S&W Model 66 - To buy or not to buy?

[RodTheWrench]

Details:

no-dash Model 66
Stainless
4"
Pachmayer grips

A local guy is selling it, he got it used and doesn't know much about it. No box or anything else.

Having bought and sold guns for years, I know generally what to look for but I want one of these as a keeper so don't want to settle for just any old model 66.

Be honest, is the 66 really that awesome? Is the no-dash extra awesome or a liability? I noticed the pinned barrel in the pics - good or no?

I've read about forcing cone wear, what else is common on these to have issues?

Is it better, or just different than the model 60? It's been a while since I've shot both and can't recall right off. Do I wait for a 60 or just buy this and get a 60 when one rolls around as well?

Sorry for the picture quality - his pics, not mine.

Oh, he wants $500 obo. Seems ok, is it?

Thank you in advance for your wisdom, opinions and not-too-snarky remarks.

 

[billygun]

Looks good, Offer $400

 

[Jimmy10mm]

A 60 is a small 38 spl and a 66 is the stainless version of the model 19 357 combat magnum. The blue m-19 was the revolver Bill Jordan did his fancy fast draw shooting with.

Great light weight, compared to the M-27, 357 mag duty gun. If it is in good shape and you don't intend a steady diet of magnum rounds I'd buy it.

If you want to shoot a lot of mags an Lframe or an N frame is probably a better bet. IMHO.

 

[pittspilot]

I would pull the trigger on that.

 

[RodTheWrench]

The 6" 686 and GP100 will be doing the heavy-duty Magnum shooting so that shouldn't be an issue.

What about that pinned barrel? Good, bad or ugly?

 

[AID_Admin]

It's hard to tell by pictures, but it looks like this one is a very early 66 with stainless steel sights, which considered somewhat collectable. Nothing super special, but it does demand a premium... In general 66 is an excellent gun and earlier one, which has pinned barrel and stainless sights are most valuable. So, I think $500 is well worth it, as long as it's in good condition.

As far as "issues" with forcing cones I wouldn't worry about it. It appears to be very rare issue and only happened to shooters who used a steady diet of very hot magnum loads. And even then the issue mostly was reported for Model 19, not 66. So, unless you plan to put thousands of hot magnums through it (normal 158 grain doesn't count!), you have absolutely nothing to worry about.

 

[Sodbuster]

BTW The model 60 is also chambered in .357... it's closer to a J-frame (small) than a K-frame (mid-size frame) like the 66. Having owned a model 60 in .357, I would buy the 66. YMMV. Pinned barrels are kool.

 

[PatientWolf]

I'd make an offer and pick it up if it were me.

 

[BillCA]

I'd snatch that in a hurry.

This is an early no-dash Model 66 with stainless sights. Later guns had blued sights so this makes the no-dash a bit more collectible. These were highly regarded revolvers in the 70's and widely used by police, especially in humid southern states. It's the stainless steel version of the Model 19 (shown below).


S&W Model 19-5 without the pinned barrel

The pinned barrel is usually coupled with the counterbored chambers so that the case heads are recessed. Both are considered desirable features in collecting S&W's.

The whole issue of forcing cones came about when police agencies started making officers qualify with duty ammunition instead of .38 special wadcutters. Two things happened... Officers went from firing maybe 100 rounds of .357 Magnums a year to firing hundreds of rounds per year to qualify. Secondly, to contain costs many agencies or individual officers had habitually used .38 Special wadcutters (LWC) for practice. This left leading in the forcing cone if officers were not meticulous about weapons hygiene. And let's face it, many officers simply ran solvent and a brush through the bore a few times and called it "clean". S&W found that most of the forcing cones were failing due to serious lead build up and a lack of good cleaning practices. Almost all the failures were due to lead build up in the forcing cones when using 125 grain JHP ammo. The shorter, lighter bullet jumped the cylinder gap at higher speeds than the 158gr bullets. Combining the impact pulses with a constricted forcing cone exerted pressure on the weakest part of the barrel, the flat cut underneath the barrel that allowed clearance for the cylinder yoke arm. Almost all of the problems involved carbon-steel guns, not the stainless steel guns.

The last of the Model 66's used the 2-piece barrel arrangement that was found on Model 619's and 620's. The frames of these guns are slightly larger than the original Model 19/66's too. Here's an example of one of the last Model 66's with a 2.5" barrel.

 

[RodTheWrench]

Picked it up. Guy came down to 450 and threw in a Bianchi holster as well as 100+ once-fired brasses(38/357 mix). I think I did good!

 

[AID_Admin]

I think I did good!

I think you did great. Stainless sights, as I expected! All you need now is original stocks to have a collectable 66. That, of course, if you want it to look all original. If not this is great deal anyway!

 

[Noreaster]

Good deal. I bought a 66-2 last year and I love it. From my research about the forcing cone issue I second what BillCA wrote. Keep it clean and stick with 158 grain magnum loads.

 

[RodTheWrench]

That's good news! Anyone know offhand where I can find some original stocks?

 

[AID_Admin]

Anyone know offhand where I can find some original stocks?

Ebay, and if you are lucky, handy and willing to refinish them and can score a set for $20 - $25. I did, for my Model 17 recently.

 

[Sevens]

Of all the disappointing gun shows I've attended over the last quarter century (and many good ones, too), even the lousy shows usually had one or two tables set up that were just overflowing with grips.

It ends up being a LOT of looking and inspecting. If the dealer knows what he's got, even easier. Bring the revolver with you to try for fit.

 

[Sevens]

BillCA, please tell me about the grips on the 19-5 you show in that picture. Not original to that revolver, are they? What's the Smith & Wesson "name" for those stocks and where did you get them?

 

[BigJimP]

Model 66 - in a 4" is a Square Butt K frame...so that is the grip you're looking for....should be lots of them around at most any decent gun show ...or you can buy them online from S&W ....or most any outlet like Brownells, etc....where you can get some aftermarket stocks...lots of them out there.

Average prices now on wood grips or stocks ..K Sq Butt ...are probably $ 75 - $ 125 a set.....

 

[357 Python]

That appears to be a 66 no dash due to the rear sight. If the forcing cone is not cracked and it is mechanically fine I would offer $450 but if he stuck to $500 I would not feel cheated. Now go get it.

 

[Bill56]

There are about a bazillion folks selling K frame stocks over on the blue S&W forum. There are also many, many aftermarket stock manufacturers if you want to go that way. Ebay is another possibility not to be discounted (pun not intended).

 

[RodTheWrench]

Thanks again guys - it looks to be a great gun and I'm ordering correct grips for it ASAP. Now, being a lefty I don't have any need for the Bianchi holster. I wonder where I could find someone that has a K frame Smith&Wesson with a 4" barrel that could use it? Any righties out there?