S&W repair work question.

[The Meatman]

I bought a 686 about a year ago for $400. After shooting some .38's in it I stepped up to full .357 mag loads. The cylinder began to bind after about 2 rounds. I was able to get it unstuck, but it will bind with full mag loads everytime. One thing I found was if I run Blazer aluminum .357 in it, it eats them just fine. I really want to get this fixed and I was wondering if I sent it in to S&W how does the process work? My 686 was made in 1985, and has seen some obvious use. This is one gun I wouldn't mind spending some money on to make a really serviceable piece out of. She ain't no safe queen now, and sure won't be once repaired. Any advice or knowledge of how all this works is hugely appreciated! Thanks.

 

[stevieboy]

There are more knowledgeable people than I on this forum who will give you some explanations and, maybe, some do it yourself help on that binding cylinder.

As far as Smith's repair service is concerned, based on my experience it's absolutely outstanding! Here's what you need to do. Call Smith (you can get the number from their webpage) and ask to speak to someone in the service department. Explain the problem to him/her and he/she will walk you through exactly what you need to do to send the gun to Smith. If the problem's covered under Smith's lifetime warranty, and it might very well be, they'll send you a shipping tag for UPS. You then take the gun down to a UPS shipping center, ship it in, and that's it. My experience is that the turnaround time is remarkably fast, ranging from a few days to a few weeks. You'll get the gun back and odds are the problem will have been taken care of.

 

[3-fitty-7]

i'm also no expert and don't have experience with smith's CS but i'd probably think the problem is alot of .38's have been ran through the gun and there's a gas ring left from the shorter cases and when fired the brass expands and moves back and gets stuck on the gas ring. i would also say this because the blazer aluminum case doesn't expand like brass so it has room to move forward again. is there any residue left in the cylinder behind the ring .357 leaves behind? i would clean the heck out of my cylinder with the lewis lead remover or some folks recommend and bras brush with a chore boy wrapped around the get lead out easier, good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

[The Meatman]

I think I'm gonna contact S&W on Monday and find out if this is covered under the warranty. Either way I think it's time for the 100,000 mile maintenance. Thanks for the quick replies.

 

[Tom2]

I don't know what kind of brass mag ammo you used besides the stuff that stuck, maybe it was just that ammo, possibly. But I might send a couple of the spent cases that stick back with it as examples that might possibly help figuring out the deal. Don't leave them in the gun. Someone will see them inside the cylinder and freak, maybe.

 

[laytonj1]

It really does sound like you just need to scrub out the chambers after shooting at lot of 38's. I would try this first, especially based on the fact it binds with full power loads only.
1980's is before the lifetime warranty started.

Jim

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

The Lifetime Warranty starts with 1989 and newer guns. I agree with the others, scrub the living daylights out of the chambers with a good powder solvent and a bronze brush. You shouldn't have to use a Lewis Lead Remover (although it's a good idea to own one ) for this. Good old Hoppe's no.9 will work for powder fouling. Soak each chamber over night by using a patch wet down with Hoppe's, then simply run a tight (read proper)fitting brush through the chambers several times. Make sure you dry each chamber before firing the gun. Good luck!

 

[The Meatman]

One thing I did notice was brass shavings around the firing pin area when I finally got the chamber to revolve. I've seen in some of PBP's posts that he takes the cylinder off the gun. How do you do that? The whole front of mine is permanently black, and you can obviously see where .38 rounds have been vs. 357's. I wonder if a cylinder replacement isn't in order?

 

[madcratebuilder]

You have been shooting 38spl in a .357 chamber. Doing that deposits lead and residue at the end of the chamber at the machined ring. That keeps the .357 case from fully seating. Then the case binds on the recoil shield. Clean all the chambers and see if that fixes your problem. Uses Hoppe's #9 and a brush.

 

[laytonj1]

The whole front of mine is permanently black, and you can obviously see where .38 rounds have been vs. 357's. I wonder if a cylinder replacement isn't in order?

No, but a good cleaning is.

