S&W K-frame accessories

[croyance]

As I wait through the Federally mandated period, I just realized - I never considered which speed loader is considered best for a K-frame S&W. I see mostly plastic ones on the shelves of my local stores. Of course, concealed carry isn't legal here in Wisconsin. So, are there any superior designs? If so, which and what are the best sources?

Second, what about grips? I have seen some complaining that the new S&W revolvers have rounded butt grips. I have seen pictures of nice ones though. Will it make a big difference in feel? How so? Which do you prefer?

Third, has anybody had bad experiences with kydex holsters on the bluing? I have used kydex on semi-autos, but those were newer pistols that may have had more durable finishes. What holster material works best with bluing?

 

[Sir William]

I prefer the HKS 10-A speed loader. I have used them for decades. I prefer round butt K frames. I actually seek out the antique splinter grips for mine. I do use Pachmayr Compac rubber grips and Butler Creek too. For fancy grips www.eaglegrips.com I enjoy my K frames. Skip kydex, I think they are POJ. I have been using Vega leather holsters for an inexpensive holster.

 

[Hammer It]

Hello Croyance
I am a lover of the Factory Combat grips in the K-round frame. they fit good and point fast. Here is a picture of some I refinished. Regards, Hammer It.

 

[dairycreek]

K frame options!

There are a variety of so-called speed loaders on the market and I suggest that you do a Google search on "speed loaders" and see what is there. Personally, I carry Bianchi speed strips which are not at all fast but are thin and make for an easy carry. I have used HKS's too and, while bulky, work just fine.

As to grips I have good results with Hogue http://www.getgrip.com/ and recommend them for your consideration. As to feel, I vastly prefer the round frame grips and would asvise you to try both to see what best fits your hand.

Get used to the fact that blued handguns will, over time, show holster wear. That is pretty much a fact of life. To keep holster wear at a minum make sure your holsters are kept clean of dust, grit, and stuff like that. Pure kydex is really easy to keep clean with soap and water. As to leather, check with your holster maker to see what is recommended. Cleaners that, over time, soften leather holsters are to be avoided.

I use both leather and kydex holsters and have not noticed that one material promotes holster wear more than another although I do prefer a good leather holster - but that's just me.

 

[Majic]

Grips or stocks are something you have to put in your hand to determine if they are right for you, especially so of the fingergrooved style. A lot of people rave about the Hoques, but I consider them a waste of a good tree. You can have custom grips made for your hand and you will know that they will fit or visit your local ranges and just ask nicely to handle the what the revolver shooter have brought with them that day.
On holsters you will find that no matter who makes it or what it's made of in time if you continue to use it it will rub the bluing off. If you want to preserve the bluing on a revolver then keep it out of a holster.

 

[Chris W]

A lot of people rave about the Hoques, but I consider them a waste of a good tree.

+1. They position the hand far too low on the gun for quick double-action shooting. But, more generally and more importantly, grips really are something to put your hand on.

The preferred speedloaders among revolver competitors are Safariland comp III's, which are spring loaded. If you're not competing, a somewhat simpler (and simpler to handle) alternative is the Safariland comp II. Unlike the HKS's, there's no twisting to release; you just push the center of the loader against the ejector star, and the cartridges drop right in.