S&W Identification

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Trum4n1208

New member
Howdy All! First time poster, long time reader. I recently picked up a used S&W revolver off of a buddy of mine. I got it for $275 or so, plus the cost of getting the safety transfer bar replaced (the owner before my buddy apparently decided that the whole 'safety' thing was stupid).

Now, I know it only fires .38 Special. If I had to guess, I'd say it was a S&W Model 15, but I don't know for sure. I will post pictures when it comes back from the LGS, but when it does come back, where would I look to find out the model type.

I could ask my friend, but I rarely get the chance to see him due to class scheduling and work. I want to know so I can get better grips (the current ones don't fit my girlfriend's hands that well, and since it's her gun, I want it to do what she needs it to do).
 
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BigJimP

New member
Open the cylinder ...and the model number and engineering dash number will be stamped on the frame inside - on a flat spot behind the yoke that opens up and holds the cyclinder.

With that model and dash number one of us can then tell you what size frame it is / and whether its a square butt or round butt frame probably....which will determine which grips, or stocks, you want to look for.
 
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Jim Watson

New member
Unless it is older than 1957 when they had names instead of numbers.
Combat Masterpiece instead of Model 15, for example.
In the catalog and on the box, not on the gun, though.

Show pictures.
 
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carguychris

New member
I want to know so I can get better grips (the current ones don't fit my girlfriend's hands that well, and since it's her gun, I want it to do what she needs it to do).
Click to expand...
I'll give you a little info about grips.

First, S&W enthusiasts like to refer to wooden grip panels as "stocks", in accordance with older S&W factory terminology. Some collector types may get persnickety about this, but most of us will forgive you if you call them grips. :)

The first thing you need to know is the grip frame shape. There are two basic grip frame shapes used on modern S&W revolvers- round and square. Here's a picture pilfered from the S&W website.

butt_sq_rnd_md.jpg


Square butt (or SB) grips will fit on a round-butt (RB) gun, but will overhang at both the front and the back, which is annoying. There is, however, a special third type of grips designed to fix this problem- so-called "conversion" grips, which are designed to cover the lower corners of a RB frame and emulate a SB shape.

In the old days, most S&Ws with 4" or longer barrels were SB and shorter-barreled guns were RB, although this is by no means a hard-and-fast rule; there are MANY exceptions. In the mid 1990s, S&W converted almost all of their standard-production revolvers to RB, but many models are shipped with conversion grips.

You're likely aware that there are several different S&W frame sizes; however, if the gun is .38Spl only, it's probably a K frame if 6-shot or a J frame if 5-shot. .38Spl-only L frames exist, but they're rare, and it's unlikely you bought one from someone who didn't know what he/she had (and would part with it for only $275). :)

K & L frames actually take the same grips. Almost all K/L grips interchange; the only significant exception is original Model 12 checkered wood stocks, which will only fit properly on a Model 12. Almost all J frame grips also interchange; the only exceptions are very early-production J's, which had a 1/4" shorter grip frame, and some original wood stocks for "Centennial" concealed-hammer models, which had a higher so-called "top horn" profile to match the steeper frame contour. All of the K and J exceptions are rare, however; as with a .38Spl L frame, you're unlikely to buy these from someone who doesn't know what he/she has.
 
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Trum4n1208

New member
So I got the revolver back the other day (finally!) and confirmed that it is a S&W Model 15-4. Now I have another issue entirely. Today, I found that, for whatever reason, I couldn't get the cylinder to pop out. If I had to guess, I'd say there's some debris in the gun, but I've just got no idea. I haven't shot it yet, and I've been storing it well. Has anyone else had this issue?
 
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Sevens

New member
The ejector rod is a REVERSE thread on a Model 15-4. Smith & Wesson realized at some point that given the normal act of the cylinder turning...the system would benefit if this normal rotation did NOT work to unscrew the ejector rod! :p

Tighten it, but please don't use tools.

Okay, if you think you MUST use tools, do all you can to protect the integrity of that ejector rod. :cool:

If I'm reading the big book correctly, the 15-4 was made from 1977 to 1982.

It's a K-frame revolver and the wooden stocks that are on it, if they are the original stocks... well, those -SUCK.- This is nearly universal amongst shooters and... well... human people. Whoever approved those stocks wasn't much of a revolver shooter. So if you or the girlfriend don't care for them, welcome to the club. Most of us think they are quite lacking also.

Your options from here are ridiculous. Anything that is made for a K-frame square butt will work. Personally, I very much like the Pachmayr Gripper SK-G. Part of their "Decelerator" line. Many folks will think these look horrendous. In many ways, I can't argue. However, this grip fits me well and these grips also benefit a shooter very much in that they cushion you from felt recoil. They don't eliminate recoil, but they definitely help to manage it.

But this particular model of grip does give a somewhat long reach to the trigger and work well for me, and I have somewhat large hands. (in gloves, I'm not at all comfortable in anything under a size XL) Pachmayr offers a similar looking grip that does -NOT- have the cushioning in it and when it's installed, you can visibly see the attractive metal back strap of the revolver. This grip offers a shorter reach to the trigger than the SK-G and this may fit a ladies' hand better if she has (typically) smaller hands than I do. My regular shooting buddy has small hands and his revolvers all wear this grip.

Pachmayr calls this one the "Gripper Professional."
Check for yourself at: http://www.pachmayr.com/home/revolver-grips.php

I grew up on Pachmayr grips. Another brand that is wildly popular these days are Hogue grips, and these are often worn as a factory grip on many new guns. Personally, I think that these things are the epitome of HORRENDOUS in their look. They feel okay, but I find them repulsive. Opinions vary. :p

Good luck.
 
M

Mike Irwin

Staff
"Okay, if you think you MUST use tools, do all you can to protect the integrity of that ejector rod."

To explain that a bit further...

If you need to tighten the rod, use padded pliars (thick leather is best) and put AT LEAST three empty shells into the cylinder while you're torquing the rod.

That supports the extractor star and helps prevent bending something that will be very expensive to replace.
 
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Tortuga12

New member
Another Grip Option

I just can't put those Hogue or Pachmayr grips on my revolvers, with the tapered barrels, it just makes them look unbalanced. I think the Tyler T-Grip does a great job of making the standard stocks usable:

8pRFp9m.jpg


Cheap and easy! The silver one originally came with a black enamel finish that started chipping, so I removed it. Found a GREAT replacement finish in Rust-Oleum truck bed anti-skid paint! Just the right amount of "grit" to make a good grip, but not too agressive.

Cheers!
 
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Trum4n1208

New member
Thanks everyone for all the posts. I'm really liking those T-grips honestly. I agree, I've handled the stock grips and just didn't care for them. I like them aesthetically, but aesthetics aren't quite priority number one on a self defense gun.

Also, really appreciate everyone's help. Ya'll are excellent people and I tip my hat to you all.
 
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