Shop for first Dremel: remove bluing AK bolt carrier..

[Ignition Override]

It will be a first tool of that type, and quite frankly I never use any sort of power tool, except trimming bushes. No exaggeration here, at all.

Would any of the lowest-priced, whether battery-powered, or power cord models work for basic removal of the factory Saiga/Maadi ("ARM") bluing on bolt carriers?

Which attachment is recommended for most of the bluing, to be followed by polishing? Youtube guys are not clear on which accessories. My inspiration is the Mak 90 bolt. Is this too confusing?

Some of the benefit seems to be reducing friction on the rails (some is typical AK hammer drag etc).
Don't worry-- I will Not do Anything to the bolt lug channel--we don't want to change any head space factors.

 

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

If it is caustic blued, then you can use bluing remover, or naval jelly. Both will dissolve the bluing, which is black rust. Let it soak, then rinse off, and oil.

 

[T. O'Heir]

Not rotary tools for removing bluing. You couldn't polish enough to alter the headspace anyway. You can polish the barrel lug channel until the cows come home and do nothing to the headspace either. Grind the bolt face on the other hand and you'll ruin the thing.
Like Dixie Gunsmithing says, naval jelly or a commercial rust/bluing remover. Plain white vinegar will strip bluing to bare metal too.
Be advised that if you remove the bluing on anything, you will have no rust prevention at all. You will then require a light coat of oil all the time.

 

[James K]

No bluing is going to cause enough friction that its removal will be of any benefit whatever. In any case, a Dremel is a poor tool for removing bluing since it would be too slow.

Despite some comments that "they should be banned" and "no real gunsmith would ever use a Dremel", a Dremel tool is a very useful asset for those who work on guns. But, it is as someone once said about computers - they don't keep you from screwing up, they only let you screw up a lot faster.

So the Dremel will prove useful in many other ways - just practice with it before tackling an important job.

Jim

 

[rightside]

Birchwood Casey makes a bluing removal that is available every where. Be advised, when you remove the bluing, all the machining marks and small imperfections are really gonna' stand out. You need to plan on really polishing it after bluing removal. I generally use a fine grit of sand paper to remove the marks. What ever grit I start with depends on how bad it looks. You can go down to 600+ and get a fairly good finish on it. Of course a buffing wheel is best, but not everyone has one. Like Jim said, the dremel is just to small for any sizable project.

 

[dakota.potts]

If you want to reduce friction, cycle or shoot the gun a couple hundred times until it wears where it will. I don't see any reason to strip the bluing. Just my opinion

 

[Ignition Override]

Thanks very much.
So far, the only gun where I've sanded a bit has been around the exposed bolt handle area is the Maadi "AK".

Due to the advice here, I won't remove any bluing on my fairly new "nib" Saiga rifles' bolt handles, or anywhere else on them.

 

[ccr]

If you want the bolt and carrier to be smooth then have it plated in something like Nickel Boron Nitride or even Nickel Teflon. But removing the bluing will do nothing more then make it rust faster