usually fall short. Believe it or not , 1 part ATF + 1 part K-1 kerosene is a good lubricant and a very decent CLP . I call it the poor mans CLP.
Gary
 
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AzShooter

New member
M-Pro 7 is my choice as a cleaner, then I use Brian Enos's Slide Glide on the bolt or in the interior of my revolver and some Lucus Oil. For my compensator I use Slip 2000 to get the lead out.
 
5

50 shooter

New member
One other thing about Boretech and Slip2000, their products are non hazardous and safe to use indoors.

That's the best part about advances in the gun industry and that includes cleaning products. Don't get me wrong, I like to use some of these other cleaners. Alot of them smell horrendously terrible and will probably knock you out if used in an enclosed space. Not to mention the fact that your significant other won't be happy having to smell it.

Be safe!
 
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H

HiBC

New member
I just don't care to go look up sources and quotes right now,whether you believe me or not does not matter.Whatever makes you happy!
Firearms stainless typically contains sulphur for machinability.
Its not happy with chlorinated hydrocarbons such as Brake Clean and Carb Cleaner.
I'll use it for a specific degrease job,like cold blue touch up,but I generally avoid using it. I will not put it in a stainless bore.

I do have a small touch up type spray paint gun,Binks style. For flushing something clean I may use it with lacquer thinner.
 
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FITASC

New member
You want NON-chlorinated brake cleaner - which most of them are now, if you're going that route. A can runs about $3. Be aware, that it is not always friendly to some plastics, but is great for cleaning the bores of rifles and shotguns.
 
L

Longhorn1986

New member
"Hoppe's #9 is an old school solvent , it does the job but be careful with it on plastic's."

And don't use it on nickle-plated firearms. It'll dissolve the copper under the nickle plate.
 
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cw308

New member
Pep in CA
Im a benchrest shooter 308 cal. I to have tried many cleaners , after having a barrel change I asked the gunsmith what they recommended , KG - 1 for carbon & KG - 12 for copper. After using the KG - 1 dry patch then I use the old faithful Hoppe's #9 bore solvent then dry patch . l shoot once a week so I keep my bore dry , no oil . Never shoot high power with oil in the barrel. Also the KG stuff has no oder , can clean indoors with the windows closed.
 
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Pep in CA

New member
It seems, as always, that trial & error is the best method, but one should also consider the advice from those with experience. Such is the case here and I appreciate the advice given.

That being said, I am going to try M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner next. I just ordered some from Amazon.

For a lubricant and protectant, I'm staying with Rig grease. It is the only cleaning product that I can say I'm impressed with so far. Also, although I admire the ingenuity of home-made products, I am not ready to go that route.

I will let you know how well M-Pro 7 works compared to CLP and Ballistol.

Cheers.
 
D

Dufus

New member
We all learn by trial.....there are no errors in cleaning other than using the stuff outside of what it was designed for.

Don't mix them up. Dry your barrel before using something else.

I will not use an abrasive cleaner for anything. I will not use something that has ammonia in it.

Pick something and try it, see if it works for you.

Over 55 years I have tried most of them and have settled on a few.
 
P

Pep in CA

New member
Bravo, Dufus. I agree. I am willing to try new cleaning products but none that reviewers say cause any damage.

I should elaborate. The carbon build-up I mentioned is actually on my revolver ... where the barrel meets the frame. Neither CLP nor Ballistol dissolved the build up and I eventually used a flat head screwdriver to scape it off. Not good.

Since I've only used CLP or Ballistol on all my guns, I wondered how much carbon residue I've left behind in the barrels of my long guns. I now presume it is a lot but I don't know.

Gotta try something different. Trial and error at best.

Cheers.
 
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