Should You Lubricate Your Snake?

:eek: No, seriously..... :confused:

I just bought a Hoppes Bore Snake to clean my 9mm and .380 pistols. I've always used a rod with brass brush and patches over a jag tip. This bore snake thingy seems a little strange, but is supposed to work quickly.

Well, upon opening the package, I can't find any instructions about using nitro powder solvent or any type of solvent or lubricant on it. In fact, the instructions talk about washing it with your clothes when it gets dirty! :eek:

So, do you just use it dry? If so, does it do an adequate job of cleaning your bore? I guess I'm from the old school, and can't imagine that cleaning your bore without using Hoppes #9 or something like Strike-Hold would be effective.
 
So, do you just use it dry? If so, does it do an adequate job of cleaning your bore? I guess I'm from the old school, and can't imagine that cleaning your bore without using Hoppes #9 or something like Strike-Hold would be effective.
A lot of this is up to individual opinion, but I'll offer mine.

The bore snake really isn't meant for a comprehensive cleaning of the gun, but as a stopgap until I can break the weapon down and do things thoroughly. I generally shoot my carry gun several times a week, and there's no point to doing the whole shebang every time, so I'll usually run a dry snake through the barrel and cylinders and wipe off any visible gunk.

Some folks soak the area between the brass lead and the bristles with a bit of solvent/oil before pulling it through, but I'm not sure if that stuff eats away at the fabric. I've had to use tweezers to remove the snakes from barrels when they've come unraveled and stuck.
 

Dave R

New member
I sometimes squirt a wee bit of CLP on the brush end of a snake. But I'm not sure it helps anything.
 

FrankenMauser

New member
I put some Hoppe's #9 on the brush, and the 'tail' end (the fold). It seems to help, and hasn't hurt any of mine, yet. (My .270 snake is about 12 years old, used with Hoppes since day one, and shows no ill effects. The other snakes are not as old, but also don't have any issues from the solvents.)
 

leadcounsel

Moderator
I spray oil/solvent/cleaner in the chamber and barrel and then run the snake through, so by default it's pulling solvent along with it.
 
I spray a little CLP on them. Also not sure it does anything. I would not use just hoppes as that is going to remove the oil that is there. I don't want the gun to be sitting around unprotected for even a few days.
 

blume357

New member
Interesting post because I would like to know if there is a correct way to clean a barrel with a bore snake. I just spray a goodly bit of CLP or such down the barrel and run the snake through it.... then again they always look clean to me before and after.... I think you still will leave a protective coating on and in the metal after this. ??
 

qcpunk

New member
I remember reading somewhere that to put some solvent on the weave prior to the brass bristles, then some oil at the fattest part of the weave after the bristles, like near the "looped" end. That is what I have done for the past 2 months with great success. My bore is super clean and shiny :D I like shiny things!
 

qcpunk

New member
Yeah, the boresnake can be a bit difficult to pull throught. I don't think they're BSing when they say it has 160X more effective cleaning surface than "old school Brush and Patch."
 

Mike38

New member
Speaking of Bore Snakes, while hoping I’m not getting off topic too much here….
Many shooters speak against aluminum cleaning rods because they claim partials of whatever become embedded into the rod and act as a file on the bore. Well what about bore snakes? If something was going to get embedded into a cleaning device, it would get stuck in a bore snake easier and quicker then an aluminum rod. Do the same people that hate aluminum rods hate bore snakes too?
 

Mal H

Staff
Good point Mike38, but embedded bits and pieces is not why I'm not in favor of using aluminum rods.

From a chemistry standpoint, it is one of the least desirable metals to be running down your bore if it gets oxidized (and it always does - that's the nature of aluminum). Oxides of aluminum are very hard, much harder than the Al itself and usually harder than steel. Some common Al oxides are corundum, rubies, sapphires, etc. I'm not saying there are minuscule sapphires growing on your Al rod, impurities are required for that, but corundum is a definite possibility.
 

oneounceload

Moderator
I use Shooter's Choice on the area right in front of the bristles on my cleaning one, and Hoppe's 9 on the same area of the one I use for oiling it after.

I would NEVER wash anything gun-related in momma's washer or dishwasher. A plastic bucket with DAWN and warm/hot water will clean it (and your Tico Tool) very easily and quickly. Then rinse with cold water and dry in the sun.
 

zfk55

New member
All of our snakes, .22 cal, .270, .30 cal, .41, .45, 20 guage and 12 guage are all stored in individual zip-type plastic bags that have Hoppes #9 dripped into them. After each use we drip a little more onto the snake in the bag and zip it up.
We follow up with dry patches on a jag.
Snakes are periodically put through soap and water washing, drying and then treated with Hoppes and back into the zipped bags.

zfk55
 

edward5759

New member
I take mine

and wash it in dawn dish soap if I change it from one gun to another of the same caliber. I like shooters choice on it!
 

Avenger

New member
One thought on washing a bore snake in the clothes washer: I don't want to have to take apart the washer to unwrap it from the agitator. I've had to do that with hood strings before, and it's not a fun task. A little mesh bag would be a good idea, or just hand wash.
 

JoeBob

New member
When in doubt, lube your snake :cool:

I always use Breakfree CLP on my bore snakes...rifles, pistol, shotgun.
 
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