S&W Disassembly Question

[stevelyn]

I'm doing some clean up work on a friend's M-629 that was in a house fire. The gun wasn't exposed to the flames or high heat, but it did get a little rust on it and in it from the water. I want to take the side plate off and do a little cleaning to the lock work.

I would like to know if I should expect parts to sproing out of the gun if I take the side plate off.

 

[DeltaWhiskey]

Parts will not SPROING out. However, there is a little lever(the name escapes me now) that rests inside the frame and and isn't connected to anything isnide the frame. It has to be replaced back in the grrove in the sideplate when you replace it.

Be careful removing the sideplate. It can be bent if you try to force it out. Just put a screwdriver as far as you can reach inside the grip frame pointing towards the hammer. Gently pry up and the plate will come off.

When you replace the plate, be sure not to torque the sideplate screws as tight as you can. If you overtighten them, the cylinder won't open easily because of too much stress on the crame.

 

[jclaude]

S&W side plate removal

There's not anything in there that will jump out at you from a spring loaded condition. There is a little transfer bar underneath the side plate that will fall out if you're not careful.

What you need to be most aware of at this point is how to remove the side plate without damaging it or the frame.

1. Remove the grips. Make sure that the screwdriver you use fits the screws nice and snuggly without hanging over the sides of the screw head. This applies to all of the screws that you will deal with.

2. Remove the 3 screws on the side plate and set them aside. Notice that the screw that is closest to the barrel is longer than the rest of them and is turned down with a dog type point. This screw also holds the cylinder and cyl/yoke in the frame.

3. With the 3 screws removed, you can now remove the cylinder and yoke and set them to the side. You will find later taht the yoke can be easily removed from the cylinder for cleaning and lubing.

4. The side plate can now be removed. Hold the frame by the top strap with the side plate facing up and tap lightly with a small wooden hammer handle on the lower half of the grip frame, tapping the frame away from the side plate. Keep one finger on the side plate so it doesn't fall off and ding the edges. Do not use any kind of tool for prying the side plate. The edges can be easily damaged. There is a small "finger" of sorts on the under side of the side plate that engages the frame at the upper most edge of the side plate. This will disengage and allow complete removal of the side plate as soon as the rest of it is clear of the frame.

This is as far as I will go at this point on disassembling an S&W. At this stage, you will have reasonably good access tho the internal parts for inspection, cleaning, and lubricating. Reverse the order to reassemble.

 

[datasmith]

Nothing will spring out, but one part will be loose when the plate is removed - the hammer block safety. It is held in place by a groove in the plate. The plate should be a tight fit, stiff to pry up, so make sure the gun is on a flat surface and hold it down securely when you pry it up.

 

[Richard Simmons]

FWIW I've read you should never, ever pry a side plate off. You remove the grips and then the screws in the side plate. With a wooden hammer handle or something else that won't damage the finish you tap the grip frame to dislodge the side plate. May be a bit off on the procedure outlined above but I know I'm not wrong about the prying part.

 

[jclaude]

S&W Side Plates

S&W maintenance 101, Lesson # 1:

you should never, ever pry a side plate off.

 

[Sir William]

My opinion is leave it alone. Do NOT remove the sideplate. Chemicals, cleaners and lubricants can be sprayed or poured through the lockwork while intact. There is simply no purpose to removing the sideplate. I would remove the grips and wipe them down with a citrus based cleaner, use Kiwi brown shoe polish to darken them and Kiwi neutral wax to protect them. CRC Brakleen aerosol will clean and remove moisture. I would follow that with Zippo or Ronson lighter fluid/naptha. I then suggest Kiwi polish in black for blued or Flitz polish for stainless steel or nickel finishes. Wax afterwards with a high quality carnauba wax a la Turtle Wax, Mothers or Maguires.

 

[gfen]

I opened one using the hammer method as described.

I've read numerous times to not do it unneccessarily as it can still affect the metal's fit, but if you need to do it once I don't think you'd have to worry.

 

[glockopop]

Why not ask S&W? I don't have any experience with their service department (never needed it) but I've heard good things. Shoot 'em an email or call. Just go straight to the experts.

 

[stevelyn]

Thanks for all the replies. BTW this is a one time disassembly as I would be concerned with the side plate becoming loose fitting with regular disassembly.

So the pin holding the trigger return spring isn't going to jump loose even though one side fits a recess in the side plate?

 

[jclaude]

Trigger Return Spring Pin

The pin is pressed into the LH side of the frame. I have never seen one of them loose enough to fall out, nor have I ever seen a side plate loose it's fit from proper assembly or disassembly.

The use of brake clean or similar products (lighter fluid/naptha) is OK - IF - you're removing the side plate so you can re-apply the lubricants. Otherwise, it should be avoided as it will dilute, if not completely destroy any and all lubricants that are crucial to the smooth operation and the longetivity of the revolver.

 

[stevelyn]

Thanks all. Surgery was successful and I got the gun back together without trouble.