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Sighted in my 30/30 Sunday...
- Thread starter jrothWA
- Start date
Twohawks11
New member
This might help
https://www.ronspomeroutdoors.com/blog/best-30-30-zero-range-for-deer-hunting
I’m shooting hand loads ftx 160 bullets with Leverevolution powder and getting 2” high at 100 yds and hitting pie plate groups at 200 - with bead on target.
At 50 yards I’m 2” high with target on bead
I’m not saying that you “should” do what you’ve asked but you certainly can.
I did basically
https://www.ronspomeroutdoors.com/blog/best-30-30-zero-range-for-deer-hunting
I’m shooting hand loads ftx 160 bullets with Leverevolution powder and getting 2” high at 100 yds and hitting pie plate groups at 200 - with bead on target.
At 50 yards I’m 2” high with target on bead
I’m not saying that you “should” do what you’ve asked but you certainly can.
I did basically
I don't like to ever have to remember to hold low. It just isn't natural and seems confusing to me. In the excitement of having to make a quick decision at closer ranges (where most shots are taken), there is a good chance you'll forget and shoot over the target. When taking longish shots most of us will take more time to set up the shot and remember where to hold.
Remember, the kill zone on a typical whitetail is about 10". If you're hitting 10" low at 200 yards you only have to hold 4-5" over a deer's back to put the shot right in the center of the kill zone. Even if you hold right on the top of the back the bullet should still be in the kill zone, although just on the edge.
And then there is brush. There is no such thing as a bullet shooting through brush without being deflected. The key is to shoot though openings in the brush. When people take cartridges like 30-30 and zero them at 150-200 yards at some point the bullet will end up 6-7" above point of aim. Which makes it more difficult to thread bullets through those openings.
I'd zero for the ranges where I anticipate most of my shots to be taken. Which means no more than 100 yards. Then if I wanted to shoot farther, I'd get to the range and figure out my drops. With a 30-30 about 200 yards is as far as you need to be shooting anyway.
Remember, the kill zone on a typical whitetail is about 10". If you're hitting 10" low at 200 yards you only have to hold 4-5" over a deer's back to put the shot right in the center of the kill zone. Even if you hold right on the top of the back the bullet should still be in the kill zone, although just on the edge.
And then there is brush. There is no such thing as a bullet shooting through brush without being deflected. The key is to shoot though openings in the brush. When people take cartridges like 30-30 and zero them at 150-200 yards at some point the bullet will end up 6-7" above point of aim. Which makes it more difficult to thread bullets through those openings.
I'd zero for the ranges where I anticipate most of my shots to be taken. Which means no more than 100 yards. Then if I wanted to shoot farther, I'd get to the range and figure out my drops. With a 30-30 about 200 yards is as far as you need to be shooting anyway.
Seedy Character
New member
Exactly what jmr40
.30-30 should be dead on - 1" high @100. Most shots will be 50-100 yards and mostly likely, fadt.
At 175-200, you most likely, have mire time to prepare, know it is long, take a good rest, aim just over back.
Do a lot of shooting at 200 yards and learn what 200 yards looks like.
I have seen 125-150 yard shots miss, because the shooter swore UT 200 or a little more and the shot high.
I shoot 120 gr bullets in .30-30, higher velocity and flatter trajectory.
Reload only, lack of bullet selection from factory is the problem. Though, better. When I was a teen, 170gr was ALL you find. 150gr slowly started showing up. The 160FTX is a great bullet.
.30-30 should be dead on - 1" high @100. Most shots will be 50-100 yards and mostly likely, fadt.
At 175-200, you most likely, have mire time to prepare, know it is long, take a good rest, aim just over back.
Do a lot of shooting at 200 yards and learn what 200 yards looks like.
I have seen 125-150 yard shots miss, because the shooter swore UT 200 or a little more and the shot high.
I shoot 120 gr bullets in .30-30, higher velocity and flatter trajectory.
Reload only, lack of bullet selection from factory is the problem. Though, better. When I was a teen, 170gr was ALL you find. 150gr slowly started showing up. The 160FTX is a great bullet.
bamaranger
New member
zero
I zero my deer rifles that are chambered for intermediate powered cartridges "on" at 100 yds. No longer have a 30-30, but the 7.62x39mm and the .44 mags serve the same role. For me, those are tree stand and thick cover rigs, and shots have always been close, many well under 50 yds.
Yes, I realize a higher point of impact would gain me a bit of "hold on" range, but I just don't use those intermediate cartridges at those distances. I'm fortunate to be able to tailor my rifles to the conditions, if I need more reach, I take a different rifle from the "full power" class. In all the years of swapping rifles back and forth for hunts, I've never been caught where I don't have enough gun to make the shot.
For what it's worth, I zero my .243 and up rifles +2" at 100. I do not like the oft recommended +3" zero, as I feel it puts the bullet too high at mid range .
I zero my deer rifles that are chambered for intermediate powered cartridges "on" at 100 yds. No longer have a 30-30, but the 7.62x39mm and the .44 mags serve the same role. For me, those are tree stand and thick cover rigs, and shots have always been close, many well under 50 yds.
Yes, I realize a higher point of impact would gain me a bit of "hold on" range, but I just don't use those intermediate cartridges at those distances. I'm fortunate to be able to tailor my rifles to the conditions, if I need more reach, I take a different rifle from the "full power" class. In all the years of swapping rifles back and forth for hunts, I've never been caught where I don't have enough gun to make the shot.
For what it's worth, I zero my .243 and up rifles +2" at 100. I do not like the oft recommended +3" zero, as I feel it puts the bullet too high at mid range .
Everybody has their own methods for sighting in their rifles at a given range. Here's mine.
The crappy iron sights or cheap scopes on many lever actions have saved countless deer's lives.
My method is "keep it simple":
* Most deer are shot under 100 yds. If you're shooting a 30-30, chances are you are shooting pretty close, so sight it in close.
* If you sight it in at 100 yds, you can hold dead on from 0 to 150 yds. Most likely you can't see or hit beyond that anyway if you have a cheap scope or are using iron sights. I know I couldn't when I got my first 30-30.
The crappy iron sights or cheap scopes on many lever actions have saved countless deer's lives.
My method is "keep it simple":
* Most deer are shot under 100 yds. If you're shooting a 30-30, chances are you are shooting pretty close, so sight it in close.
* If you sight it in at 100 yds, you can hold dead on from 0 to 150 yds. Most likely you can't see or hit beyond that anyway if you have a cheap scope or are using iron sights. I know I couldn't when I got my first 30-30.