S $ W J Frame for C&C and Crimson Trace

Huskerguy

New member
Looking at the S & W J frames with the wife this weekend. We both are going to get our C&C permits. She doesn't like semi autos but is heck with a revolver in her hands.:D

We are looking at models 637, 638, and 642. Anyone have these and what can you tell me? How do they compare with others in the group. We picked up a couple Rugers and and Taurus but didn't like the feel of them nearly as well. We are looking at the 38 special for the cartridge.

Also looked at the Crimson Trace laser grips, pretty cool. Anyone have them?

Thanks in advance
 

KyJim

New member
I have the 637 and the Model 38 Airweight, the predecessor to the 638. I like both of them and carry them. The 38 is better for pocket carry because the shrouded trigger helps prevent snagging when you draw if from the pocket. The 642's internal hammer also helps prevent snagging. However, I like the 38/638 better because it still allows you to cock the trigger. The unusual "hump" shape also helps prevent printing.
 

Auto426

New member
The difference is basically what type of hammer configuration you want. They are all basically the same. They are all .38+p J frames is aluminum frames and stainless steal cylinders. They are all the same size and very close on weight.

The 637 has a regular unshrouded hammer. This allows you to easily thumb cock the revolver for single action shooting:

sw637.jpg


The 638 is what S&W refers to as their body guard style. It has an enlarged frame that acts as a shroud around the hammer. This prevents the hammer from snagging on anything when drawn, but the protruding tip of the hammer also allows you to thumb cock it for single action shooting:

smith_638.jpg


The 642 is probably the most popular S&W J frame today. It's fully concealed hammer means that it's Double Action Only (DAO). Many prefer this because a gun of this type will rarely ever be fired in single action, and they prefer to memorize the one trigger pull. It also won't snag on anything when drawn:

smith_642.jpg
 

mnhntr

New member
Heres the other halves 642 with CT grips (bottom). It is very good quality and very accurate for a 1 and 7/8 in barrel. I am talking 4in groups with the laser at 25yds. Definately would give this one an excellent rating. I would strongly recommend to anyone.
none028.jpg
 

jaydubya

New member
Seven or eight years ago, I bought a new 637 with the Crimson Trace grips available then (the 305 set) for home/self defense. I have fired several thousand rounds with that handgun, almost all of them double action at targets five and ten yards away. The several times I have fired it from a cocked hammer, I have not been satisfied. For my purposes, a 442/642 would have been a better choice.

Crimson Trace laser grips are simply marvelous. I have them on all my handguns that CT makes them for. Any handgun that CT does not make a set of laser grips for is off my purchase list. Now, to use our president's favorite phrase, "Let me be perfectly clear." CT laser grips are useless if your targets are bowling pins at fifty yards under the noonday sun. In that environment, iron sights shine. CT laser grips are meant for home/self defense, most likely in dim or no lighting. In that environment, they shine.

They will also rattle your cage by showing you how trembly your hands are. Just concentrate on the target and trigger, and let the red dot wander. That's what I do, and I put most of my shots inside the ten ring of a full size silhouette target at ten yards. At my age, I'll take that.

Cordially, Jack
 

doc540

New member
I don't recommend the lightweight frames.

Steel frames aren't that much heavier, but they sure handle the recoil better.

The CT grips made an exponential improvement in her confidence and ability to shoot it accurately. The recoil pocket on the upper strap is a great idea, too.

My wife's M36 w/CT
CrimsonTrace004-1.jpg

CrimsonTrace005-1-1.jpg


Since taking these pictures I've wrapped it throughly with tennis racket grip tape.
 

DAdams

New member
I have CT 405s on two J Frames. 642-2 and M&P 340. Helps with recoil, point/shoot, and training. Practice with them turned off also.
 

Smilin Jack

New member
I carry a S&W 649 with CT grips. Yes, as stated before the little bit of extra weight doesn't make much difference but does help on recoil. Even the 357 loads are not a pain to shoot like they are in an alloy frame gun. And with EDC the stainless steel still looks like the day it was made. The CT helps a lot in low light conditions considering the sight picture on the J frame isn't much to begin with.
 

jglsprings

New member
I looked at them all and found I liked the Model 60. The option for 357 mag and the slight additional weight, that helps shoot even 38 +P, bumped me over the edge.

Here are a couple of pictures with the factory rubber grips and some rosewood boot grips. I can't help with the CT question.

4156499536_181bc45aff.jpg


3987550222_89d4f3a6e8.jpg


I didn't care for the "finish" or clear coat or whatever they put on some of the lightweight J frames that I looked at. YMMV. Let us know what you decide.
 

SaberOne

New member
Essentially, or at least in most cases, the difference between a 442 series and 642 series is the finish and composition of the barrel and cylinder. They both incorporate an alloy frame and this makes them attractive for conceal carry.

442 – Black anodized w/carbon steel barrel & cylinder
642 – Silver painted w/stainless barrel & cylinder​

Again, there are a few exceptions to this rule but you can scan over the technical features from within the S&W Revolver/J-Frame website. Benefits? Weapon grade carbon steel is harder than comparable stainless, whereas stainless helps prevent moisture corrosion. I have both although my personal favorite is the full stainless 640. Granted its 23-ounces empty and it's a pain to carry in the hot ass summers here in Arizona, so I opt for my 642 during this period. Currently, I like and have ordered the ‘new’ 442 Pro Series with no-lock and factory pre-cut for moon clips. It’s a 15-ounce variant, which is only slightly heavier than some others’. This also adds a bit more stability in perceived recoil. As I've said before, for every plus there's and equal minus.

My own take: After researching some case law, its clear that a non-exposed (or fully bobbed) hammer revolver may be better suited in the event you’re involved in a self-defense shooting incident. Your mileage will definitely vary.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...angId=-1&parent_category_rn=15704&isFirearm=Y

Regards,
 
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BryanP

New member
I carry a 649 with CT grips. This is a replacement for the 638 I used to carry with the same CT grips. So yes, I'm a fan.

Anybody want to buy a 638? :D
 
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