S&W 686P binding up

Wayward_Son

New member
I've had an ongoing problem with my 686+. I've been reluctant to post this for a couple months because I didn't want to tarnish the reputation of this fine revolver, but I realize that idea is silly and it does the community more good to publicize the issue, and perhaps I can get some feedback from the community as well as to whether this is a common problem or what I should do to get it resolved.

The gun is a 686+ 4". I purchased it the first week of January, 2008, brand-new. This gun does have the lock like all current S&W revolvers.

When I first purchased it I didn't bother to clean or lubricate it. I took it straight to the range and fired 200 rounds, followed by 150 rounds the following weekend. This was all single-action.

The third time out, the gun developed a serious problem: sometimes when I cocked back the hammer it would seem to bind up somehow at the very last bit of travel. Then when I pulled the trigger it took an unusual amount of force to fire the gun. I estimate the trigger pull in this condition somewhere between 20-30 pounds. I thought that perhaps I was having a problem with the now-infamous "S&W Lock" horror, and tried locking and then unlocking the gun. It did not help. The lock appears to have no bearing on the problem.

Another shooter took a look at the gun and said that it looked very dry and that I clean and lubricate it.

I took it home and cleaned it for the first time using Hoppes #9, and lubricated it with some Hoppes aerosol lubricating oil. The next two times out to the range, I experienced zero problems and felt the problem was fixed. I figured the guy was right and that lack lubrication was the culprit. Soon enough, however, the gun started doing the same damn thing.

At this point, I was cleaning and lubricating it after every single outing, no matter how many or how few rounds I fired. I just couldn't see how the gun was still binding up or jamming when completely clean and well-oiled.

What was really perplexing about all this was that this problem only occurred when firing single-action; when shooting double-action I experienced zero problems of any sort.

So about five weeks ago after several outings with the gun on which I knew that it was well-cleaned and well-lubricated and yet still experiencing binding/jamming problems (and frustratingly, even more frequently) I finally took it to a local gunsmith. After explaining the problem he looked at it for a few minutes. He thought it might be due to a couple problems: 1. Ejector star getting debris caught underneath it, disallowing it from seating completely. 2. Some kind of internal problem with the "hand", which is one of the internal parts that help in the cocking of the gun. As it turns out, he found that neither of those are the cause.

He found the bushing around the firing pin is bulging out. He showed me several other Smith revolvers and how the bushing sits flush with the frame. On my gun, you can run your finger over the bushing and feel that the bushing is in fact protruding or bulging out from the frame. This is causing the bushing to rub against the brass of the cartridges and this is causing my binding problem. He even commented that he was surprised I wasn't having any misfires, because with this problem the firing pin isn't protruding far enough past the bushing to ensure good primer strikes.

He also told me that this problem could be caused by an ejector rod coming unscrewed. As it turns out, my ejector rod just will not stay tight. After a few rounds I actually have to tighten it again. However, today when I took the gun to the range I used a pair of pliers and a rag to tighten the rod, and it stayed tight, yet the problem still occurred. Doesn't seem to me like an ejector rod problem, even though my ejector rod clearly seems to need addressing.

I told him that my research of modern Smith and Wesson revolvers told me that dry-firing was not a problem, and he assured me that dry-firing a Smith was definitely not a problem. And even if it was, it should not have caused this bulged bushing. He said he could fix the problem by taking a fine stone to the bushing to hone it down, but since the gun is so new I would really be better off sending it back to S&W. And if they decide not to warranty it, he could fix it for me in that event.

Okay, so that's all fine and good. But there's something that's nagging at me. I'm a mechanic, and while that doesn't necessarily mean a damned thing when it comes to firearms, it does mean that I have a firm grasp of the physical sciences and of basic physics. I know what happens to various materials under various circumstances, including what happens to different metals of varying hardnesses when you beat on them with a hammer. And I have dry-fired this thing a lot in an effort to smooth the double-action trigger. And when I learned about "marrying" the trigger by pushing on the hammer with the thumb while pulling the trigger in single-action, I did this as well. In fact, I did it more than was recommended.

Additionally, when I went to the range today, the damned thing started binding up on me in double-action as well! Good grief.

Is it possible that I've abused this thing with too much marrying and dry-firing? Has this caused the bulge of the bushing that encases the firing pin? Is this at all a common problem, or at least one that is known well enough that someone here can give me some advice or reassurance? Will S&W fix this free of charge? I've been sheepishly searching the backlogs and it looks like my incident is unique to me. The only posts I can find about S&W revolvers locking up or binding are due to the lock and nothing more.

