Harry Callahan
New member
Just a quick question; Is it normal for the screws in the sideplate on a S&W Model 66-7 2.5" snubbie to loosen on their own? Seems like I'm constantly tightening them. Don't want to use Locktite unless I have to.
S&W sideplates
- Thread starter Harry Callahan
- Start date
Mike Irwin
Staff
They can, yes, but it's not really normal from what I've seen with most of my S&Ws.
Try a little clear fingernail polish.
Try a little clear fingernail polish.
Harry Callahan
New member
Thanks, Mike.
Single Six
New member
No sarcasm intended here, no disrespect meant towards anyone or S&W, just one guy's opinion, but...this is one of several reasons why I prefer Rugers.
No sarcasm intended here either. Ruger makes fine guns. That said, over the past 45 years I've shot more S&W revolvers than I could possibly remember from 22 to 44 mag and from 2 1/2" bbl to 8 3/8" bbl and never once had one loosen up on me. OTOH, I've never took a side plate off but left that sort of maintenance to professionals. Not sure that has anything to do with sideplate screws loosening. Just thought to mention it.
As long as you're reasonably careful, there's nothing to worry about. When I get a new Smith, I pull the sideplate, remove the old gunked-up oil, and replace it with a coat of new oil. It does help slick up the action a bit.
The big things to remember:
- Use a decent screwdriver so as not to mar the heads.
- Do not pry the sideplate loose. Once the screws are out, whack the frame against a wood surface, and it'll come off.
- That thing that falls out is the transfer bar. It only goes back in one way.
- When putting the plate back on, there's a little "tab" on the top right edge. That goes in first, then the rest of the plate.
- Make sure the transfer bar is aligned with the groove in the sideplate when it goes back on. You can do this by shaking the gun lightly. You should hear a slight rattle.
As far as loose sideplate screws, I've seen it, but they usually stay put once I tighten them down once. The clear fingernail polish fix is neat. I'll have to remember that.
Use a flat ground screwdriver that fills the screw slot fully in width and depth. Do not use a tapered screwdriver. Use a rubber mallet or the wooden handle of a hammer to tap the grip frame (with grips removed) and the sideplate will vibrate off. S+W revolvers do not have a "transfer bar". They use a hammer block. It may look like a transfer bar but its function is completely different. Using blue Loc tite on the screws will stop the loosening and will still allow removal.
madcratebuilder
New member
Shooting full magnum loads in that particular gun it's not unheard of. I've shot the screws loose in both Rugers and Smiths, that's what screwdrivers are for.
Single Six
New member
Madcrate: Serious question here, not trying to be a smartypants: What screws on a Ruger are you referring to? Rear sight screws? Other than that, I'm not aware of any visible screws on my GP-100 or Redhawks...or am I missing something obvious here?
Single Six
New member
Laytonj1: I stand corrected. My mistake; I wasn't even thinking about single actions when I made that last post. Rather, I was envisioning my GP-100 and Redhawks. However, for what it's worth, I've had my Single Six since 1987 and have never had any of it's screws come loose...of course, that's just my experience. Other folks may have had a different outcome. 