Savage replacement stocks - who makes a good one?
- Thread starter Warm Bore
- Start date
See: http://www.varminthunters.com/sshooter.html Everything Fred sells for Savage rifles - and he has it all - is 1st class and 1st rate.
McMillian makes their A3 and A4 stocks now to fit the Savage actions. They're getting a good write-up over on www.snipershide.com
If you want a custom wood stock in any wood, laminate (+ color), and/or style, then go to: www.wenig.com. His work is phenomenal and prices are excellent
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Cheers and tight groups !!
McMillian makes their A3 and A4 stocks now to fit the Savage actions. They're getting a good write-up over on www.snipershide.com
If you want a custom wood stock in any wood, laminate (+ color), and/or style, then go to: www.wenig.com. His work is phenomenal and prices are excellent
!Cheers and tight groups !!
Chief Jones
New member
I just finished putting a Choate on mine--I recommend it.
Found the info in the 'hide. Thanks. Gives me some motivation to drag the neglected Savage out. Got sidetracked with FAL stuff.
I have one of the early 110 FP's with the flimsy stock without bedding pillars. After free floating the barrel, the forearm had twist and flex, and would touch the barrel again depending on sling tension or forearm placement on rest. I notched out the forearm stiffening webs and layed a Chevy small block pushrod along the notched out areas. The voids between the webs were then filled to the top with JB Weld. The lug and receiver were previously bedded with SteelBed. The forearm can still be flexed, but only by using extreme force which will not be seen during normal shooting. Also, the forearm is not able to touch the barrel.
Was told about the pushrod idea by someone who saw it on a gunsmith video tape.
When bedding a 110FP, has anyone bedded the recv magazine area to the stock? I didn't. Just did the areas by the mouinting screw areas and also filled the voids in same areas.
I have one of the early 110 FP's with the flimsy stock without bedding pillars. After free floating the barrel, the forearm had twist and flex, and would touch the barrel again depending on sling tension or forearm placement on rest. I notched out the forearm stiffening webs and layed a Chevy small block pushrod along the notched out areas. The voids between the webs were then filled to the top with JB Weld. The lug and receiver were previously bedded with SteelBed. The forearm can still be flexed, but only by using extreme force which will not be seen during normal shooting. Also, the forearm is not able to touch the barrel.
Was told about the pushrod idea by someone who saw it on a gunsmith video tape.
When bedding a 110FP, has anyone bedded the recv magazine area to the stock? I didn't. Just did the areas by the mouinting screw areas and also filled the voids in same areas.
Re: Bedding a Savage rifle ...
FYI: On the home page @ www.snipershide.com has an article on glass-bedding the Savage rifles. It's pretty good ... I wrote it ! On repeaters I do not recommend bedding the magazine area, stay with the two action bolt areas (with ot w/out pillars) and make sure you have clearance under and around the rear tang where the safety is.
FYI: On the home page @ www.snipershide.com has an article on glass-bedding the Savage rifles. It's pretty good ... I wrote it
! On repeaters I do not recommend bedding the magazine area, stay with the two action bolt areas (with ot w/out pillars) and make sure you have clearance under and around the rear tang where the safety is.