What say you, oh wise revolver collective?
 

williamd

New member
Do not think you did this. Think you have a factory quality issue. Happens to all companies, even S&W, occasionally and you happen to be the lucky guy. The issue would have arisen at some point in your shooting. S&W has been very good in standing behind their products so I feel sure they will fix it ... maybe a replacement.

I have several Smith revolvers and they are the best! I do not 'marry' trigger/sear. These revolvers are easy to tune. There are books on it! So, I remove the side plate and (carefully) polish/hone/rework springs (seldom replace). Gives access to more than just sear/trigger. You can really make them superb.
 

Kreyzhorse

New member
Call Smith & Wesson. Return the gun and post your results. I've never had an issue with my Smiths, but it is my understanding that Smith will pay for shipping both ways.

Good luck.
 

JollyRoger

New member
About 20 years ago, I bought a S&W 649, back when there was no lock and the firing pin (hammer nose in S&W parlance) was still on the hammer. The hammer nose bushing had been improperly pressed in and was loose and "floating". I never had the binding you are experiencing, but figured it need to be fixed. S&W took care of it, and I got the weapon back with a new bushing pressed in. Much simpler and cheaper to ship a handgun back then, of course.

Quality control issues arise in any manufacturing operation. If it was a Taurus, it would be cause for trashing the manufacturer, of course, but since it is a S&W, well......:rolleyes:
 

Sarge

New member
You didn't cause this by dry-firing.

The firing pin bushing should be a 'permanent install'- done 'for keeps' at the factory and serviced only by the factory or an authorized service center.

I can see how the mentioned defect would affect cylinder rotation, but once rotated and locked, it should not affect SA trigger pull. Just FWIW I have seen similar symptoms from S&W's that had broken trigger pivot studs; you might suggest in your service letter that they check those real well.

Thank you for posting this. It's really kinda sad because for about the first 40 years of my life, "S&W revolver" was a synonym for reliability.
 

Night Watch

New member
:) Let me be the contrarian. I, also, own a beautiful S&W 686; it is one of my favorite backup guns. (I like 'um big!) Everybody's always telling me that it's OK to dry fire whatever their favorite shooting iron happens to be. Me? I'm gentle with women; and I'm gentle with guns; consequently, I never seem to have a problem with either.

Now, I do a lot of regular dry firing practice - everyday as a matter of fact. I'm a pistol instructor; and, it's how I keep my eye and proprioceptive reflexes sharp in order to stay ahead of the pack. (Also, saves me lots and lots of live fire practice with increasingly expensive ammunition!)

Doesn't matter to me how great your personal shooter is. Metal is metal; and, impact is impact. Whenever I dry fire I use expensive A-Zoom snap caps. (I've got two full magazines of them sitting on my desk, right now, as I type; and I'll be using them again, soon.)

As far as I'm concerned, safe is better than sorry. Over time firing pin holes do elongate; breech faces can crack, and firing pins can gall. Me? After more than 50 years of shooting, I've only had a problem like this exactly once; and, it was because of a short trigger bar that caused timing problems on a Glock pistol that ended up by galling the front of the firing pin (and the edge of the FP safety).

For whatever it's worth Smith & Wesson has some of the best customer service in the firearms industry. Why don't you get them involved? I'm sure you'll be glad that you did. ;)

A-Zoom Snap Caps
 

Master Blaster

New member
Call S&W they will send you a prepaid shipping label and they will fix it for free. It will be fixed correctly.

I suspect the hand pin is slightly bent which can be caused by rapid double action dry firing .
 

Wayward_Son

New member
Thanks for the reassurances, fellas.

So exactly how does this process work? Is it just that easy, Master Blaster? Call S&W, tell them the problem over the phone, they send me a shipping label, and then what? What precise steps do I need to take?

I'd like to restate that I love this gun, regardless of this defect. Since this is apparently an isolated case, I hope that my case does not cast S&W in a dim light for anyone reading this.
 

KC135

New member
Just call the 800 number in the manual for your gun. They will send a shipping label with instructions. Follow the instructions.
 
S&W will send you a UPS shipping label but don't assume that you can take it to any UPS place and ship it. Call one and see what their procedure is. I live about a quarter of a mile from a UPS store but I have to drive 13 miles to a Hub to get it shipped. Then they deliver it back to my door???????? Makes no sense.
 

Stainz

New member
I believe they will pick it up at your door... it certainly comes back there - with 'SAW' on it, so no one knows what is in the box. They have had a 'lifetime warranty' for a while - not just for ' brand new' problems. Great folks. Let them fix it.

Oh - the letter says no insurance necessary - if they lose your revolver, they have more!

Stainz
 
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