Should I put a brake on my .308 varmint Rifle?

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imq707s

New member
I have a CZ 550 .308 with the Varmint Laminate stock in it. It's a real tack driver (3/8 or under 5 shot groups at 100yds), but I would like to reduce the muzzle jump a little so I can keep the scope on target after I pull the trigger.

I've been thinking about putting a brake on it. Do any of you guys run brakes on your bolt rifles? Any drawbacks? Will I have to rework my loads to compensate for the brake at all? I don't want to loose accuracy at all.

Any info would be great. Thanks

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B

Bogie

New member
With a muzzle brake it'll kick less, but it'll be downright obnoxious to be around. Fine of you shoot/hunt by yourself, but if you go out with buddies, they'll hate it.
 
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azredhawk44

Moderator
It'll be weight at the end of the barrel, and as such it will change the harmonics of it. You'll most likely need to re-work your loads to find peak accuracy again.
 
A

Art Eatman

Staff in Memoriam
I don't understand the importance of not losing sight of the target. Never has made any difference for me, whether rabbit, coyote, Bambi or prairie dog. I know on prairie dogs that I'll see the dust kick from a miss before the scope bounces off target, and the other stuff's usually just lying dead.

I'd hate to go through a whole new load-development process to re-tune, particularly if the new package wouldn't really re-tune. I'm pretty much wired up for the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." school of thought.

:), Art
 
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DnPRK

New member
If you add a brake, be prepared for your 3/8" rifle to become a 1 3/8" rifle. Like azredhawk44 stated, it will change the barrel harmonics.
 
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LittleLebowski

New member
Why are you running a .308 as a varmint rifle? A 22-250, .204 Ruger, or even a .223 would probably make much more sense and save you money.
 
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odsixer

New member
Do you use 168's for varmint? I've been thinking about trying the 110vmax but I've read about accuracy problems.

Back on topic, what about a mercury supressor in the stock. I've heard these help recoil and maybe the added weight would lessen muzzle jump? just a thought. Your other alternative is to get a screw on brake and take it off when shooting alongside others. you POI will change but it shouldn't be too bad. let us know how it turns out.

P.S. I don't think I'd mess with something that shoots that well;)
 
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VAHunter

New member
110 Hornady varmint bullets

I've loaded them up with W748 for my Rem M700VS in .308 win for woodchucks. Accuracy at 100 yds was right around .875" for 5 shots. Didn't expect them to shoot that well, though this particular rifle doesn't seem to care what's going through it.
 
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stubbicatt

New member
I must say that those who staunchly believe that a brake will adversely affect accuracy haven't seen those fellas shooting the 338 Lapua or other such cartridges at 1200 meters + Those feats of marksmanship are really phenomenal, but it comes at the price of powder, ball, and practice, practice, practice.

I think that your choice of brake will be important, and yes it will reduce recoil and jump, keeping your muzzle "flat".

Yours is a much more accurate bolt actioned design, but with the Cooley compensator on one of my semi auto 308s I'm still getting less than an inch for 10 shots at 100 yards, and it is a whole lot more enjoyable to shoot now with the brake installed.

The CZ 770 (?) sniper setup has an optional single chamber muzzle brake, and that rifle will flat SHOOT!
 
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SST

New member
I have a muzzle brake on my 20BR. It's a heavy rifle with a #7 Shilen barrel, so recoil is not an issue at all, especially with a diminutive .204 caliber bullet weighing 33gr. The reason is muzzle lift. There is none whatsoever! I can easily watch bullets pass through paper at the range without the barrel moving at all. If you want to approach that with a .308, you certainly have your work cut out for you, but a muzzle brake will get you part of the way there. But like mentioned above, you may have to work up a new load, but so what!
 
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firechicken

New member
Sounds to me like you have a valid reason to buy another rifle! :D A 10 or 11 lb rifle chambered in 223 Rem with a 26" barrel is an absolute pleasure to shoot.
 
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CPTMurdoc30

New member
I would leave well enough alone.

I am looking for more loads to try in my 308. Might have to look at yours.

I have some 42gr reloader 15 loaded and I am thinking of going with some others and Vaget. Need to order more bullets.

Have you thought about using the new Sierra 135gr MatchKings? They are lighter so as to cause slightly less muzzle jump.

You might also thing about getting a dog-gone-good or Bulls bag. That you can pinch down on the rifle.

If you are shooting varmints with a 308 (I love doing this) you know know if you hit them. There will be a nice red blotch where the critter was standing.
 
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mshunter

New member
it will be loud as hell....

i think you should leave it alone... .308 is kind of an overkill for varmint...

id rather get another rifle in .223

your .308 shoots too good to mess with it... i dont see the huge deal with a little barrel movement after you shoot.... if you hit the first time youll know it.. if you miss youll see dust, grass or whatever fly up...
 
4

44 AMP

Staff
Simple solution

Use a lower power setting on your scope. The wider field of view will allow you to keep your target in the view field during recoil. Putting a muzzle brake on your rifle will change the barrel harmonics, and you will have to work up your loads all over again, possibly never again reaching the same level of accuracy.

An alternate idea would be to have the barrel mag-na-ported. The cutting of the tiny slots in the barrel should not have much of an effect on barrel harmonics, certainly not as much as the addition of a muzzle break.

The easiest and cheapest solution, if you want to keep the target in your field of view is to just use a lower magnification when you shoot. I have 6x-18x and 6x-24x scopes on some of my rifles, and while the magnification is nice to get a close look, I dial back to 9x or less to actually shoot. I find that my heartbeat and heat mirage are a lot less noticable at lower powers, and I tend to shoot a bit better.
 
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Yithian

New member
Two advantages are possible with a brake.
Less recoil is your reason.

Tighter groups is another result if it is placed on correctly.
It stops the turbulence from altering the bullet just after it leaves the barrel.
Those gasses are traveling faster than the bullet, at that moment, and can foul the air in front of it. Particularly, on a boat-tail bullet.
The break, with tight enough tolerances, will catch and divert that fouling gas and turbulence.

Besides, it is your rifle.
You do to it what you want. If others don't like it, they can go and fetch a soda or snack when you use it.
Just be sure and wear hearing protection. Especially in a blind.
Oh, and don't leave that drink on the bench. lol

Part experience... and part teaching.
 
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Powderman

New member
Here's a suggestion, and a possible quick fix--works REALLY well if you have that rifle free-floated....

Get, and learn to use properly, the good old military 2-piece leather sling.

The key is to have the rifle TIGHT into your shoulder upon firing, and tightly secured by the sling.

I have fired, so far, my 1903 Springfield and Garand with .30-06 ball ammo, my M1A NM with varied loads, and my Savage 10FP with Federal GM Match. The tight leather sling, properly applied, does the following:

1. Muzzle climb is almost totally eliminated.
2. Recovery, therefore, is much faster.
3. Recoil is almost completely attenuated--the rifle does not get the running start to your shoulder.

Before spending hundreds on that muzzle brake, try the sling first. You may like it. :D
 
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