S&W 66 cylinder stop binding/dragging

[10 Spot Terminator]

I have a S&W 66 Combat Magnum 4 in. that has somewhere close to 300 rds. fired through it and here is my dillemma . I recently had a lighter hammer and return spring installed and since then have been getting the shiney ring on the cylinder from the cylinder stop lug . Worse than that if you try to gently squeeze off some rounds in double action the cylinder will frequently lock up against the stop lug . One fella I talked to said you can cure this by taking out the hammer stop . I know just enough about revolvers to keep the barrel pointed away from myself . Any insight from those of you who are savvy revolver gurus would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Tom2]

Who did the work on the revolver? Sounds like perhaps it was bungled. Take it back to the gunsmith that did it. It was a gunsmith wasn't it? Do not accept anything except completely correct function after a gun repair. Whoever is advising you is having some fun at your expense, it sounds like. If you started with a gun that worked perfectly, you better demand it stay that way. I have replaced some springs in revolvers and it did not result in anything like that. IF the springs are too light you will either experience weak trigger return or misfires from weak mainspring. Something else was done.

 

[James K]

I know a bit about S&W actions, and I can't really imagine the situation you are talking about, or how lighter hammer and rebound springs can affect the cylinder stop (unless the trigger is not engaging the stop). It sounds like the "gunsmith" got something together wrong, or messed around with something else. Definitely take it back and insist it be fixed immediately. No correction work should wait its turn.

Jim

 

[Dfariswheel]

For one thing ALL S&W revolvers get the shiny ring from the cylinder locking bolt.
The S&W is designed to allow the locking bolt to ride on the cylinder and that very quickly wears a ring on the cylinder.
This is totally normal and necessary.

As above, I'm not sure what you mean by the cylinder locking up on the "stop lug".
I strongly suspect the gunsmith botched something up.

 

[10 Spot Terminator]

GOT IT FIGURED OUT !!! Works fine now . The problem wasnt related to the hammer or return spring install at all . Found the tiny little tension spring for the bolt to be too weak to positively set the bolt back keeping it from pulling the cylinder lock lug clear when cocking allowing the cylinder to bind against the bolt. I removed the spring, strectched it ever so slightly, intalled it adding a drop of break free and now is smooth as silk. I can actually hear the bolt click positively into place when slowly drawing the hammer back.

 

[James K]

I am not sure I understand the explanation, but what works works. But any time a spring is weak, it should be replaced. Stretching it is only a temporary fix and it will quickly revert back to where it was before.

Jim

 

[Tuzo]

The part you are referring to is a cylinder stop and the portion that engages the cylinder is the ball. If the small spring that applies stress to the cylinder stop is missing or broken the cylinder will either rotate freely or lock up. Replacing the spring (model 66 part #7055) is a good idea. Contact either S&W or Gun Parts (aka Numrich) for the replacement.

Source: The S&W Revolver, A Shop Manual, J. Kuhnhausen

 

[10 Spot Terminator]

Thanks Tuzo !
Think I will go on line and try to find that book . Had no referrences to to get the correct name for the parts I was trying to describe . Thanks for the part# of that spring as well . I will get one right away for a back up if I get even a hint of trouble returning I wont have any downtime on my piece . I appreciate everyone else that tried to help as well .

10 SPOT