S&W .38 Mod 10

Hdonly

New member
Anyone buy one of the Mod 10's without barrels thay J&G Sales has? I'm thinking about it as I have a 4" mod 10 barrel laying around.
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Jim Watson

New member
I have read of them being rebarrelled. A matter of luck for a barrel to screw in with the sight vertical and a reasonable gap. "Some fitting required."
It looks like it was a 2", if so, it will need an extractor rod and centerpin to go with a 4" barrel.
 

Clemson

New member
I bought two of them. I was able to fit a 2" Numrich barrel to one, but they have since run out of those barrels. I put a 4" on the other, and as was noted by a previous poster, changed out the center pin and ejector rod. Both made up into sound, mechanically good revolvers. They are not cosmetically anything to write home about. There is heavy stamping on the bottom of the frame in front of the guard from the agency that used them in (I think) South America. Use a proper frame wrench (and not a hammer handle through the frame window) to tighten up the barrel.

Bill Jacobs
 

Hdonly

New member
Found a longer center pin and ejector rod. Think I'll go ahead and order one. I have my homemade frame brace and barrel wrench I made when I R&R'd the barrel in my old pre-model 10. Thanks for the replies.
 

Hdonly

New member
The barrel-less Model 10 is on it's way. Dug up the barrel out of my "stuff". The bore looks brand new. It has been cut off and re-crowned. I found this sight for a Ruger Single Six that should work nice for this little project. Will report back after the first round has left the barrel.

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Hdonly

New member
Update: arrrghh! The ejector rod I got off ebay is RH thread. I got the barreless gun. It is a 10-6 LH ejector rod. The center pin I got is shorter. Ebay is sho nuff "Pot Luck". You never know what you might get sometimes. The search for parts is still on. Looking for a 2" barrel while I'm at it. I'll go with whatever parts I find first. And if I end up with this 3" barrel, I have a little lathe work to do. It gets tight at 180 degrees out from where it needs to be.
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Oh gawd! I had an old victory model and had to make a new cylinder center pin. The original was JB Welded up to length and so a new one had to be turned on the lathe. I learned that when I went to file the top to smooth it out. Too much came off with one pass of a fine tooth file.

Good luck in getting that longer ejector rod. Keep shopping.
 

Hdonly

New member
I'm thinking if I don't find the one I need, I may do some small cut and welding work and make one out of the two. Still will need the longer ejector rod. As Rosanne Rosanna Danna used to say "It's always somthin'".
 

Hdonly

New member
New question. Can anyone tell me the difference between an "old style" centerpin and a "new style" centerpin and which one a Model 10-6 uses? I found an "old style" but don't want to buy it till I know. Thanks
 

Hdonly

New member
Well, I guess I got lucky. I found the correct extractor rod. Now if the centerpin I ordered is correct this time, I will be in business.
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Hdonly

New member
Dang. Looks like the new style extractor rod is correct. Guess what? I ordered the old style center pin. It works perfectly. The other cebter pin I got was a Victory. Why is that different than an old style center pin? I have no idea. What the heck. All I lack is a little time on my lathe and drilling and tapping for the Ruger front sight. Dang!!!!
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Hdonly

New member
Lathe work done. Barrel is in. Got slowed down by some tractor projects I have going on. Retired life is tough-haha Now on to the front sight.
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