Should I have to load a Semi-Auto hotter than a bolt gun?

Lavid2002

New member
Ive been using the suggested starting load for .223 and the casings are always filthy because the pressure is too low. This eventually leads to the chamber getting so dirty the bolt wont even close.
On the other hand when I load my .308 to the sugg. starting load I get GREAT results, a clean chamber and excellent groupings. Is it standard to have to load .223 hotter so it seals the chamber?
 

wncchester

New member
"Is it standard to have to load .223 hotter so it seals the chamber? "

Uhhh...You best not. What's true enough for a bolt rifle has no application in your autoloader. Seems they open somewhat earlier than most of us can work a bolt so the chamber pressure is still fairly high when extraction begins. Don't think higher pressure is going to stop that.
 

dlb435

New member
What powder are you using? Ball is best for 223 REM auto loaders. There is a huge differance in 308 and 223. A powder that works great in 308 may not work best in a 223.
 

Lavid2002

New member
I like using IMR4895, it makes SICK loads for the .308, there super accurate. Heres a few examples of loads that always come out with signs of low pressure (Dirty, Dirty case walls and a chamber thats o dirty the bolt wont even close because the rounds wont seat...thats how dirty the chamber gets.)
*all loads use rem 7 1/2 small rifle BR primers*
23.1 grains of benchmark, 52 grain HPBT bullet, 2.25 OAL

M193, 23 grains IMR4895, Seated Mid-Con

75 grain HPBT, 20.3 grains XMR2015

M855 22 grains IMR 4895

Again, Im a new reloader. These are my first batches that came out with low pressure. Ive never made a load thats above the reccomended starting point. Most if not all of these are 4 grains or more below the maximum load, I think I should crank em up a grain each and see what happens, watching primers. Yes?
 
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