Jim

 

[LHB1]

Meatman,
Several people have advised you (wisely) to CLEAN THE CYLINDER CHAMBERS where the shorter .38 Special rounds have left a deposit build up. Don't jump to conclusions about replacing the cylinder until you have tried this simple, obvious treatment. As far as cleaning the black off the front of cylinder (and inside frame opening?), use some Lead Away cloth (stainless steel guns ONLY) dampened with Shooters Choice Bore cleaner. Presto, cleano.
NOTE: DO NOT USE LEAD AWAY CLOTH ON BLUED GUNS. IT WILL REMOVE THE BLUING.

 

[The Meatman]

I have cleaned the chambers after each outing, but I can't attest to the previous owner(s) maintenance level. Thanks for the ideas on getting the lead out. I really had no idea how to go about it. Thanks.

 

[LHB1]

Quote: "Thanks for the ideas on getting the lead out. I really had no idea how to go about it. "

Meatman,
The Lead Away/bore cleaner described above is great for cleaning black markings from outside surfaces of cylinder and frame. For removing lead deposits or gunk from the chambers after shooting .38 Spl's, get some COPPER Chore Boy cleaning pads from the grocery store. Peel apart a CB pad and wrap a small section around a worn .38 cal cleaning brush. Now scour each chamber thoroughly with this combo. It is reputed to remove lead or other deposits quickly from chambers or barrels. Good luck. Hope a good cleaning will eliminate your problems. If not, you will be able to tell the S&W service rep that you have already done that and retested the gun. This will likely be the very first thing they will ask or advise.

 

[orionengnr]

Sorry, but I don't see how a plastic Chore Boy pad will do much. Plastic is softer than powder, copper, lead, and evrything else.

The real-deal all-copper ones work very well to remove lead and powder fouling (the copper is harder than the lead and powder but softer than the steel barrel). They come three to a pack, and one will last a good time.

Bring a magnet when you go shopping--I bought some Wal-Mart "copper" scouring pads, and they stuck to a magnet . Copper-washed iron, likely.

 

[LHB1]

Thanks, Orionengnr. Don't know where that "plastic" came from. Yes, it should have said "copper" Chore Boy pads.

 

[The Meatman]

Thanks guys. I've never bought a used gun with this much "use" and most of my cleanings have been lite maintenance rather than restorative. This is just the kind of advice I was looking for. My only worry is, if it binds again, it's a real pain to get unstuck.

 

[laytonj1]

My only worry is, if it binds again, it's a real pain to get unstuck.

We're betting that after the scrubing it won't get stuck anymore.

Jim

 

[laytonj1]

HOLD on a minute... Does your 686 have a "M" stamped by the model number? I just remembered that S&W did a recall on the early 686 and 686-1's for a problem with the firing pin bushing that would cause the cylinder to bind up with certain types of ammo.

The issue was that the early -no-dash and -1 L frames had a slight dimensional intolerance in the frame-mounted firing pin bushing and firing pin configuration that was not discovered during protoype testing or early production. Certain factory magnum loads and certain primer brands had a slight tendency to flow into the bushing upon firing and lockup the cylinder. Ouch. The factory sent out a recall which involved replacing the bushing and firing pin, which alleviated any potential backflow blockage problem. L frames which underwent this modfification were stamped with an "M" in the yoke area. The factory will gladly perform this modification if you have one that has not taken the trip journey back to Springfield.

 

[The Meatman]

I just checked the yoke area and nope, no "M" stamped there. The only odd stamping I noticed was an A24, and an S running sideways on the swing out arm. I guess I will call Smith after all, IN ADDITION TO, a good thorough cleaning. Thanks for that heads up!

 

[xrmattaz]

Your no-dash, no "M" is eligible for the recall from S&W. They will replace the firing pin/bushing, and your woes will be over.

I've not yet sent in my no-dash no "M" 686, as I have not had the same problem....some did, some didn't. It's called "primer flow", which certainly can and will tie up the weapon.

Call S&W, they'll take care of it.