Lightening the trigger pull is done by changing or modifying the rebound spring to reduce back pressure on the trigger. But the risk there is in high speed shooting of not having the trigger reset fast enough or completely.
Absolutely correct!!
Folks, here's how to save a ton of money and get a good reference book as well.
First thing, purchase a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual for the Smith and Wesson Revolvers. Learn how to PROPERLY disassemble the revolver.
Now, here's how to do your own action job.
First thing, check and clear. Fully disassemble the revolver, with the exception of the cylinder stop/bolt and cylinder latch.
Here's the important part: Do NOT, under ANY circumstances, mess with the following parts: Hammer notch, trigger shelf, sear surface (back of the trigger) or the double action fly. They do NOT need adjustment.
Clean the revolver well. Then, we will start with the cylinder.
Assemble the cylinder onto the crane. Hold it straight and spin it. If is spins freely, fine. If not, you can dress up the outer part of the crane--the bearing surface that goes inside the cylinder--with light pressure and some 600 grit. You do NOT want to grind away--a couple of turns will do. Do NOT sand, polish, or dress that back end of the open "tube"--if you do, you will induce endshake, which can really cause some bad spitting and in extreme cases cause failures to fire. Make sure you clean all grit off the parts; put them aside.
Re-install the innards of the revolver, without the hammer--only put a good coat of JB compound UNDER, and on the INSIDE surface, of the rebound slide. Make sure you hold light pressure on the parts to keep them from coming out of the frame; now, pull the trigger about 30 times. This will lap the bottom and inner contact surface of the rebound slide and the frame. Disassemble once more, and clean the parts thoroughly.
Reassemble, using some good moly grease under that rebound slide. I use Brownell's Action Lube--a little dab'll do ya. Just a bit on the following places:
Under and on the inside surface of the rebound slide, next to the frame;
Around the trigger and hammer bosses;
A little bit ON the rebound slide spring;
A good coat ON the trigger shelf, and the top cam of the rebound slide.
You need to replace that rebound slide spring, too. I use 14 lb. springs in my Smiths to smooth up that pull.
Remember to apply the Action Lube per the instructions--this means you have to clean and completely degrease the parts before the lube is applied.
You can use the stock mainspring--or, for the final touch of smoothness, get a Power Custom mainspring from Brownell's. You want the one with the rib in it.
Use ONLY full length unaltered strain screws. NEVER shorten this screw, and NEVER alter the mainspring.
Now, fully reassemble, and hand cycle. Bet you'll like it!!
